Schumacher Corner
#9992
Tech Adept
I'd say that you need a pinion between 20-30 tooth. It's kind of hard to be more precise without knowing your motors and track. Even same type of motors can require different pinions, some up to 2-3 teeth.
If you know what final gearing your motor and track needs, check the needed pinion out in the manual. If you don't know, ask some locals about a ballpark figure, start with a bit smaller pinion (=higher gearing) and work your way up from there, checking every once in a while that your motor doesn't overheat (especially if you're running stock).
If you're racing, you need more than one pinion anyway...
If you know what final gearing your motor and track needs, check the needed pinion out in the manual. If you don't know, ask some locals about a ballpark figure, start with a bit smaller pinion (=higher gearing) and work your way up from there, checking every once in a while that your motor doesn't overheat (especially if you're running stock).
If you're racing, you need more than one pinion anyway...
#9993
Originally Posted by cyrrus
I have a couple of question are the Tamiya shock a dirrect replacement or is there any type of mod involved.
My other question is I have the Stock shock towers. on the car it has a set of low profile towers(guessing better for carpet.)
One last question do ae springs fit. on a small tight track what type of springs do you recommed.
AE springs fit the Tamiya shocks, as do the new Pro Springs from Schumacher.
Small tight track I run 40 weight three hole front with AE blue springs, 35 weight three hole rear with AE blue springs
#9994
Mounting Tamiya shocks to the Mi2 made easy http://www.pdubracing.com/products.htm Scroll to the bottom of the page
#9996
With the TAM shocks is the schumi more stable than the SCHUMI'S and they are better to do oil in.I run with 40 on the front and 40 on the rear with 3 holes .The length of my shocks are 61.5mm (front and rear).On tarmac i use blue on the front and silver on the rear.When i driving high grip circuit.(mostly carpet)i use blue on the rear and gold on the front.
#9997
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
TRF shocks are more consistent build to build and much easier to build. AE blue (F) and silver (R) is a very common combination. I know PW put AE blue and Schumacher whites in the back and liked it a lot.
I'm going to be doing some testing with new setups on the BMi 2.5mm chassis and higher flex top deck. Different spring combos, shock locations, roll centers, etc... I'll post some stuff up once I get some track time.
I'm going to be doing some testing with new setups on the BMi 2.5mm chassis and higher flex top deck. Different spring combos, shock locations, roll centers, etc... I'll post some stuff up once I get some track time.
#9999
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by P-DUB
Mounting Tamiya shocks to the Mi2 made easy http://www.pdubracing.com/products.htm Scroll to the bottom of the page
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
Is that just a 3 mm screw you would put through those badboys?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by P-DUB
Yep, thats it
So the car is more stable if you're using the tamiya shocks, does that mean the schumi shocks are bad?
I mean is it essensial to replace the orginal schumi's by trf's?
(I'm planning buying a new tourer so that's why I'd like to know)
I mean is it essensial to replace the orginal schumi's by trf's?
(I'm planning buying a new tourer so that's why I'd like to know)
SPRING LENGTH
Hey Guys,
Thank for the response on the previous question but i got one more. I am switching my car from a Adrian based setup to a Padillla based setup and i was wondering how critical is it to have the exact same shock length when following the setup sheet. Before you get buck wild on me i have always followed the setup sheets passed to be to the T. However, since my last setup I’ve had to cut the ball joints on my Tamiya shocks to aceive ride height. After having than done i noticed that there was so much material gone (aprx. 1mm) that i could vary my shock length too much before the shaft didn’t have enough threading to remain stable. Therefore my shock would sometime buckle causing it to separate and thus i loss control.
Thus i ask against, how important is it to use the same shock length in these setups? If i am able to make ride height, and my oil is the same, and my shocks are the same, wouldn’t the shock’s length not affect the car????
MI jeDI
Thank for the response on the previous question but i got one more. I am switching my car from a Adrian based setup to a Padillla based setup and i was wondering how critical is it to have the exact same shock length when following the setup sheet. Before you get buck wild on me i have always followed the setup sheets passed to be to the T. However, since my last setup I’ve had to cut the ball joints on my Tamiya shocks to aceive ride height. After having than done i noticed that there was so much material gone (aprx. 1mm) that i could vary my shock length too much before the shaft didn’t have enough threading to remain stable. Therefore my shock would sometime buckle causing it to separate and thus i loss control.
Thus i ask against, how important is it to use the same shock length in these setups? If i am able to make ride height, and my oil is the same, and my shocks are the same, wouldn’t the shock’s length not affect the car????
MI jeDI
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by Tekin
So the car is more stable if you're using the tamiya shocks, does that mean the schumi shocks are bad?
I mean is it essensial to replace the orginal schumi's by trf's?
(I'm planning buying a new tourer so that's why I'd like to know)
I mean is it essensial to replace the orginal schumi's by trf's?
(I'm planning buying a new tourer so that's why I'd like to know)
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by IslandBwoy
Hey Guys,
Thank for the response on the previous question but i got one more. I am switching my car from a Adrian based setup to a Padillla based setup and i was wondering how critical is it to have the exact same shock length when following the setup sheet. Before you get buck wild on me i have always followed the setup sheets passed to be to the T. However, since my last setup I’ve had to cut the ball joints on my Tamiya shocks to aceive ride height. After having than done i noticed that there was so much material gone (aprx. 1mm) that i could vary my shock length too much before the shaft didn’t have enough threading to remain stable. Therefore my shock would sometime buckle causing it to separate and thus i loss control.
Thus i ask against, how important is it to use the same shock length in these setups? If i am able to make ride height, and my oil is the same, and my shocks are the same, wouldn’t the shock’s length not affect the car????
MI jeDI
Thank for the response on the previous question but i got one more. I am switching my car from a Adrian based setup to a Padillla based setup and i was wondering how critical is it to have the exact same shock length when following the setup sheet. Before you get buck wild on me i have always followed the setup sheets passed to be to the T. However, since my last setup I’ve had to cut the ball joints on my Tamiya shocks to aceive ride height. After having than done i noticed that there was so much material gone (aprx. 1mm) that i could vary my shock length too much before the shaft didn’t have enough threading to remain stable. Therefore my shock would sometime buckle causing it to separate and thus i loss control.
Thus i ask against, how important is it to use the same shock length in these setups? If i am able to make ride height, and my oil is the same, and my shocks are the same, wouldn’t the shock’s length not affect the car????
MI jeDI