Corally SP12M - 1:12th Ahoniemi Euros Spec
08-09-2005, 08:43 PM
#31
Set Up "Out Of the Box"
Originally Posted by alien too
Can someone at Corally post a setup sheet in SP12M Ahoniemi Euros Spec section on how the car is setup out of the box -> "Basic setup"
This would help some of us get reference of where to start.
Also a tire reference.
This would help some of us get reference of where to start.
Also a tire reference.
The only modification made was I added 1 degree caster and switched from the 48p spur to 64p. I have also experimented with Gold Front & Rear tires with very good results... and I have read others have had good success with a Silver/Silver tire combo.
When I put it on the track I placed 2nd place out of 9 cars the first two weeks. Now all I need to do is concentrate on my driving skills & maybe getting just little more power....
If you are looking for a setup out of the box here's a link to download the manual which shows the "assembly diagram" / setup "out of the box" : http://www.corallyusa.com/2005/cars/SP12M-AE-Manual.pdf
Here's a setup sheet that might help: http://international.corally.com/pdf...wifterbant.pdf
- You can also find more setup's at: www.corally.com
Hope this helps....!
Last edited by tbeardmore; 08-09-2005 at 09:51 PM.
08-16-2005, 11:24 PM
#32
Originally Posted by Corally Man
As far as tires go for carpet racing, silver or purple on the front. On the rear... silvers work great for stock racing, for mod, pink or gold. As it was previously mentioned, how you apply your traction compound makes a big deal.
Switching to the optional front beam works great for carpet racing because it acts as a sway bar. This frees up the front end, prevents rolling and can make it easier to drive.
I gotta say, one of the highlights of corally 12th scale cars is adjusting ride height. In less than a couple of minutes you can have all four corners of the car done. This is so beneficial in tech. If you fail front ride height, you can solve it on the spot. A typical north american car would have to go back to the pits and most likely miss the race.
Although these items seem to rarely break, it is a good idea to have the following spare parts in your box...t-plate, body posts, steering blocks, left and right rear wheel plates.
Switching to the optional front beam works great for carpet racing because it acts as a sway bar. This frees up the front end, prevents rolling and can make it easier to drive.
I gotta say, one of the highlights of corally 12th scale cars is adjusting ride height. In less than a couple of minutes you can have all four corners of the car done. This is so beneficial in tech. If you fail front ride height, you can solve it on the spot. A typical north american car would have to go back to the pits and most likely miss the race.
Although these items seem to rarely break, it is a good idea to have the following spare parts in your box...t-plate, body posts, steering blocks, left and right rear wheel plates.
Also, I'm confused as to which steering blocks I need to buy, I see on the parts list that there are some with and some without bearings. Lastly which t-bar do I need? I'm assuming it's the soft fiberglass one but want to make sure.
Thanks for any help,
Ike
11-21-2005, 03:46 PM
#33
Hi all ,
If someone could give me a run down of how to set-up the front springs i'd really appreciate it.
Sounds a silly question i know but i'd just like it confirming,
like do you set the front ride height in any way by adjusting the spring tension or do you just wind down the upper part till it just barely touches the spring with no tension ? ?
And if you do indeed add in pre load how do you know how much , is it like a suck it and see thing ??
Thanks guys
If someone could give me a run down of how to set-up the front springs i'd really appreciate it.
Sounds a silly question i know but i'd just like it confirming,
like do you set the front ride height in any way by adjusting the spring tension or do you just wind down the upper part till it just barely touches the spring with no tension ? ?
And if you do indeed add in pre load how do you know how much , is it like a suck it and see thing ??
Thanks guys
11-22-2005, 12:27 AM
#35
No , you can buy the wheels seperately and glue on whatever tires you like.
11-22-2005, 02:01 AM
#36
Tech Master
You have to use Corally Wheels, what ever tyres you can get on these wheels is obviously up to you.
As for springs, no you don't really use the springs to set ride height, it is a bit of suck it and see. We tend to measure from the bottom of the chassis to the top of the adjustment nut. This does depend on which pivot balls you have as to what the measurement will be. Personally i run the short balls at the front (As Euros kit std) and use in the region of 21-21.5mm betwen chassis and nut.
