nitro2be

iTrader: (1)

Exotek already have holes so just put a zip tie through hole and up and over spring. Try it you'll figure it out.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...thread-72.html

bottom of page left photo of my mbx7r you can see zip tie on spring

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

I just picked up one , got it put together last week and ran it some for the first time this weekend. I don't care if a new car comes out tomorrow , the current car is good for me . I have had a dex410 , xb4 , and a 22-4 . In my hands , only the xray would finish a race night . The dex410 was the single fast lap beast for me , but I couldn't run consistent. The 22-4 was my favorite car to drive , something about the layout , belts, and ball diffs just made it so smooth. I broke the Losi every time I raced it . Every single race I had to go buy or find a part and fix it . So , D413 ... I set it up with a novak pulse esc , a tekin 6.5t , and a stoopid large savox esc out of my sc truck in the shorty configuration. The guy I bought it from ran it indoors , and that's the set up that was on it when I went to my track, which is a large 1/8 track. Car was a trip to say the least. I know what guys mean when they say you can push with this car . You can really drive well over your limit and get away with it . The car (at least mine) didn't really spin much when I over did it . It would settle down when I let off . It jumps a bit high right now , but that will change too when I change the suspension around . Took a few pipes at high speeds , and at least 5 big tumbles on the triple and didn't break a single thing . I never popped a shock cap , or a spring perch , or a ball stud . Nothing , nada , zip . To sum it up , I think its safe to say you will be getting a car that has a bit more "snap" than the belt cars . It will probably not be the fastest laps you have ever run coming from a k1 , but I bet your overall and your differential will drop with this car. Your parts bill will go down , and your dnf's ( if you ever had them in the past ) will be less . I know its a little wordy , but hey, I aint got squat to do right now but type up and hype up this car. I had a blast the first time out with mine ....

Dan.J

iTrader: (21)

^^^^Nice! Getting ready to get mine together.....thanks for the little push to get going on it

tom2tone

iTrader: (99)

Thanks for the info!

AJrollin

iTrader: (3)

Nice write up! Yea I had a 22-4, loved it, but broke very easily so I got rid of it and got the Schumacher K1 which drives as good but way tougher, always liked belt drive cars. I ordered my D413 today, this will be my first shaft drive wheeler. This car is very popular so I feel confident and am quite excited to get it going.

Thanks

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

Guys running outdoors on dusty tracks , I'm starting to run the car a bit more and I notice that when I crack the throttle real good from a slow corner or a dead stop the car steps sideways enough that I have to correct for it . I'm on good tires , has anyone else dealt with this ? The drive train is 100% and the wheels are not on too tight . 10/100/10

skyline1015

iTrader: (149)

100 in the center dif may be to much. trying going to 60k or 50k to allow the front to pull you through the turns. i had the same issue when our track was dusty and low traction.

kenny lutz

iTrader: (38)

Try to go to 7 or 5 in the rear as that should help you issue that your having.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

If the XB4 is the only car that wouldn't break it points to overzealous driving.

Too often these toy cars get bad raps for their durability or perceived lack there of when in fact that isn't the case. I ran my 410 for 2 years and it was easily the most stable car and though many people complained that it wasn't durable, initially for me it was quite durable. However, once I "thought" I was ready to push the envelope and test both the limits of my ability and the car I started snapping arms. Though I went through several front arms at one point and some were my fault, there was a batch of front arms that were brittle and were the culprit of most of the breaks. Once this was addressed and I got arms from new runs the problem disappeared. Most manufacturers experience this at one time or another and most of them get it sorted out the customer had an enjoyable experience.

Having said that, like many people in the hobby I got the itch to try something new in 4WD and since my experience with he PRS1 was nothing but superb I took a leap and got the SB401 and while it is a bit more durable than most wheelers, it's not necessarily all-around better. Such is the same for any car and the D413 is no different which is why you see some going up for sale from time to time.

Personally what I loved about my DEX410 is the same thing I love with he SB401 which is precision fitment of parts and no "purposely engineered" racing slop that is found in the 413. Perhaps some folks don't like that either and is the reason behind some folks selling them off. It could also be a decline in the class in certain regions so look for location as well because just last week I read a couple of posts where just 2 or 3 and even just single entry fro 2wd & 4wd buggies. I fell victim to this here in South Florida with Stadium Truck a couple years ago and sold mine as I was not happy to own a vehicle who's class may or may not be run once or twice per year.

Getting back to your durability issues, take your time and learn the intricacies of your tracks and then start off slow and steady to learn how the car works in all areas and then watch the fast guys who don't crash and observe their lines and their acceleration and braking points and then try increasing your speed little by little as you try and follow their lines. I guarantee you will find most cars will finish most races if you drive within your limits. We have a plethora of top level drivers here in South Florida and it is difficult for me to make the cut for the A's but I bump up tot eh B and finish mid pack consistently and when I keep my head in the game I can give any of them a run for their money.

Hope this helps.

nitro2be

iTrader: (1)

even 2 or 3 in rear. Read 1st page again Torrance is talking that ty was going lighter and lighter in rear to 3k and even ran 2k at reedy indoor with high traction. I run 7 100 3 and never steps out no matter how hard I drive it. I have to intentionally slide rear if needed.

The step out your talking about? Back end loose or when punched and hooked up its like a dragster heading into the wall? Either way is the rear diff

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

Hooking like a drag car is a good way to visualize it . I think the rear diff is a good start . A local I talk to also mentioned droop being off from 1 side to the other . I did take some droop out of the front of the car last night , and looking back I don't recall measuring both shocks afterwards. Car didn't do it Sunday .

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

I first started outdoors with 7-100-5 and didn't feel right, especially when I was trying a big double or triple. I switched the Center diff out to 80K and felt better.

nitro2be

iTrader: (1)

Yep and it pulls right with the torque. Mine does that too. When I go higher than three on a track with traction and nail the throttle. Cars is bad ass. In a drag car they soften the clutch to solve. We lower rear diff. I'm no pro but that's the way I see it.

Brett C

iTrader: (27)

Got a chance to run this today for the first time at SRS. It's been a little bit since i ran a 1/10 scale and it's my 1st time with a 1/10 4wd. Boy what a treat this car is! But one question i have is...What would cause the rear wheel to come off the ground in a turn? I went with Ty's 2014 nationals set up with the exception of pistons and springs. I used the box stock springs and the 1.4 pistons front and rear.

skyline1015

iTrader: (149)

Most people are running the schelle chassis to fix this issue.