InitialD

Didn't you mention that it was because of the engine mount to the crankscase was loose?

How did I get mine to work? I drive on cruise mode?

I notice that with your current meshing on your car, I personally found it too loose for my liking ! I would mesh it further in but that's me...

InitialD

Cool gadget but for me, there is too much cluttering on the car. Since you do not have rules, run the car as light as you can !

Anyway, why do you want to monitor the voltage? Your HRS 3PK would go into failsafe mode and lock the throttle servo once your receiver pack goes down to 4.8V.

crashed_1

The meshing loosens itself after a hard days of trashing (wear)...I'm gonna give the 16/61 combo one more try, if it strips again...then back to good ol' 60...gets the job done.

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

710 sold... =)
I will still keep in touch though,

I want to thank you guys because in this thread I have learned very much. I want to thank you for you patience when I asked silly and repetitive questions.

rcpanama

The weight without Fuel and Body is 1692g

The monitor will allow me to check if the Servos are doing too much strength so I can fix it or adjust it, this voltage meter weights very little. I am using an 850 GP batteries, I try to avoid getting to 4.8V must of the time.

Must of the Mugen cars weights more than 1700 without body and fuel so I am very light compare to them, but I am learning, only a year since I started raising with my Impulse Pro and now only one month since I started with the 710

I learn a loot from this forum.

Derby Bros Racing

iTrader: (7)

what do you have now, profoxcg

Nitropimp

can I say "MUGEN MTX-3"..............................

BaxterC

Well, I actually put in a longer piece of fuel tubing on the brake linkage and then I put the small piece in with the spring onto the throttle, so that you have more travel on the servo for the brake, gives a more gradual and more precise brake response. (in Theory and testing it it seems to do so) I am running my car for the first time this weekend, not at the track yet, I have not paid my membership fees so I will be looked at funny if I just went, I need to runn everything in, and get everything setup, IE the clutch, the steering and all that, get the car to how I like it, at least into the ballpark, then dial it in from there at the track.

I have been moved from one support site to another. What a difference, here it is busy as heck, but it is a pleasure to do support again, not that junk I was doing there... 'Firefighting' if you know what I mean.

BaxterC

Well, Mr Pimp man... If everyone liked or wanted a 710, who would be left to run the Mugens... We would have no competition... Or bashing in our forums if everyone wanted a 710?

GoldFinger

When you start using drag brake, spring on the brake linkage instead of fuel tubing is smoother.
But pay attention on the brake EPA(travel) should not exceed the throttle EPA, otherwise you strain the servo very hard.
I loose one already

markp27

I have two JPs on their way one for the 1/8th killer project and now one for the 710

Derby Bros Racing

iTrader: (7)

markp27

I checked in the 710 setup book and that's what was recommended - work a treat!!!


Do you mean I should go 1mm lower, or is 4mm the minimum that can be used?


It's hell I have to go again today.....and tomorrow....and.....

InitialD

Yup. I hear our competitors are also using that book to solve their car handling problems !

Well, there is no minimum. From what I read, Julius mentioned that 4 mm was the sweat spot ! You can try 3 mm or 5 mm. Perhaps it will or will not be better.

If that's hell, I want to go to !

InitialD

Let's hope at the end of the day they give you 3 engines then or charge you only for 1 engine instead of 2.