Xray T1
I race in a parking lot series that also includes nitro sedan and Inferno GT's, so the layouts are fairly large and open (usual layout is 180x90), so I don't think it really hurts the car's performance. It actually makes for a car that is easy to be fast with, especially in 27T/13.5T classes where momentum is so important and where smooth is fast. A faster, digital servo *will* be my next upgrade though, and then lipo once someone makes an SMC-sized saddle pack with bullet connectors
-rocky b
-rocky b
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I officially wanna give upon these shocks. They are the worst shocks I have ever worked on, lol. IDK what it is. Its not even like I am doing a full rebuild, just wanna try different weights. Everytime, I drain te Shaft, and put the new weight in it is fine. But then when I go to rebuild it, the collar that lets you adjsut ride height never wants to go back on. The shock is not stripped or anything. WEIRD!.
Cody
Cody
I officially wanna give upon these shocks. They are the worst shocks I have ever worked on, lol. IDK what it is. Its not even like I am doing a full rebuild, just wanna try different weights. Everytime, I drain te Shaft, and put the new weight in it is fine. But then when I go to rebuild it, the collar that lets you adjsut ride height never wants to go back on. The shock is not stripped or anything. WEIRD!.
Cody
Cody
Wow, So Icould have left them alone. lol.
I was going to run 30weight
Cody
I was going to run 30weight
Cody
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Cody I would suggest starting with 40 wt all around, with 2 or 3 hole pistons. You said your track was just repaved with tennis court asphalt, so I'm sure it is billiard table smooth, and you are running 19T so it won't hurt to keep the car a little flatter in the corners. Search for "shock bleeding" or "shock rebuild" or something along those lines on the XRay forums...there is a tutorial there that is 4 or 5 pages long and takes you step by step how to build the perfect shock (I could do the same thing for my nitro buggy shocks in about 5 sentences ). The trick is in the bleeding and "communicating effectively" with the purple o-ring. There is also a great tip for threading the caps and collars...set in on the threads and turn in counter-clockwise until you hear a click and feel the cap/collar flatten out, *then* turn clockwise to tighten it. Did you get your track measurements yet or is there a website?
-rocky b
-rocky b
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jlfx I'm digging the VTA FK04...what lipo did you find that would fit between the bulkheads? Love the pics!
-rocky b
-rocky b
hi im just new to rc and just recently picked up a used t1fk04. i just found out right now that its so hard to find parts for this car. so where do you guys buy parts? i need the chassis i know i can use any chassis from any t1 series but i really like the one from fk04. any help?
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hi im just new to rc and just recently picked up a used t1fk04. i just found out right now that its so hard to find parts for this car. so where do you guys buy parts? i need the chassis i know i can use any chassis from any t1 series but i really like the one from fk04. any help?
-rocky b
edit: the composite (plastic) chassis is 30 bucks...not a bad deal if you are racing on asphalt or just bashing around.
Last edited by flatspunout; 01-04-2009 at 11:35 PM.
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well the pack is a reedy 5000 i did have to sand the ends 1/2" across to get it to go between the uprites but that is ok cause the case is 3/8" longer than the cells and i filled the holes in with epoxy putty to add weight and fill in the holes i just used a belt sander and did it little @ a time and actualy 1/8" on each side was alittle mutch
I don't have measurements but here is a video of the 19 turn class.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61wL2Eq3qUk
It is a pretty large track.
Since it was just repaved, there is already a ton of traction. Would this shock setup work you think?
40 weight all around
White springs in the rear, and purple up front?
cody
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61wL2Eq3qUk
It is a pretty large track.
Since it was just repaved, there is already a ton of traction. Would this shock setup work you think?
40 weight all around
White springs in the rear, and purple up front?
cody
Here is a nice generic starting setup sheet for the early generation T1's. I changed a couple of things as I run on a low traction p-lot but this should get you in the ballpark.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=1013
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=1013
Stormer Hobbies, The RC Shack, and Ampdraw Hobbies have a pretty good selection of T1 parts...new chassis are expensive everywhere I have found them though. For the 80 or 90 bucks a new chassis costs you can buy another roller. Which one do you have and which one do you need? I have a couple of carpet chassis I would be willing to part with if that is what you will be running on and I'll make you a smokin deal. Also, the T1 FK05 chassis will not fit; T1 Evo, Evo2, and FK04 will. Now let's see pics
-rocky b
edit: the composite (plastic) chassis is 30 bucks...not a bad deal if you are racing on asphalt or just bashing around.
-rocky b
edit: the composite (plastic) chassis is 30 bucks...not a bad deal if you are racing on asphalt or just bashing around.
i want the stock fk04 chassis in particular (same chassis i have now), i guess the one you have is different. do you have pics?
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