As for springs, no you don't really use the springs to set ride height, it is a bit of suck it and see. We tend to measure from the bottom of the chassis to the top of the adjustment nut. This does depend on which pivot balls you have as to what the measurement will be. Personally i run the short balls at the front (As Euros kit std) and use in the region of 21-21.5mm betwen chassis and nut.
11-22-2005, 08:06 AM
#37
Originally Posted by MattW
You have to use Corally Wheels, what ever tyres you can get on these wheels is obviously up to you.
As for springs, no you don't really use the springs to set ride height, it is a bit of suck it and see. We tend to measure from the bottom of the chassis to the top of the adjustment nut. This does depend on which pivot balls you have as to what the measurement will be. Personally i run the short balls at the front (As Euros kit std) and use in the region of 21-21.5mm betwen chassis and nut.
As for springs, no you don't really use the springs to set ride height, it is a bit of suck it and see. We tend to measure from the bottom of the chassis to the top of the adjustment nut. This does depend on which pivot balls you have as to what the measurement will be. Personally i run the short balls at the front (As Euros kit std) and use in the region of 21-21.5mm betwen chassis and nut.
Set it up the best i thought last night. Basicly i took off the link between the two sides set the spring adjustment nuts to be just touching the springs. Then with the rear suspended just off the ground and the damper tubes off , adjusted the front spring tension so that when i lifted the front , both wheels left the ground together (like tradional tweak setting).
Then i replaced the center link and set the rear tweak as normal.
Well what i was really trying to get to is that after all the above the distance from the bottom of the chassis to the top of the adjustment nut is 21.5mm
12-04-2005, 12:12 PM
#39
Tech Master
Unless they have changed the spec - No.
Makes the back of the car more stable
Makes the back of the car more stable
12-26-2005, 05:24 PM
#40
i have my euros kit and recieved some parts i talked to a few people i know and seems to me the car is really hooked up right out of the box just need pink rears and purple fronts. my 2 cents 
01-06-2006, 08:25 PM
#41
Corally racers
Good to see that there are so many SP 12 people out there. I want to answer alot of the questions, but so many. To all that are new to the game, new to Corally, welcome, you have the best damn 12th period. Everything else out there is just a rip off Associated 12L. I think the reason more are not on the Corally wagon, is the non availability of parts in thier local hobby shops, but with the internet, well that is solved. The guys down in Florida, at Corally USA, Superior Hobbies, sorry guys I forgot names, they are great. I have ordered several thing as late, all intact, nothing forgot, and any questions answered. I guess all I would have to add is this, everyone has a different style, you have to find what works. The car has a great deal of turn in and turn off ability, more on the turn in, you can flip a 12sp with a blink. I have had 3 versions of the 12 over the last almost 20 years, graphite, aluminum, 6 cell, 4 cell, yes there is a battery extention set up for the SP 12 M to run 6 cell , and I have found that for me I use the following.
Gold fronts, Silver rears, strange huh, med springs ( 2.5 - 3 turns in from primary tention )graphite front end nutural caster block, no mid shock, med to hard syurp in the ballons, ( old car has 2 springs on slipper plates, new car has one, if you have the nut not the clip, tighten to atleast flush). Make sure your diff is clean, assembled right, sand one side of the drive rings and make sure that they face the clean o rings not the diff balls, very little diif lube on the balls! Last, I have never even seen a tweak screw in a Corally, is there such a thing, must be an Associated or a clone of one. People, this car is simple, really!I use about 1/4 to 1/3 of the inside of the front tire, and all of the rear in Jack The Gripper, or TC1, the later I find better. Get the ride hight as low as possible without the chassis scraping, with the front end just slightly higher than the rear.
Tips!!! I really think the Ahoniemi Euro is not needed, reason, those pesky side damper tubes, a Trinity or Associated copy, the Corally really does not need them, it already had a liquid damper, and the least restricted rear end in the business, why change a great thing for a fad, well all the rest of the 12th's needed the liquid dampers, to keep up to Corally. They are just a magnet for carpet dust and furries, balloons don't get that, just ask my buddy with his CRC, every heat. If you can go back to the old school balloons, try it, you won't regret it. Also, when you get home after racing, store the car upside down, syrup goes back on top, rear end stays smooth though out your next race night. As for the front, if you have an old Corral aluminum front end try that to, I think it works better that the GPR / Graphite one, if you do not have one, you can order it, or try this, take out the rear set of ball mounts, the ones right by the servo, but if you do this you have to put in a second set of screws between the GPR and the graphite, you can see the hole they can go though, this will free the front end up, work more like the original " anti roll bar style " Corral ( memory aluminum ) front end.
