GT class--buggy-based on road!
06-14-2011, 07:07 AM
#6721
you on point..with my GO Engine 7 port i am 100% satisfied when i race against picco p9 and nova flash ..the nova pretty quick at first but when i change to 1.1 clutch springs my GO was on it and my temps on the GO was 215-225 degrees and also switch from hot plug to medium plug funning byrons 25%
Try an O'Donnell 97T plug on GO Engines, the best results so far ... and very durable,
cya !
06-14-2011, 07:44 AM
#6722
OS 25 on a 086/shrt manifold....... should be good for at least 60 MPH......I found gearing up the DM-1 made the car even more sluggish and actually hurt top end...gearing down seems to allow the engine to spool better and reach higher speeds and RPM as well...IMO the DM-1 is over geared, especially for a .21... My mod JPX hit 62 MPH in 300', my mod Picco 28 hit 68 MPH in 300'....The 28 could pull more but we couldn't keep the car straight enough to make a full run....... even at 62 MPH we had issues with air getting under the body and causing the car to flip over backwards....
06-14-2011, 04:27 PM
#6723
OS 25 on a 086/shrt manifold....... should be good for at least 60 MPH......I found gearing up the DM-1 made the car even more sluggish and actually hurt top end...gearing down seems to allow the engine to spool better and reach higher speeds and RPM as well...IMO the DM-1 is over geared, especially for a .21... My mod JPX hit 62 MPH in 300', my mod Picco 28 hit 68 MPH in 300'....The 28 could pull more but we couldn't keep the car straight enough to make a full run....... even at 62 MPH we had issues with air getting under the body and causing the car to flip over backwards....
http://youtu.be/4zr6RI9tpP8
06-14-2011, 10:09 PM
#6724
06-15-2011, 01:41 AM
#6725
Tuning my rally GT
Orange head RB MT11 .28 motor with rotostart will complete this
Orange head RB MT11 .28 motor with rotostart will complete this
06-15-2011, 04:59 AM
#6726
Now placing the exhaust at the rear of the car I think have enough room for an extra fuel tank for increased mileage.
Do you know if two tanks will work fine and if so is it better to connect them in series or with a Y-connector separately from each other ?
Thanks
Do you know if two tanks will work fine and if so is it better to connect them in series or with a Y-connector separately from each other ?
Thanks
06-15-2011, 05:19 AM
#6727
I would think setting them up with a Y-connector might be the way to go. I also think the fuel lines should be the same lengths. Maybe even another Y-connector to the exhaust fitting too.
Do it Mika, get that 20 minute run time!
06-15-2011, 06:23 AM
#6728
Head over to the monster truck threads.
The Mgt 8.0 guys were doing a "dual tank mod" a few years back.
I am sure they have it problem free by now.
The Mgt 8.0 guys were doing a "dual tank mod" a few years back.
I am sure they have it problem free by now.
06-15-2011, 06:26 AM
#6729
Yeah!
In some monsters there are twin fuel tanks. Need to check how they're implemented. But if anyone knows, I'm glad to learn!
Thanks
e: Thanks J.D ! Exactly.
In some monsters there are twin fuel tanks. Need to check how they're implemented. But if anyone knows, I'm glad to learn!
Thanks
e: Thanks J.D ! Exactly.
06-15-2011, 08:24 AM
#6730
In R/C groups someone said this:
by the "vent" he means the pressure tap on the tank, no?
sounds fine to me
You have to use muffler pressure and having a engine with decent fuel draw is a plus. Basically you simply run the fuel tanks in series with each other. the vent from the first fuel tank goes to the fuel outlet on the second tank and the vent on the second tank goes to the muffler pressure tap. In this manner the second tank drains into the first tank which provides the fuel to the engine.
sounds fine to me
06-15-2011, 09:58 AM
#6731
Just thinking about this option, if you put preasure into the first tank, it would have to blow through the filter and then into the second tank. So you would be pumping fuel up and into the top of the 2nd tank. Would think it would take more preasure to push the fuel. Also, not sure how the out flow of fuel would work going through the cap.
If you ran the presure side into each tank, then you would not decrease the preasure in the 2nd tank. Also, the motor is only going to draw what it can use and your really only have the same preasure coming out, so a 'Y' would be good on the feed side as well.
Lastly, the CG of the car would stay if both tanks are brough down at the same rate. Which would keep it better balanced.
My 2 cents
If you ran the presure side into each tank, then you would not decrease the preasure in the 2nd tank. Also, the motor is only going to draw what it can use and your really only have the same preasure coming out, so a 'Y' would be good on the feed side as well.
Lastly, the CG of the car would stay if both tanks are brough down at the same rate. Which would keep it better balanced.
My 2 cents
06-15-2011, 10:51 AM
#6732
06-15-2011, 12:49 PM
#6733
Just thinking about this option, if you put preasure into the first tank, it would have to blow through the filter and then into the second tank. So you would be pumping fuel up and into the top of the 2nd tank. Would think it would take more preasure to push the fuel. Also, not sure how the out flow of fuel would work going through the cap.
If you ran the presure side into each tank, then you would not decrease the preasure in the 2nd tank. Also, the motor is only going to draw what it can use and your really only have the same preasure coming out, so a 'Y' would be good on the feed side as well.
Lastly, the CG of the car would stay if both tanks are brough down at the same rate. Which would keep it better balanced.
My 2 cents
If you ran the presure side into each tank, then you would not decrease the preasure in the 2nd tank. Also, the motor is only going to draw what it can use and your really only have the same preasure coming out, so a 'Y' would be good on the feed side as well.
Lastly, the CG of the car would stay if both tanks are brough down at the same rate. Which would keep it better balanced.
My 2 cents
Anyway abandoning the idea of two tanks at least here for now (read further why... ;-) )
Instead, here's what I've been up to tonight, now that I have more space on the left side after moving the pipe to the rear I can move the tank slightly and either install a TT tranny (requires a longer clutchbell) or a Centax.
I have a spare Centax already so i decide to go with it first.
I also got the HPI rotostart, I was going to use the MT11 with rotostart, but had a nice surprise that the HPI roto shipped with a unit that fitted to my RB RTR motor. Hence I can use that motor with the Centax, it's a .21 and the centax bell from my Rally Game is 15T -- nice!
Let's see if and how this will perform. I can always go to traditional setups if I have to. Interesting building anyhow
Pics
Bigjez, not sure about DM1. Cheers
06-15-2011, 12:55 PM
#6734
06-15-2011, 01:05 PM
#6735
