Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy >

Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree66Likes

Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-27-2015, 03:42 PM
  #9781  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 93
Default

Originally Posted by Brett C
Got a chance to run this today for the first time at SRS. It's been a little bit since i ran a 1/10 scale and it's my 1st time with a 1/10 4wd. Boy what a treat this car is! But one question i have is...What would cause the rear wheel to come off the ground in a turn? I went with Ty's 2014 nationals set up with the exception of pistons and springs. I used the box stock springs and the 1.4 pistons front and rear.
Hmm less droop, or thicker sway bars could work. I don't run allot of ride height in mine, and i have the shock ends screwed all the way in to reduce droop.
Apexracing is offline  
Old 08-27-2015, 03:45 PM
  #9782  
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
 
bds81175's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Litchfield, Minnesota
Posts: 2,745
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

I don't necessarily feel that lifting that rear wheel is the end of the world. If you are losing control or your lap times are suffering then I could see it. To me, the situations where the wheel lifts are when the majority of your weight is on the front. You can't even tell that the wheel lifts other than visually. Maybe that's just me.
bds81175 is offline  
Old 08-27-2015, 03:53 PM
  #9783  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (27)
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 134
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by bds81175
I don't necessarily feel that lifting that rear wheel is the end of the world. If you are losing control or your lap times are suffering then I could see it. To me, the situations where the wheel lifts are when the majority of your weight is on the front. You can't even tell that the wheel lifts other than visually. Maybe that's just me.
It didn't seem like it affected my driving nor did it cause me to lose control. My lap times were faster than they've ever been. Granted the 6.5 is bigger than i've ever used but, I my short time rc racing it's the first time i've seen it.
Brett C is offline  
Old 08-27-2015, 03:57 PM
  #9784  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (27)
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 134
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Apexracing
Hmm less droop, or thicker sway bars could work. I don't run allot of ride height in mine, and i have the shock ends screwed all the way in to reduce droop.
I'll give that a try. I think my ride height was 22mm f&r. Copper sway in front and black in rear.
Brett C is offline  
Old 08-27-2015, 09:48 PM
  #9785  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
nitro2be's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Corona CA.
Posts: 544
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Brett C
Got a chance to run this today for the first time at SRS. It's been a little bit since i ran a 1/10 scale and it's my 1st time with a 1/10 4wd. Boy what a treat this car is! But one question i have is...What would cause the rear wheel to come off the ground in a turn? I went with Ty's 2014 nationals set up with the exception of pistons and springs. I used the box stock springs and the 1.4 pistons front and rear.
is your rear sway bar able to move freely. Push down the car to bottom out and see if you can still slide bar side to side. Sounds to tight to me.
nitro2be is offline  
Old 08-27-2015, 10:10 PM
  #9786  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (27)
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 134
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nitro2be
is your rear sway bar able to move freely. Push down the car to bottom out and see if you can still slide bar side to side. Sounds to tight to me.
No it does not. I have those collars tight against the shock tower/diff case. Should i move those collars in a few millimeters?
Brett C is offline  
Old 08-27-2015, 10:47 PM
  #9787  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
nitro2be's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Corona CA.
Posts: 544
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Brett C
No it does not. I have those collars tight against the shock tower/diff case. Should i move those collars in a few millimeters?
yes. You understand , I have about a 1/4 gap between my collars same for front.
nitro2be is offline  
Old 08-28-2015, 01:45 PM
  #9788  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 65
Default

Can someone tell me where the shims go on the front diff pinion ,does it goes in front of the bearing ? A pic will be helpful.

Thanks
Airride is offline  
Old 08-28-2015, 02:49 PM
  #9789  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (27)
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 134
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nitro2be
yes. You understand , I have about a 1/4 gap between my collars same for front.
That was it! Thank you.

Can anyone tell me where to acquire shock ends for the 413. Or does another brand work? Only looking for ends, I don't really want to have to buy shock guards and spring retainers just to get the shock ends.