Well, that is about it, I think, I hope it helped, I'm tired now, I want to go race, and next time we will talk about the RDX, just kidding.
All of this said, I can't wait for the new 12th coming soon I hear.
TTFN
Peter
Gold fronts, Silver rears, strange huh, med springs ( 2.5 - 3 turns in from primary tention )graphite front end nutural caster block, no mid shock, med to hard syurp in the ballons, ( old car has 2 springs on slipper plates, new car has one, if you have the nut not the clip, tighten to atleast flush). Make sure your diff is clean, assembled right, sand one side of the drive rings and make sure that they face the clean o rings not the diff balls, very little diif lube on the balls! Last, I have never even seen a tweak screw in a Corally, is there such a thing, must be an Associated or a clone of one. People, this car is simple, really!I use about 1/4 to 1/3 of the inside of the front tire, and all of the rear in Jack The Gripper, or TC1, the later I find better. Get the ride hight as low as possible without the chassis scraping, with the front end just slightly higher than the rear.
Tips!!! I really think the Ahoniemi Euro is not needed, reason, those pesky side damper tubes, a Trinity or Associated copy, the Corally really does not need them, it already had a liquid damper, and the least restricted rear end in the business, why change a great thing for a fad, well all the rest of the 12th's needed the liquid dampers, to keep up to Corally. They are just a magnet for carpet dust and furries, balloons don't get that, just ask my buddy with his CRC, every heat. If you can go back to the old school balloons, try it, you won't regret it. Also, when you get home after racing, store the car upside down, syrup goes back on top, rear end stays smooth though out your next race night. As for the front, if you have an old Corral aluminum front end try that to, I think it works better that the GPR / Graphite one, if you do not have one, you can order it, or try this, take out the rear set of ball mounts, the ones right by the servo, but if you do this you have to put in a second set of screws between the GPR and the graphite, you can see the hole they can go though, this will free the front end up, work more like the original " anti roll bar style " Corral ( memory aluminum ) front end.
Well, that is about it, I think, I hope it helped, I'm tired now, I want to go race, and next time we will talk about the RDX, just kidding.
All of this said, I can't wait for the new 12th coming soon I hear.
TTFN
Peter
01-07-2006, 03:15 AM
#42
Hi superjet701 ,
Great to see someone on here trying to help that would appear to know a fair bit about the Corally 1/12th's.
I've been using Associated clone's of one form or another until very recently when i purchased the "Ahoniemi Euro" edition. As such i have no reference to the older model's and the revisions that have taken place,YOUR post is also the first i've heard of a "new car" ?? pray tell more (although i'm alittle upset having only got my corally in december)
You mention the "ballon" rear damper ?? and older beam front end , can you shed any more light on what these option's are and why i would want to be using them over whatever's on the Ahoniemi Euro ??
I am aware that a wider rear axel is available and was thinking that this would be worth getting a hold of. Also i know where i can get a beam for the front that is also to the maximium width which seemed possibly a good idea although i have no idea about the beam set-up and installing a huge front anti-roll bar dosen't sound like a good idea to me
So far i have only really been running the Ahoniemi Euro as it comes with the exception's that i use Pink rear tires and hard damper syrup(modified with a 9t Orion V motor) and have found it to be a very easy car a drive although maybe alittle too understeery ?! which from what you've been saying seems weird ??
Anyway if you can spare the time to go through what all the different option's are and what they do that'd help me no end and i'd also be very greatful for any information on how to PROPERLY set-up my Ahoniemi Euro car with detailed description's on the front end as it's very different to the associated cars i've used in the past.
Thanks so very much
Rod
Great to see someone on here trying to help that would appear to know a fair bit about the Corally 1/12th's.
