4LikesTamiya TRF417
01-25-2012, 10:13 AM
#2656
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
The real problem your going to have mounting a gear different in the 414 is pilot size. The closest size I can find is a 34T from spec r. It'll fit, the belts will be too tight. I've used a gear different from top racing for 2 years now. Not the best, but in my car I've never been off pace. Won the roar last year with it and nearly won reedy with it. Just mount your standard 414 one-way gear on it. I have never rebuilt it. I filled it with black AE grease and drove it. It will brake in nicely after about 2 to 3 packs. If you find a way to mount a better brand please pm me. Thanks
Art
01-25-2012, 10:21 AM
#2657
Hy all!
Picked up a lightly used "original" 417. Build it up with all the tips and Tricks from jilles (cut Top Deck Front and rear, Spec R Double CVD´s, Tamiya Gear diff rear, split Blocks).
The only thing i havent done is to cut the motor mount. Is this a "must have" modd, or how would you all rate the improvement?
Greetings Rainer
Picked up a lightly used "original" 417. Build it up with all the tips and Tricks from jilles (cut Top Deck Front and rear, Spec R Double CVD´s, Tamiya Gear diff rear, split Blocks).
The only thing i havent done is to cut the motor mount. Is this a "must have" modd, or how would you all rate the improvement?
Greetings Rainer
01-25-2012, 03:21 PM
#2658
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
If you can't seem to get the rear of the car from sliding around or spinning out, then you should consider cutting the mount. I put the 417X motor mount on my car and it made a pretty big difference. The car feels very stable with it.
- Jose
- Jose
Hy all!
Picked up a lightly used "original" 417. Build it up with all the tips and Tricks from jilles (cut Top Deck Front and rear, Spec R Double CVD´s, Tamiya Gear diff rear, split Blocks).
The only thing i havent done is to cut the motor mount. Is this a "must have" modd, or how would you all rate the improvement?
Greetings Rainer
Picked up a lightly used "original" 417. Build it up with all the tips and Tricks from jilles (cut Top Deck Front and rear, Spec R Double CVD´s, Tamiya Gear diff rear, split Blocks).
The only thing i havent done is to cut the motor mount. Is this a "must have" modd, or how would you all rate the improvement?
Greetings Rainer
01-25-2012, 06:07 PM
#2659
Tech Master
01-26-2012, 01:27 AM
#2660
Tech Adept
Guys, is there any different between the v1 and v2 Spec R DCJ other than the clips? and any thoughts on yeah racing spring steel one?
Last edited by Wilson Picaldy; 01-26-2012 at 02:59 AM.
01-26-2012, 03:11 AM
#2661
The material for the shafts themselves I believe are the same, the pin material must've changed as I have not snapped one in about 4 months. The entire cvd has been redesigned, as you do not need grub screws the coupler is now a more solid piece as it does not have the hole where you would screw the grub screw.
01-26-2012, 05:00 AM
#2662
Tech Adept
The material for the shafts themselves I believe are the same, the pin material must've changed as I have not snapped one in about 4 months. The entire cvd has been redesigned, as you do not need grub screws the coupler is now a more solid piece as it does not have the hole where you would screw the grub screw.
01-26-2012, 07:22 AM
#2665
The material for the shafts themselves I believe are the same, the pin material must've changed as I have not snapped one in about 4 months. The entire cvd has been redesigned, as you do not need grub screws the coupler is now a more solid piece as it does not have the hole where you would screw the grub screw.
01-26-2012, 11:25 AM
#2666
I ordered the V2 to see if it is more durable, my mistake when buying, didn't saw there was a V2 type...
On the side of performance the transmission was smooth no vibration at all and the car was better on the track.
My only concern is that the thing only lasted a weekend...back to the old ones already.
01-27-2012, 05:05 PM
#2667
Tech Initiate
I'm driving my 417x yesterday for the first time, Unfortunately quake the swing shafts, [i must use tamiya in the tamiya euro cup], i use the sanwa m11x, and from 105% D-Rate (I´ve read some peaple use 150 D/R) a loud noise and vibration, what am I doing wrong? (I have other swing shafts test, the 46 mm steel or the 44 mm steel) the same problem.
thanks for fast help, greeting daniel
thanks for fast help, greeting daniel
01-28-2012, 07:52 AM
#2668
I'm driving my 417x yesterday for the first time, Unfortunately quake the swing shafts, [i must use tamiya in the tamiya euro cup], i use the sanwa m11x, and from 105% D-Rate (I´ve read some peaple use 150 D/R) a loud noise and vibration, what am I doing wrong? (I have other swing shafts test, the 46 mm steel or the 44 mm steel) the same problem.
thanks for fast help, greeting daniel
thanks for fast help, greeting daniel
01-28-2012, 12:35 PM
#2669
Tech Master
I tried a spec-r 416/417 gear diff and it wont fit as the pulley is too large so it will need holes cut in the chassis.
Juan mentioned the cheapest and best route. Otherwise if you wanted to change to the 416/7 diff you would need
- New belts
- Front 37t pulley
- Rear 37t Gear diff
- Shims to remove any play in the rear bulkhead
- A dremel to cut holes at the front and rear under the pulleys. Or a set of 2mm shims to fit under all of the front and rear bulkheads..
01-28-2012, 02:17 PM
#2670
I'm driving my 417x yesterday for the first time, Unfortunately quake the swing shafts, [i must use tamiya in the tamiya euro cup], i use the sanwa m11x, and from 105% D-Rate (I´ve read some peaple use 150 D/R) a loud noise and vibration, what am I doing wrong? (I have other swing shafts test, the 46 mm steel or the 44 mm steel) the same problem.
thanks for fast help, greeting daniel
thanks for fast help, greeting daniel
Vibrations and noise will reduce after some lipos till when the plastic direct cups are a little wear.