Corally SP12M - 1:12th Ahoniemi Euros Spec
07-04-2005, 02:58 PM
#16
Tech Master
The tweek screws are different to on AE cars, but in principle they work the same as it presureises the small tweak plate.
Front camber isn't really adjustable, which can sometimes be a little bit of a problem.
Ride height it straight forward to adjust, caster is altered by putting washers under the front pivot ball.
It's an easy car to work with, i don't tend to find myself altering much on the car at all.
Front camber isn't really adjustable, which can sometimes be a little bit of a problem.
Ride height it straight forward to adjust, caster is altered by putting washers under the front pivot ball.
It's an easy car to work with, i don't tend to find myself altering much on the car at all.
07-06-2005, 12:30 PM
#17
Originally Posted by Lowrance
Thanks guys...I'm looking into a car right now but the closest dealer is some 60 miles away. I just feel more comfortable if Corally USA would update their online store.
What kind of spares would I need to keep on hand...what breaks or wears out?
What kind of spares would I need to keep on hand...what breaks or wears out?
Once completed the site will have a parts list for each car in which you will be able to add items to the cart and then do a final checkout to place the order.
If you have any other questions please call us or email us through our website. Thanks!
07-26-2005, 09:19 AM
#18
As far as tires go for carpet racing, silver or purple on the front. On the rear... silvers work great for stock racing, for mod, pink or gold. As it was previously mentioned, how you apply your traction compound makes a big deal.
Switching to the optional front beam works great for carpet racing because it acts as a sway bar. This frees up the front end, prevents rolling and can make it easier to drive.
I gotta say, one of the highlights of corally 12th scale cars is adjusting ride height. In less than a couple of minutes you can have all four corners of the car done. This is so beneficial in tech. If you fail front ride height, you can solve it on the spot. A typical north american car would have to go back to the pits and most likely miss the race.
Although these items seem to rarely break, it is a good idea to have the following spare parts in your box...t-plate, body posts, steering blocks, left and right rear wheel plates.
Switching to the optional front beam works great for carpet racing because it acts as a sway bar. This frees up the front end, prevents rolling and can make it easier to drive.
I gotta say, one of the highlights of corally 12th scale cars is adjusting ride height. In less than a couple of minutes you can have all four corners of the car done. This is so beneficial in tech. If you fail front ride height, you can solve it on the spot. A typical north american car would have to go back to the pits and most likely miss the race.
Although these items seem to rarely break, it is a good idea to have the following spare parts in your box...t-plate, body posts, steering blocks, left and right rear wheel plates.
07-27-2005, 07:15 PM
#19
Originally Posted by Lowrance
Interesting car....wondering who sells them and what about parts availibility. I see nothing current on CorallyUSA''s online e-shop....like their pimpin 3000mah sanyo cells and assassins 
Jeff
08-05-2005, 01:43 PM
#20
tires
Could someone give me a corally 1/12 scale tire lesson? And how they relate to jaco or trc.
Also is possible to retrofit Ahoniemi euro spec kit with a six cell chassis?
Also is possible to retrofit Ahoniemi euro spec kit with a six cell chassis?
08-05-2005, 02:23 PM
#21
Tech Master
Well, In the UK the Jaco guys usually run Purple/Grey. The corally equivelent is usually silver fronts and gold rears.
Silvers are harder than Golds, but personally i usually run Silvers all round. It's worth noting that a silver rear tyre isn't the same compound as a silver front.
Usually if you want to go softer fronts, then Silver stars are basically the same type of rubber, but softer. I believe gold fronts are a slightly different rubber, and gold stars are again softer.
I believe corally green rears are the same as Jaco greens. I believe Corally Pinks are very similar to Jaco Pinks.
Silvers are harder than Golds, but personally i usually run Silvers all round. It's worth noting that a silver rear tyre isn't the same compound as a silver front.
Usually if you want to go softer fronts, then Silver stars are basically the same type of rubber, but softer. I believe gold fronts are a slightly different rubber, and gold stars are again softer.
I believe corally green rears are the same as Jaco greens. I believe Corally Pinks are very similar to Jaco Pinks.