I've been using Associated clone's of one form or another until very recently when i purchased the "Ahoniemi Euro" edition. As such i have no reference to the older model's and the revisions that have taken place,YOUR post is also the first i've heard of a "new car" ?? pray tell more (although i'm alittle upset having only got my corally in december)
You mention the "ballon" rear damper ?? and older beam front end , can you shed any more light on what these option's are and why i would want to be using them over whatever's on the Ahoniemi Euro ??
I am aware that a wider rear axel is available and was thinking that this would be worth getting a hold of. Also i know where i can get a beam for the front that is also to the maximium width which seemed possibly a good idea although i have no idea about the beam set-up and installing a huge front anti-roll bar dosen't sound like a good idea to me
So far i have only really been running the Ahoniemi Euro as it comes with the exception's that i use Pink rear tires and hard damper syrup(modified with a 9t Orion V motor) and have found it to be a very easy car a drive although maybe alittle too understeery ?! which from what you've been saying seems weird ??
Anyway if you can spare the time to go through what all the different option's are and what they do that'd help me no end and i'd also be very greatful for any information on how to PROPERLY set-up my Ahoniemi Euro car with detailed description's on the front end as it's very different to the associated cars i've used in the past.
Thanks so very much
Rod
01-07-2006, 10:06 AM
#43
The Ahoniemi and the old school
Thank you Rod. First, don't be upset, any Corally is a good Corally, and like I said, it all comes down to your driving style, and horsepower. I race stock at home, most tracks are of a stock class, or 19t, which I find very little difference in set up.
Ok, first the sp12ma, a for Ahoniemi, is just a special version of the sp12m, from what I have gathered, a Euro world's version prototype for the Ahoniemi brothers to race. I see that everyone else started this open tube damper thing to get where Corally is, but public perception would be, if you see a Trinity win at say Cleavland with this new set up, wow if I don't have that I'm not going to win, hence Corally followed with the sp12ma, it is a sales thing.
If you go to the Corally USA site, click products, then car kits, then sp12m kit info, you will see two " buy now " one for the sp12ma, and one for the sp12m pan, click the pan one and it will bring up a pic of the "balloon car" you will see the difference.
This car has been winning for years, mostly Europe, reason, Associated dominance in the $$$ bracket, good racers, back in the day, Joel Johnson was the man, Trinity, but you could put a bucket on wheels and he would win, but he liked Corally, they were just to small to afford that. Racing at that level is all about their skill, Hara, Tossollini, Baker, all the best could switch cars in a moment, give them a couple of hours, and you wouldn't know they have switched, but that is not what the manufactures want you to think, it's thier cars.
Ok, back to the balloon. Like the tube damper it is there to reduce rebound bounce, which is not good in a 12th weighing a couple of pounds, going 35 mph, it get the back end nervous and hence to front end pointy. The balloon has two slipper plate around the top pod plate, with springs for pressure, just like a 12L, only it has " balloons" covering them and syrup inside to dampen the slipping motion. Now you said your car seemed to be " understreery" well a few things on that.
1) diff is to tight, or you have a bad ball or pitted ring, but considering your kit is new, I would go with tight. Corally diff is very different, a very little turn make a big change, and you go by spinning the diff to feel and see the opposite rotation in the diff, well you can tighten it till you can't any more, and you should still have rotation, not the way to check, an Associated yes, not this one. You have to hold both rear wheels and push the spur, should be hard to move but not leaving big impressions in your thumb, you will get use to that.
2) I'm not familiar with the " magenta family" of tires you know what I have been using, but you may be on to soft of a rear, major hook up, pushing front.
3) To hard of a front, to hard of a spring in the front, or to much preload on the front springs.
I find this in my cars, I have about 75% streering and that is just to get out of tight situations, I'm not a lock to lock kind of driver. Not that I'm paying close attention but i think I use about 50% of my total usable streering, not much, and if I put on to much front tire bite, FLIP , she is on the antenea. As for changing to the Corral ( memory aluminum ) one piece front end, I would not tell you it is a must, but you can try it, order it, find it on eBay, whatever, I like it, it works, I think better that the graphite/GRP front end, better antiroll, without sacrificing suspension travel.
4) horsepower, modified needs more sacrafice, in suspension, diff, and driving. More travel, more slip, more roll on throttle, more steering input.
The last thing is the wider wheel stance, I don't now much about that at all, but I think it could be for outdoor use, but I would not bother, the car is great the way it is, you just have to find your sweet spot with it.
