Originally Posted by RC10Nick

Mid motor setups aren't about getting as much weight on the front tires as possible. It's about getting all the weight inside the wheelbase in order to reduce the pendulum effect that happens when the motor sits behind the wheelbase.

What makes RM work so well in lower traction is the static weight distribution. It has more weight on the rear. I'm not shocking anyone by saying this. They usually have at least 65% and up to 70% of their weight on the rear tires. The dex210 in mid motor with the battery the whole way back has about 62% on the rear. It's never going to generate as much reach bite like that. Other companies have identified a solution, as vr6cj has pointed out. Turn the battery sideways and get as much freaking weight on the back without putting it outside the wheelbase as possible. My goal is to get at least 65% on the rear without having to add weight. I was up to about 64% with the battery a 1/4" from the motor. With my new configuration, the battery is as close as it can get. That 1/4" will help quite a bit. Also, now I can move my ESC a little off center and 1/4 further back to optimize it's placement and reduce the wire length to help my weight distribution even more.

Originally Posted by theclutch

I'm trying to understand what are you trying to accomplish by moving the battery in that direction especially with a mid motor setup?

You're shifting more weight to the back and oddly still have a mid motor setup... AND you're also adding more weight to the outer edges of the car which would make it less nimble. All road race car designers out there aim to get the center of gravity as close to the center line of the car as much as possible and then play with the weight distribution front/back as they see fit.

So by putting more weight to the outer edges of the car, you're making the car want to "lean more" as it's turning. But at the same time, it would be less nimble when you want to change directions. And then by moving the battery to the back (and keeping mid motor setup), you've reduced the amount of weight in the front which would have a tendency to give you less steering...

So, I'm confused with what you're trying to accomplish. But maybe I missed something so I'm open to the thought process. Certainly not trying to insult anyone as I'm just trying to understand.

Originally Posted by madweazl

Ordered a ball diff for the car but cant get it together now The spring and nut seem to be much to long to fit in the out drive and interfere with the axle once installed (the axle cant plunge).

Edit: guess I just didnt have it "tight." Sure felt tight enough but I kept cranking on it and wasnt getting anymore friction on the diff. It sucked the T-nut most of the way into the outdrive (couple mm from bottoming out on the outdrive). Diff is nice and tight now but still doesnt seem like there is a whole lot of room in the outdrive.

Originally Posted by fredswain

This looks awfully familiar. In fact much of it is nearly word for word familiar.

Originally Posted by cripplethreat

Does anyone have a good base setup for running 17.5 on a small carpet track? All of the ones on petit are for mod and i don't know how well they will translate.

Originally Posted by wyd

If you go to the Durango website they have a video on how to build their diff. I checked it out before I built mine because I heard so much about the c clip and making sure it was in right. I put mine together like the video showed and it has worked great from the very first battery til now a few months later. Never once has it come loose. It is a vid worth watching.

Originally Posted by jaank

Any ideas where to get good pliers for the diff?
I got some cheap ones from ebay, but they were too big and after modifying they didn't really work too good any more.