-WHEELMAN-

iTrader: (267)

Alright guys i dont mean to kill a beaten dog here but I am new to on road and am having trouble finding some gearing setups. Im running an RS with 13.5 all Tekin and have read to give Tekin a few more teeth than other brands but still dont know what a good starting point would be. I have a 126 spur so what should I get for a pinion? My local track has about a 120 foot straight away. I tried the tekin forum and no luck yet. Any advice is appreciated, i mean ANY.

MaxSp97

iTrader: (5)

Wheelman
Did you post in here?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-sensored.html
This is setup for 189 with Hotwire:

• Motor Timing =10
• Timing Boost = 20
• Neutral Width = 10
• Drag Brake = 0
• Throttle Profile = 3 - 5 "refer 3"
• FDR: 4.8

I run a few teeth lower than other brand motors.
Check your motor's temperature.

Pablo Diablo

iTrader: (3)

That depends on so many things. How much timing are you using, turbo, size of the track, how often you crash.....? With speedies like the tekin that give you more timing you normally run a smaller rollout which is a smaller pinion not larger. I would talk to someone running the same speedie/motor combo who has it working well then have a look at gearchart.com and try to achieve the same rollout.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

last time I had driven the MI3, he said it sucked, but it felt awesome to me Probably more of a different feel than really faster/slower, I've come to realize that being fast is all about making a car work for you.

-WHEELMAN-

iTrader: (267)

Thanks for the link, i was looking around that thread but didnt see any one running a Losi.

I have everything set to default and once I find the gearing sweet spot and my temps are low enough ill advance timing accordingly to keep it below the 170 mark and get the most power out of it. 120 foot straight at the most as I previously mentioned. I can keep the thing on the track where it should be without crashing but have my epa's adjusted to do so until I get used to having traction. Coming from offroad and it is so much fun but wow what a different style of driving. Havent came across anyone running this setup at my local track, thats why im asking.

SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

waht you need is 45-52T 64P pinions. and gear your car for 170F or below after a race

but not sure if 120 spur will fit with those pinions, I think you should get a spur adaptor or new center shaft from www.skyrocketbatteries.com/ to fits a 108 spur gear.

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

Yeah, I ran a 108/44 with a 17.5 sp and sxx tc profile 10(+5deg timing) today for about 6 mins. The motor was at 143 deg after the run. Car felt fast but still well under the temp. Just throwing it out there for shats and giggles.

-WHEELMAN-

iTrader: (267)

Nice bro thats some direction. I had to order a new center shaft to fit the SMC 40C packs I got so hopefully it will be in stock next week some time for shipping.

Nice thanks. Do you think i should try the same even though im running a 13.5? Im new to on road, I mean I used to race about 5 years ago before i got into on road but was never any good, do you think i should be starting with a 17.5? If I remember right you really only notice the differance in the long straights and not at all within a small tight track.

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

Yeah, 17.5 is good to start back in if you havent raced in awhile. Like me. 13.5 is more for advanced drivers per say. IE the old "Expert/Super Stock" classes vs the 17.5 IE stock or novice more like it. :P haha. Anyways last time I raced 17.5 I got booted out to 13.5 cause I was lapping them.

Yeah, the gearing there I'm at is a good starting point. It works for the 13.5 at our track too because we only have one long straight. We'll see when race day comes. I'll go practice and adjust from there based on motor temps and how the car feels.

But once you get that layshaft in, get yourself a Kimbrough 108 and start in the 40ish range. Adjust from there for your track, esc and weather. Even the motors are a little different too. I have Novak, LRp and sp 13.5's and they all run a little "different" from ea other. BTW if your goin smaller then I think a 43 pinion you might have to up you spur. Dont think it'll mate up together.

Just my .02 here.

-WHEELMAN-

iTrader: (267)

Your .02 is appreciated. Ill let you know how it turns out.

jkirkwood

iTrader: (8)

Anyone been trying some of Urbain's flex mods? I experimented with everything but the top deck modification last night and had some good results. The gain in traction seemed mostly at the rear as the car became a bit tight so i had to adjust the setup a bit to accommodate. By the end of the night I reset my own track record by a full lap and was on pace to do it by 2. (small track so just gains of a tenth or two will earn another lap).

SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

Good job, I gotta get myself a Jig saw to try that mod, I usually just lose all 4 top deck screws, lose 2 stand offs from front at Asphalt with 2.5 toe in rear.

I love to try 2.0 with a flex chassis.

I was thinking about hacking it with the dremel.....

but nah....too messy.

L.Fairtrace

iTrader: (24)

If you want to try any carbon fiber cutting use a dremel and just leave enough material to clean it up with some sandpaper. Sandpaper does wonders .

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

Working on stock should be here and ready to ship this week. If any of the back orders are going to be at the Xray Race at Jackson I can bring them with me along with some 5$ bills for refunds for shipping I plan to be there around 7:30am.

MonkeyFist

iTrader: (7)

I've been thinking about getting a JRXS, but have a question. I have 2 Lipos that are like this:
http://www.promatchracing.com/proddetail.php?prod=2506

My concern is the balance taps and the main leads woun't fit past the chassis top plate. Do you guys have any insight as to wether or not my packs will fit?