PRC Quad12
01-18-2005, 02:04 PM
#392
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Originally posted by EricF
Clegg,
As a rule (be it time consuming) you should put some CA on a q'tip and spin it around in all of the counter sunk holes. That what I've done on all of CF chassised cars, from 1/12 to sedan.
E
Clegg,
As a rule (be it time consuming) you should put some CA on a q'tip and spin it around in all of the counter sunk holes. That what I've done on all of CF chassised cars, from 1/12 to sedan.
E
01-18-2005, 05:27 PM
#393
Hey Doug
Where can I buy a countersink bit in the area? I tried a standard one but no luck. It was too sharp an angle and the screw did not fit properly
Thanks
Where can I buy a countersink bit in the area? I tried a standard one but no luck. It was too sharp an angle and the screw did not fit properly
Thanks
01-18-2005, 05:41 PM
#394
Originally posted by rinkrat99
Hey Doug
Where can I buy a countersink bit in the area? I tried a standard one but no luck. It was too sharp an angle and the screw did not fit properly
Thanks
Hey Doug
Where can I buy a countersink bit in the area? I tried a standard one but no luck. It was too sharp an angle and the screw did not fit properly
Thanks
Anyway give MSC Industrial Supply off of Evans a call they have alot of bits & cutters in stock.
01-18-2005, 06:35 PM
#395
The early Q12's used 100 deg. 8-32 screws. An 82 deg. countersink is now used for all the holes in the Q12 that require countersinking. That being said, Try MSC or McMaster-Carr for a countersink. Both offer mail order. I would suggest a solid carbide countersink. Carbon Fiber is very abrasive and will dull high speed steel in no time flat!!
E-mail me and I can give you part numbers for the countersinks that I use.
D.P.
E-mail me and I can give you part numbers for the countersinks that I use.
D.P.
01-18-2005, 08:36 PM
#396
No carpet in Tucson. They pulled it up and put in a dirt oval
I think that they have a smaller turn out for the oval than they ever did for the carpet.
We still have a pretty good following at Hobbytown (outdoor med-high grip asphalt) of 6-9 racers twice a week. I keep thinking that I want to go back to a t-bar chassis in stead of the springs on the CRC car that I currently run.
E
I think that they have a smaller turn out for the oval than they ever did for the carpet.We still have a pretty good following at Hobbytown (outdoor med-high grip asphalt) of 6-9 racers twice a week. I keep thinking that I want to go back to a t-bar chassis in stead of the springs on the CRC car that I currently run.
E
01-29-2005, 06:14 AM
#397
t bar is the way to go on asphalt!
01-29-2005, 08:12 AM
#398
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OVerall I am pretty happy with the Quad 12, only the fact that the screws from Associated do not sit right in the chassis is what bugs me. All the Associated Lower A Arm screws sit deep in the counter sinking and has caused both sides to delaminate a bit on hits. Ive replaced them as good as I can with some other big screws I have that seem to fill the counter sinking a bit better, but they are freaking steel screws.
This same issue happens on 2/3 of the screws on the 2.5mm chassis it seems.
I got into a bad accident with the car ( I was hit in a main sending me into a wall on a high speed corner real hard) which snapped the T bar, but also sent the rear pod graphite plate into the main chassis plate so hard the laminate layers punched into one another, and it pretyt much cracked the entire rear plate delaminating the entire lower 2 layers. Now the rear plate I didnt do much prep work on such as sanding and glue'n so I know thats all my fault.
But the thing that concerns me is if I order a new main chassis (to replace the one thats now warped by the front wheels from the Associated screws not being large enough it seems) and hte rear pod plate, will I have all the same issues again? I love the battery hold down for the Quad 12, I think its a great chassis and design. But since I dropped 110$ to have in 3 races both main peices of CF already destroyed makes me wonder if I should buy another set just to have the same thing happen again. Is this a byproduct of what the 2.5mm chassis does instead of flex? would the thinner chassis be more resilient?
I am not the best driver, but the main chasiss delaiminations happened with very minor tap's on the wood on a slow technical road course setup. Thats whats disturbed me the most.
Is it possible the counter sinking on the chassis was a bit heavy on the chassis I got that caused the screws to sit so deep in it?
This same issue happens on 2/3 of the screws on the 2.5mm chassis it seems.
I got into a bad accident with the car ( I was hit in a main sending me into a wall on a high speed corner real hard) which snapped the T bar, but also sent the rear pod graphite plate into the main chassis plate so hard the laminate layers punched into one another, and it pretyt much cracked the entire rear plate delaminating the entire lower 2 layers. Now the rear plate I didnt do much prep work on such as sanding and glue'n so I know thats all my fault.
But the thing that concerns me is if I order a new main chassis (to replace the one thats now warped by the front wheels from the Associated screws not being large enough it seems) and hte rear pod plate, will I have all the same issues again? I love the battery hold down for the Quad 12, I think its a great chassis and design. But since I dropped 110$ to have in 3 races both main peices of CF already destroyed makes me wonder if I should buy another set just to have the same thing happen again. Is this a byproduct of what the 2.5mm chassis does instead of flex? would the thinner chassis be more resilient?