08-06-2005, 08:59 PM
#22
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
What exactly does this front wishbone connector do on my new Ahoniemi Euro spec car. The way its designed, you really can't call it a sway bar...if anything is a really stiff spring....why have coil springs on the front if their rendered inactive by this thick fiberglass plate that connects the wishbones together. Surely I missing something....the rest of the car looks great.
08-07-2005, 12:41 PM
#23
Tech Adept
Front Swaybar Questions
I don't have the Ahoniemi Spec chassis but have the earlier model. I had the same questions about the front link and it's effectiveness as a rollbar sinc the arms do not pivot parallel to the centerline of the car. This link just seems to stiffen the springs and not let the chassis roll at all. I came up with a solution that will allow the springs to be springs and the rollbar to be a roll bar. I am in the process of testing its effectiveness as a roll solution and testing different rate springs as well. Here's a pic of the mod...
08-07-2005, 02:07 PM
#24
Tech Master
Yeah i see what you mean, it is a spring, and a roll bar!! Diferent stiffness connectors to make a difference to the handelling of the cars. At the risk of stating the obvious!!!!
Personally i usually run the thin Graphite piece, instead of the thick GRP one that the Euros kit comes with. This gives it a touch more steering, as it is slightly softer.
Personally i usually run the thin Graphite piece, instead of the thick GRP one that the Euros kit comes with. This gives it a touch more steering, as it is slightly softer.
08-07-2005, 04:03 PM
#26
Tech Adept
Front Swaybar
As you can see it is in-fact a blade style swaybar...I race Serpent 1/10 and 1/8 On-Road Nitro and had a couple of spares handy to try. I fabricated the brackets on a mill using 7075-T6 Aluminum and farbicated the lower arms from .100 7075-T6. The car came with what I think are super soft front springs so I am starting out with the Medium and then I will test the Hard. Since this actually segregates the two actions testing is the only way to get the conclusion. Incidently I am running this car outdoor with ultra-high grip in most cases. 
08-08-2005, 06:25 PM
#27
Are silverstar fronts the hardest?
Where do purple fronts fit in harder or softer than silverstar?
Where do purple fronts fit in harder or softer than silverstar?
08-09-2005, 10:19 AM
#28
Tech Master
Silver stars are softer than silvers. Suspect Purples are harder than silver stars
08-09-2005, 06:54 PM
#29
hello guys i have a 12l4 or something like that. i dont realy know what i have ,It was a trade.the guy that i traded with set the track record and it has a broken rear chassis. im looking for help with it to find out what i have?
also it would be cool to find out if i should go total L4 or leave it the way it is!
it has a spring loaded t-plate. meaning it has the ceter pivot with a spring on each side of the pivot that the shock connects the chassis from rear to front.
it has the hardwear of the L4 and the chassis of a L3 but dont know how to tune the t-plate springs and shock. it also has two twick screws on the outer side of the springs of the t-bar.
my set up is black spring on shock and black springs on the t-plate and im going to the .02 springs front and everything else that you do on the l4 like the pink rear tires and the front purple tires with the 5 blocks and the shimes on each side!
if there is anyway to let me know what prings to run on the rear or what system this is or who could tell me somehting fill free to email me! and i will give you my # or call you!
also it would be cool to find out if i should go total L4 or leave it the way it is!
it has a spring loaded t-plate. meaning it has the ceter pivot with a spring on each side of the pivot that the shock connects the chassis from rear to front.
it has the hardwear of the L4 and the chassis of a L3 but dont know how to tune the t-plate springs and shock. it also has two twick screws on the outer side of the springs of the t-bar.
my set up is black spring on shock and black springs on the t-plate and im going to the .02 springs front and everything else that you do on the l4 like the pink rear tires and the front purple tires with the 5 blocks and the shimes on each side!
if there is anyway to let me know what prings to run on the rear or what system this is or who could tell me somehting fill free to email me! and i will give you my # or call you!
08-09-2005, 07:40 PM
#30
setup
Can someone at Corally post a setup sheet in SP12M Ahoniemi Euros Spec section on how the car is setup out of the box -> "Basic setup"
This would help some of us get reference of where to start.
Also a tire reference.
This would help some of us get reference of where to start.
Also a tire reference.