EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

That's what I've been doing but I have these nice tapered pistons to use but no idea which ones would be good for my application. Perhaps I'm just overthinking it lol

Alan_r

Not sure what your driving level is but once you get to the point where crashes are rare and you're hitting the right lines every single time, along with timing your jumps properly 95% of the time, what you should do is test different setups on the clock. Try different shock packages, if you find your overall times are slower, go back to where you were. I can kind of "feel" what is right based on feedback from the car but even then, the clock has proven my "feel" grossly wrong at times.

Have you went to Petit rc and looked for tracks similar to yours, then looked at what the PRO's were running for their shock packages? It's an interesting path to take; that can help or leave you confused as hell.

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

You know, when you put it that way, I might want to spend another practice session or two with my current setup because I do still struggle coming off the front straight and into the first couple of jumps. I need to figure out those lines because that's where I'm losing the most time as it sits. But I'm trying a new recommended tire setup with positrons in the rear and losi taper pins up front this weekend. It's supposed to be one of the better setups at the track but I didn't have the tires last practice day.

And I did look up some of Ryan Lutz's clay setups that are similar to the local track and that's where I came up with the current shock package I want to try. I just wanted to try the fancy pistons I had if they would do the job lol. I have handfuls of the regular black pistons but I'm not a huge fan of parts tree pistons.

Thanks!

Pistol123

When setting my car up I found once I got it to suit my driving style (biggest difference was changing from mm4 to mm3) that it was much easier to hit those lines every lap. Before every corner was a maximum attack and still not producing a decent lap time. Then once you get more consistent you start noticing smaller changes - one race I was missing the apex nearly every time on the tighter 180' bends - turned out i'd left a slightly harder set of front springs on that used last time in astro.

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

Well I suppose swapping springs isn't too difficult, maybe I could give that a try at the track with a few different sets. As it sits, the setup I found from Ryan Lutz calls for stiffer springs in the rear. And my oils are pretty close to what he was using so it would probably be worth it to just try the new springs and see if there is any minor improvement after I spend a couple battery packs on my current setup

If anyone needs 21.5mm shock shafts, please see me. I have... accidentally, ordered more than needed.

WallyRC

Ebb,
I run on a similar track as you do. It's indoor clay/dirt. Med/high traction. Can be bumpy at time and smooth other times. We usually have pretty large jumps. One of my buggy's has
F2x1.5 and rear 2x1.6
Other had 2x1.6 all around.
Running F30wt/R27.5.
I tried 3 hole Pistons but the 2 holes were better. More pack. Smoother landings. Better corner speed.

I have heard people w/other buggies running the new "cheater Pistons":
3x1.5 w 1 hole x 1. ( 4 holes total)
Check out RC speed secrets website.

You could try that w/your 4x1 and drill three of them out.

Good luck

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

Thank you Wally! This is the sort of feedback I was hoping for in regards to the pistons. I'm going to write down your tips and keep notes at the track this weekend of what worked. I probably won't try new pistons this session, but I'm still early on in my tuning process lol.

Speaking of pack, can you explain to me what creates the pack? Is it the overall diameter of the holes in the piston that dictate pack?

Thanks again!

Edit: just to add some info. I switched to a gear diff last night with lightened outdrives and only two spider gears. And replaced the original motor plate with the Exotek flite motor plate.

Overall just that switch took 17 grams off the rear. Could be more if I go with plastic spider gears but I'm waiting to see how the two gear setup works.

WallyRC

I will try to explain pack to the best of my ability: smaller holes and more of them are suppose to crest more turbulence which slows the flow of oils or I guess in some cases "locks" up the piston and stops it. So 2 Pistons with similar hole areas, using pie x radius(squared), the one with smaller holes should pack sooner in the stroke. Pack usually occurs at higher speeds. At slower speeds Pistons with similar hole areas will react the same when there is laminar flow.
Ex: So a 2x1.7 = 4.5 and a 4x1.2 = 4.52. The 4x1.2 should pack sooner than the 2x1.7.

Edit: smaller holes supposedly pack sooner than larger.

Looking at your setup, your rear dark blue spring seems a bit strong.
Happy tuning

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

Great explanation wally that should help me chose a piston setup much easier if I decide to switch the current ones.

And the last two practice sessions I was running black springs which I believe are softer. But I've got the tuning set of springs so if you have any spring combos I should try I'm all ears my friend springs are easy to change afterall.

WallyRC

Your running the new exotek chassis. I have heard it is much lighter and guys that were running it found they had to lighten their springs. I would start with light blue in the rear. The light red up front may be good. Adjust from there. Find balance.

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

That's a good point, this chassis was a lot lighter than I expected. I'm running a heavy shorty and my overall weight is still close to minimum. Thanks for the tips Wally. I'll try to find that balance this weekend

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

Hey folks, I've got another noob question if y'all can help. So it's been a long time since I've tried gearing a 17.5 to the moon in this car and I am wondering what's the largest pinion that fits?

I tried fitting a 35t trinity pinion in last night with a 71t spur, and when I attached the gear cover, the pinion gear would bind against the gear cover badly. Switched back to 33t 175RC pinion and all was well. It would seem this is the limit. But perhaps there are other combos to bring my FDR down a bit? My brain isn't seeing a possibility on PetitRC but I could be missing something.

Right now I am at 5.6:1 (71/33) and I would like to get at or below 5.4:1. The best combo I can think of is the TD machined 69t spur and my usual 33t pinion. That gets me to 5.43:1. Which might be perfect. But I'm open for options

Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

Someone has a brand new DEX210v2 kit for $200 shipped on eBay.

Team Durango Dex210V2 1/10 buggy | eBay

Alan_r

Zeek STOP IT! I've bought 75% of the shite you've posted here as "hey there's a" lol

Thankfully I'm done buying TD kits, I have everything I need to run. I'm currently working on putting some SPEC cars together for when I travel down to Florida but I think that first 2wd will be the Serpent SRX2 TE. Serpent USA is running a 10% off all kits until early August so I'll take advantage of that. Gonna be weird reading about current successes with a car I run. It's been a while.

To the guy setup hunting (sorry your name isn't on my screen) Make sure you're documenting every change you make. Until recently I was still using paper setup sheets; I looked like a damn scientist everytime I was working with a new car. Clipboards and pens, calipers and Steel rule sticking out of my pockets. But by the end of the day I had a full page of what does what and how it effects the car. The end result was that my cars were incredibly easy to drive. No surprises and they just felt stuck to the track until the tires started to deteriorate. The car was so dialed that tire wear was obvious. Be methodical and you'll get there and build knowledge as well. These are racecars after all. Precision and consistency matters.

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

I thought I was the only one with the spend thrift issue lol. I was good today though, I only ordered a couple type b gearboxes and shock towers. Just trying to avoid using my carbon towers on the aluminum exotek chassis since I don't believe they have the same geometry as the type B rear swept front tower. This stuff is getting harder and harder to find.

And thank you for the setup note advice! I plan on doing some of that this weekend though not quite as detailed lol. For most of the practice day I need to see where I'm at with my current setup so I can find some more consistency. Then I'll start making changes if I have a good idea where I'm hurting. I think my biggest change from last session is going to a gear diff with 4k oil. Not entirely sure how I'll like it but I'm bringing the ball diff just incase lol.