I am not the best driver, but the main chasiss delaiminations happened with very minor tap's on the wood on a slow technical road course setup. Thats whats disturbed me the most.
Is it possible the counter sinking on the chassis was a bit heavy on the chassis I got that caused the screws to sit so deep in it?
01-30-2005, 04:24 AM
#400
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Doug, Thanks, I will get an email off to you tomorrow ( just got home after a very long day... its 6:25am now... I should be getting up now argh...)
02-01-2005, 08:48 AM
#403
Originally posted by Clegg
OVerall I am pretty happy with the Quad 12, only the fact that the screws from Associated do not sit right in the chassis is what bugs me. All the Associated Lower A Arm screws sit deep in the counter sinking and has caused both sides to delaminate a bit on hits. Ive replaced them as good as I can with some other big screws I have that seem to fill the counter sinking a bit better, but they are freaking steel screws.
This same issue happens on 2/3 of the screws on the 2.5mm chassis it seems.
I got into a bad accident with the car ( I was hit in a main sending me into a wall on a high speed corner real hard) which snapped the T bar, but also sent the rear pod graphite plate into the main chassis plate so hard the laminate layers punched into one another, and it pretyt much cracked the entire rear plate delaminating the entire lower 2 layers. Now the rear plate I didnt do much prep work on such as sanding and glue'n so I know thats all my fault.
But the thing that concerns me is if I order a new main chassis (to replace the one thats now warped by the front wheels from the Associated screws not being large enough it seems) and hte rear pod plate, will I have all the same issues again? I love the battery hold down for the Quad 12, I think its a great chassis and design. But since I dropped 110$ to have in 3 races both main peices of CF already destroyed makes me wonder if I should buy another set just to have the same thing happen again. Is this a byproduct of what the 2.5mm chassis does instead of flex? would the thinner chassis be more resilient?
I am not the best driver, but the main chasiss delaiminations happened with very minor tap's on the wood on a slow technical road course setup. Thats whats disturbed me the most.
Is it possible the counter sinking on the chassis was a bit heavy on the chassis I got that caused the screws to sit so deep in it?
OVerall I am pretty happy with the Quad 12, only the fact that the screws from Associated do not sit right in the chassis is what bugs me. All the Associated Lower A Arm screws sit deep in the counter sinking and has caused both sides to delaminate a bit on hits. Ive replaced them as good as I can with some other big screws I have that seem to fill the counter sinking a bit better, but they are freaking steel screws.
This same issue happens on 2/3 of the screws on the 2.5mm chassis it seems.
I got into a bad accident with the car ( I was hit in a main sending me into a wall on a high speed corner real hard) which snapped the T bar, but also sent the rear pod graphite plate into the main chassis plate so hard the laminate layers punched into one another, and it pretyt much cracked the entire rear plate delaminating the entire lower 2 layers. Now the rear plate I didnt do much prep work on such as sanding and glue'n so I know thats all my fault.
But the thing that concerns me is if I order a new main chassis (to replace the one thats now warped by the front wheels from the Associated screws not being large enough it seems) and hte rear pod plate, will I have all the same issues again? I love the battery hold down for the Quad 12, I think its a great chassis and design. But since I dropped 110$ to have in 3 races both main peices of CF already destroyed makes me wonder if I should buy another set just to have the same thing happen again. Is this a byproduct of what the 2.5mm chassis does instead of flex? would the thinner chassis be more resilient?
I am not the best driver, but the main chasiss delaiminations happened with very minor tap's on the wood on a slow technical road course setup. Thats whats disturbed me the most.
Is it possible the counter sinking on the chassis was a bit heavy on the chassis I got that caused the screws to sit so deep in it?
I race on asphalt and never had a chassis flake like that. Asphalt's surface is really abbrasive and I havent seen one come apart. One thing I do aswell as alot of the other racers is a take a qtip with slow drying CA and go over the screw holes and also prep the outter portion of the chassis with a dremel and sand paper and give it a rounded look and applly the ca let it dry.
After it dries the chassis is basically bullet proof!
You have a great product and enjoy!
H.Garcia
Team PRC.
02-01-2005, 08:50 AM
#404
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Yeh its weird. Well the rear plate was my fault I didnt prep it at all with glue or sanding... but the main chassis was just that it seemed the screws for the associated kits just didnt fit the chassis correctly.
And yes Doug's customer service rocks!
Doug, I shot the email off to you yesterday, THANKS!
Joe
And yes Doug's customer service rocks!
Doug, I shot the email off to you yesterday, THANKS!
Joe
02-01-2005, 08:58 AM
#405
Hector,
Have you had a chance to try out that t-plate that I gave you?
I would like to know what someone else thought of it.
Tim
Have you had a chance to try out that t-plate that I gave you?
I would like to know what someone else thought of it.
Tim