Good Luck, I hope this helped.
Peter
Ok, first the sp12ma, a for Ahoniemi, is just a special version of the sp12m, from what I have gathered, a Euro world's version prototype for the Ahoniemi brothers to race. I see that everyone else started this open tube damper thing to get where Corally is, but public perception would be, if you see a Trinity win at say Cleavland with this new set up, wow if I don't have that I'm not going to win, hence Corally followed with the sp12ma, it is a sales thing.
If you go to the Corally USA site, click products, then car kits, then sp12m kit info, you will see two " buy now " one for the sp12ma, and one for the sp12m pan, click the pan one and it will bring up a pic of the "balloon car" you will see the difference.
This car has been winning for years, mostly Europe, reason, Associated dominance in the $$$ bracket, good racers, back in the day, Joel Johnson was the man, Trinity, but you could put a bucket on wheels and he would win, but he liked Corally, they were just to small to afford that. Racing at that level is all about their skill, Hara, Tossollini, Baker, all the best could switch cars in a moment, give them a couple of hours, and you wouldn't know they have switched, but that is not what the manufactures want you to think, it's thier cars.
Ok, back to the balloon. Like the tube damper it is there to reduce rebound bounce, which is not good in a 12th weighing a couple of pounds, going 35 mph, it get the back end nervous and hence to front end pointy. The balloon has two slipper plate around the top pod plate, with springs for pressure, just like a 12L, only it has " balloons" covering them and syrup inside to dampen the slipping motion. Now you said your car seemed to be " understreery" well a few things on that.
1) diff is to tight, or you have a bad ball or pitted ring, but considering your kit is new, I would go with tight. Corally diff is very different, a very little turn make a big change, and you go by spinning the diff to feel and see the opposite rotation in the diff, well you can tighten it till you can't any more, and you should still have rotation, not the way to check, an Associated yes, not this one. You have to hold both rear wheels and push the spur, should be hard to move but not leaving big impressions in your thumb, you will get use to that.
2) I'm not familiar with the " magenta family" of tires you know what I have been using, but you may be on to soft of a rear, major hook up, pushing front.
3) To hard of a front, to hard of a spring in the front, or to much preload on the front springs.
I find this in my cars, I have about 75% streering and that is just to get out of tight situations, I'm not a lock to lock kind of driver. Not that I'm paying close attention but i think I use about 50% of my total usable streering, not much, and if I put on to much front tire bite, FLIP , she is on the antenea. As for changing to the Corral ( memory aluminum ) one piece front end, I would not tell you it is a must, but you can try it, order it, find it on eBay, whatever, I like it, it works, I think better that the graphite/GRP front end, better antiroll, without sacrificing suspension travel.
4) horsepower, modified needs more sacrafice, in suspension, diff, and driving. More travel, more slip, more roll on throttle, more steering input.
The last thing is the wider wheel stance, I don't now much about that at all, but I think it could be for outdoor use, but I would not bother, the car is great the way it is, you just have to find your sweet spot with it.
Good Luck, I hope this helped.
Peter
01-07-2006, 11:48 AM
#44
Tech Master
Well, i have run an origional 12M (baloon) and did test a beam front end on it, and frankly i wouldn't even dream of going back to either, for my money the Euros car is a much better all round car.
The beam just gave less steering, was ok on really high grip tracks - in fact quite good, but not a lot of use otherwise.
The old back end is ok, i made a few national A finals running it, but it just didn't feel as good. It was best with the carbon T bar, but then this didn't work on bumpy tracks. The other issue is that you can't control bump and side damping independantly. Think it was probably even "easier" than the tube rear end, the car was probably safer on certain really flat tracks, the tube was defenetly more responsive.
The beam just gave less steering, was ok on really high grip tracks - in fact quite good, but not a lot of use otherwise.
The old back end is ok, i made a few national A finals running it, but it just didn't feel as good. It was best with the carbon T bar, but then this didn't work on bumpy tracks. The other issue is that you can't control bump and side damping independantly. Think it was probably even "easier" than the tube rear end, the car was probably safer on certain really flat tracks, the tube was defenetly more responsive.
01-07-2006, 06:20 PM
#45
toso does run corally 12th scale