4LikesTamiya TRF417
10-30-2012, 10:55 AM
#4156
I know some of u have been asking about the cso chassic, i have tried it at our indoor carpet track. It has alot of crip i most say, but it changed it back to the org tamiya x deck and I was more consistent.
I didn't feel the changes i made to the car with CSO chassic, changed the handling of the car that much, maybe the CF look a like is just to soft for carpet.
Sadly my pace is way off indoors, maybe more pratice will help with this.
Still look for a good carpet starting point for a okayish driver.
we drive 28 sorex this season.
Thanks all
I didn't feel the changes i made to the car with CSO chassic, changed the handling of the car that much, maybe the CF look a like is just to soft for carpet.
Sadly my pace is way off indoors, maybe more pratice will help with this.
Still look for a good carpet starting point for a okayish driver.
we drive 28 sorex this season.
Thanks all
10-30-2012, 12:11 PM
#4157
problem with gear diff v2 SCREW
wich TRF HEX WRENCH SCREWDRIVER used jilles groskam in you tube video to tighten the screw of gear differential white V2?
my hudy 1.5mm not fit
my hudy 1.5mm not fit
10-30-2012, 01:25 PM
#4158
10-30-2012, 03:52 PM
#4159
10-31-2012, 12:10 AM
#4161
Tech Adept
10-31-2012, 06:46 PM
#4162
Alright see if this works
http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/4939...-pdf-667k?da=y
Please let me know how this works for you. Like I said, its a work in progress and I appreciate any input on how to make it better.
Things I have tried.
Stabilizers
Shock positions
Traction compound, SXT 3.0 all tires fully.
Softer shock oil, because there were bumps in the sweeper causing the car to become lose on more firm shockoil. I would prefer thicker on other track to start.
Things still to try:
Move the front A arm further forward ( i feel you it could use a tad more steering).
Try some different camber links
Try some more camber since the left front clearly wore the side wall
Try a softer oil, like 300k in front diff.
Other things to know:
- I used the reedy chassis and upper deck.
- I also used the steering brace.
http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/4939...-pdf-667k?da=y
Please let me know how this works for you. Like I said, its a work in progress and I appreciate any input on how to make it better.
Things I have tried.
Stabilizers
Shock positions
Traction compound, SXT 3.0 all tires fully.
Softer shock oil, because there were bumps in the sweeper causing the car to become lose on more firm shockoil. I would prefer thicker on other track to start.
Things still to try:
Move the front A arm further forward ( i feel you it could use a tad more steering).
Try some different camber links
Try some more camber since the left front clearly wore the side wall
Try a softer oil, like 300k in front diff.
Other things to know:
- I used the reedy chassis and upper deck.
- I also used the steering brace.
10-31-2012, 07:59 PM
#4163
hi all,
Where may I find Jilles video for diff v2 assembly, thanks.
Where may I find Jilles video for diff v2 assembly, thanks.
10-31-2012, 10:59 PM
#4164
11-01-2012, 03:53 PM
#4165
Hi all,
someone could explain me the difference between the original stabilizer and the ta06 option that I could find in the set up sheet.
thank you
someone could explain me the difference between the original stabilizer and the ta06 option that I could find in the set up sheet.
thank you
I have used 1.3 front and 1.1 rear on some tracks but generally the kit sway bars work best
11-02-2012, 05:44 AM
#4167
Tech Regular
Do you know the part number for the TA06 sway bar/s. I don't know if they come as a set, a separate set for front and rear, or individual - I've been looking for ages and not convinced I've found them!
I guess I'm really looking for 1.1 and 1.3 rear and 1.3 front?
Thanks
Oli
11-02-2012, 06:23 AM
#4168
54309 TA06 Stabilizer Set
Comes as a set:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54309
The 417 set is: 84208 TRF417 Stabilizer Rod Set
Comes as a set:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54309
The 417 set is: 84208 TRF417 Stabilizer Rod Set
11-02-2012, 01:13 PM
#4169
11-02-2012, 05:15 PM
#4170
Big thank you to everyone who offered me advice on getting my car to bite. Had another go today and things were much better. I started with my old set up but just stood the shocks up to hole 3 F+R. Car was really like driving on ice. I lowered camber links by 1mm, felt some more side bite but car was rotating like mad. Went up to #1000 in the rear diff and the car started rotating nicely but was still a bit slidey. Put the thinner top deck on and the car became much more to my liking, really digging in and not sliding in the corners at all unless I carried too much speed on entry. Car was a little slow on exit so went to 2.5 rear toe and it was all good. Last final had a bit of fun and put a front one way in. Quite good with the one way so long as everything was going to plan, as soon as I made a mistake and had to correct something the one way was not so fun!
Important thing is I'm leaving the rostrum with a smile again =D Big race this Sunday so let's hope I can keep the car handling sweetly.
If you look from the top of the wishbone so you can see where the holes are on both sides then hole 1 is the furthest out (closest to the wheel) and 4 is the most inward (closest to centre). The holes alternate from side to side, so the side with the furthest out hole has hole 1 and 3 and the other side is 2 and 4. If you look on a set up sheet then the diagram is arranged so that hole 1 looks further out than hole 2. HiH.
Important thing is I'm leaving the rostrum with a smile again =D Big race this Sunday so let's hope I can keep the car handling sweetly.
If you look from the top of the wishbone so you can see where the holes are on both sides then hole 1 is the furthest out (closest to the wheel) and 4 is the most inward (closest to centre). The holes alternate from side to side, so the side with the furthest out hole has hole 1 and 3 and the other side is 2 and 4. If you look on a set up sheet then the diagram is arranged so that hole 1 looks further out than hole 2. HiH.