Last edited by Brett C; 08-28-2015 at 05:00 PM.
Brett C is offline  
Old 08-28-2015, 03:01 PM
  #9790  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
nitro2be's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Corona CA.
Posts: 544
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Airride
Can someone tell me where the shims go on the front diff pinion ,does it goes in front of the bearing ? A pic will be helpful.

Thanks
Lmao. I can't remember but I do remember guessing. I wanna say it does not make a difference. Put it where if it moves gear forward to ring gear.
nitro2be is offline  
Old 08-28-2015, 09:27 PM
  #9791  
Tech Master
iTrader: (65)
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,048
Trader Rating: 65 (100%+)
Default

I cant seem to locate anywhere online where to buy the e-clips used on the bevel gears to lock the bearings in place. The book shows the same part number as the diff shims? Im confused as ive found the diff shims online but no where does it say it comes with those 2 e-clips as well. Anyone have insitght on this would be much appericated.
nrm1977 is offline  
Old 08-28-2015, 09:32 PM
  #9792  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: In a VAN down by the RIVER
Posts: 805
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nrm1977
I cant seem to locate anywhere online where to buy the e-clips used on the bevel gears to lock the bearings in place. The book shows the same part number as the diff shims? Im confused as ive found the diff shims online but no where does it say it comes with those 2 e-clips as well. Anyone have insitght on this would be much appericated.
There are 4 of those clips included with the shim set.
Sofa King is offline  
Old 08-31-2015, 10:51 AM
  #9793  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
13Maschine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,556
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Ball cups?

Don't get me wrong this car is fricking awesome but I guess I'm too OCD to deal with the slop. So for now I've replaced most of the cups with Kyosho ball cups and I'm also using Lunsford Ti 4.8mm Ball Studs. I drilled the Kyosho cups so I can use a ball driver to remove the stud later. For now I have the stock off set ball cups on the outer part of the steering chain as I'm not sure what I can use to replace the stock offset version. Ideas and suggestions welcome! Thanks in advance.
13Maschine is offline  
Old 08-31-2015, 12:07 PM
  #9794  
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
 
Slapjack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,065
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

I am new to 10th scale and I am looking to get into 10th scale racing. I am debating between the D413 and the Xray XB4. I have read that the Xray is a very easy car to drive compared to the team Durango dex410 which is very aggressive and jerky. Anyone here driven both the D413 and the Xray that can give me a comparison? Or even just explain what type of driving I will get with the D413? How is Parts support, Durability and any other advice or suggestions is appreciated. Thank you. I really like how the D413 is designed as far as having a CD and steel diff gears. Seems like a full 8th scale buggy just shrunk down. I have recently been driving in 8th scale class.
Slapjack is offline  
Old 08-31-2015, 01:35 PM
  #9795  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (65)
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 3,073
Trader Rating: 65 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Slapjack
I am new to 10th scale and I am looking to get into 10th scale racing. I am debating between the D413 and the Xray XB4. I have read that the Xray is a very easy car to drive compared to the team Durango dex410 which is very aggressive and jerky. Anyone here driven both the D413 and the Xray that can give me a comparison? Or even just explain what type of driving I will get with the D413? How is Parts support, Durability and any other advice or suggestions is appreciated. Thank you. I really like how the D413 is designed as far as having a CD and steel diff gears. Seems like a full 8th scale buggy just shrunk down. I have recently been driving in 8th scale class.
I owned both. The xray is a great car but it has a really bad tendency for the nose of the car to lawn dart. If you land nose down it'll drill itself into the ground. So I always found myself holding back with that car to prevent the lawn dart. That was the only weak point I found with it.

The d413 is a tank and handles just as well as the xray but I can drive it a lot harder and it's more forgiving in the tough stuff as it has a ton of wheel travel. It can land any way you want and it soaks it up. This ability allows me to turn faster more consistent laps with the d413.
Antimullet is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.