dragnse7en

You will only need to replace the top hardware with 5mm ball studs. Use the same nuts that hold on the top bushings and you should be all set.

Chewwie

what about gearing ?

dragnse7en

I use 64p 105t spur/ 35t pinion. Great upper midrange gearing.

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

Depends on how big the area your running in is. Without that, what I tell you could be way over or way under, and both can be bad for your system.

Chewwie

2 blocks of flat surface

Chewwie

thanks. i will keep that in mind.

just getting back to electric and everything has change so much

Chewwie

what does the 7.4v , 11.1v , 14.8v , 20c , 30c , 40c means ??

M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

It is simple.

Lipo 1 cell has 3.7V (1s), so 7.4V is 2 cell packet (2s), 11.1V is 3 cell packet (3s).

When you got for example 7.4V 3400mAh 20C packet, you can get from this
3.4*20 = 68A const, another packet, 5300mAh/50C -> 5.3*50= 265A

If more C then packet should be better.

Hope this help

Regards!
m

Chewwie

so i have a TC5R , which pack will fit just right
7.4v 2s or 11.1v 3s ?

RIP

7.4 2s, but you need this AE optional part - #31257

M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

It is optional part you need or not need
If you swap belts, it is better to use it and move holes outside for 7-8mm
or something like that :P

dragnse7en

Yep. I need that part too. No matter how tight I make the battery thumb screws, the battery shifts around. I was skeptical about the add-on part @ 1st, but a 2.5mm thick plate should be tall enuf to keep the lipo in place.

dragnse7en

On a different note . . . .

I was running my car last Sunday, and one of the screws that holds the front suspension arm mount came loose, fell out, and all hell broke loose.

Keep in mind, I bought this car off ebay as an assembled roller, virtually new w/o scratches or any wear. I have a TA05-R I bought new and used blue thread locking compound on all the screws fastened to metal parts.

After realizing I lost a spacer and two shims for the inner hinge pin, I decided to tear the car apart. I found at least a dozen other screws fastened to metal were very loose as well.

As I tore the rest of the chassis down, I noticed that whatever was used as a thread locking compound looked like CA glue; other screws had a cakey white powder on their threads.

Needless to say, I am rebuilding my kit from ground zero, and will be using the same TL compound as I did on my TA05-R.

I may or may not be barking up the right tree, however it needs to be said; substituting the right thing will only cost more later down the road!!!!

I use CA glue on a regular basis, for resin model kits and regular models, and have used it for decades.

CA glue is brittle when dry, and no matter how much is used, will crack apart under tension.

I highly suggest against substitutions, unless in a pinch at the track where it's only needed for a few heats.

M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

http://www.redrc.net/2010/06/exclusive-associated-tc6/

http://events.redrc.net/2010/06/new-...ssociated-tc6/

Now, Rick, question is how and which parts we can use from tc5 to tc6?

I mean, get new chassis and use old spares at new one.


For me, new tc6 is nice but ...

defcone

iTrader: (15)

If you read the report, it says arms and rear uprights and some other bits i forgot.