mr fit

are the xray c hubs compatible with mi4's front suspension. i switched to the short a-arms, now the cars is more stable. the c-hubs seem like a weak area. i know of people switching to xray c-hubs on other chassis, will it work on the mi-4? or should i try something else. the front end needs to be stronger. we are running a mod class on tarmac.

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

Thanks Martin
The majority of our racing is on dirt covered goat tracks, so anything that makes the car more stable, and more consistent has to be a good thing.

I had a chance to view the new car on friday night (Jim's) and i was quite surprised at the overall improvement from previous models. I am very surprised there isnt more chat about this car.
One thing i can see holding it back is not having a Gear Diff, Schuie is generally very proactive on new advancements im surprised there isnt one available. Is it in the works?
And before you say a gear diff isnt always the best option etc etc, remember racing on goat tracks, a ball diff is shot in 2-3 runs if your lucky.

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Brad, on the Adelaide goat track i have always been faster with a ball diff i but maybe that's just me not adjusting my lines to suit the gear diff. As for shot in 2 to 3 runs... I am now at 3 club meets and 2 practice days on my current CX diff build and the only reason i am rebuilding it this week is that i am too anal to let it go any further. Although it still feels very smooth curiosity has the better of me and i want to see whats happening inside.

Brokin Racing

iTrader: (74)

Hi BRADD, I knew you'd like it, very much up to Xray's quality

Quite a few folk looked at the car & liked it, especially the big bore shocks & how it all looked so good as an overall package

CA

Are you braking them? In all the years we have been using this hub i don't recall ever seeing a broken one.

SRW141

iTrader: (4)

I ran the Mi4LP all last summer at Jackson in 17.5 boosted and also ran some 13.5 boosted and never broke a single caster block. I even enlarged the hole in them to run xray ECS's.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

For all the hinge pins, arms, and pivot blocks I've mangled, I've only ever broken one chub. It was a "kit spec" one, which I think is harder than medium.

That said, both my cars always have a lot of slop in the chub on the hinge pin. I'm going to try drilling a hole for a grub screw against the outer hinge pin at some point.

-Mike

mr fit

This is the second time c hubs break. I barely touched the wall. Ever since i bought this car i have had nothing but bad luck. Yesterday the spool came loose. i thought it had broke. the screw backed out. I could never get the rear diff right. It either slips too much or makes the car spin out. This car is not easy to deal with. I like the car. I just wish it was more durable. All the other cars i have owned never gave me this much trouble. I was thinking of switching to the LP 2mm chassis for more flex, but after all this, i am not sure. I apologize if i am discouraging other mi-4 owners. This is not my intention. I guess this one is not working for me.

YZFAndy

In two years the only things i have broken is a belt, a driveshaft in its first lap and drive shaft blades on the lp. Not a problem on the cx. My mate has only ever broken a rear shock tower and a rear wishbone, both from very high speeds, and altitude There is another CX and Mi4 at our local track and i have seen the mi4 brake a spool cup after the blade come off but thats it.

Never seen a weak area in the mi4's. Its not indestructible like any of them but always different things on different cars.

olev

I guess it really depends on the type of track you run on. On track with a lot of boards or walls or whatever nice things you can "barely touch" at high speed it's really easy to break a front arm or C-hub (esp. CF ones), bend the lower inner hinge pin or do some other nasty damage. On a less "restrictive" track you can run for years with no breakage.
I dont think the Schumacher C-hubs break more easily than any other, especially the M ones we mainly use these days, I can't remember breaking any myself. I have done my fair share of CF ones, arms and even some steering knucles though.
One thing that definitely helps is to cut down your driveshafts so that they wouldn't protrude from the wheel nuts - less chance of damage when rubbing a wall at high speed.

mr fit

We do run at high speeds. I also have a corally rdx. Not as nimble as the mi 4 but strong as a tank. On this car i have only broken arms. I guess they don't make them like they used to. I have owned the mi-4 for about a year now and everytime i put it on the track something breaks. Nothing but frustration.

NiMo

Had a head on at meeting before last going in to a fast corner (I was doing at least 40mph at time), my LP suffered a bit:
Front spool snapped
Front shock tower split
Bumper and body mount split
Both front drive shafts badly bent
Whole chassis badly tweaked
Front roll bar bent
n/s front wheel shattered
n/s front suspension arm shattered in 3
Bent n/s suspension pin and retaining bolts to bulk head (holders were undamaged)
Hole in front of shell (at bumper level) from his o/s front wheel nut (yet shell not split).

But hub and castor block remained unmarked (standard LP parts)

Have now fitted CX spool and drive shafts

poochy

iTrader: (11)

just finished building the mi4cx and noticed the front outdrives is really close to the frnt sway bar--setting the cam to high settings doesnt stop the sway bar.from touching the outdrives on severe lean angles...am wondering where the error is?

also built the car per instructions-is this a real kit setup? do not see this set up matching the 3 setups in the back of the book??

GSM Storm

iTrader: (114)

Have you seated the outdrives over the "o" rings that are located in the grove on the spool.

Run the car as per the build instructions, it is a good place to start and go from there.

Regards
Gary

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

I drilled some 1.5mm holes in my shock caps tonight. The shocks are now totally "dead". There's no rebound, but the shaft also does not suck back in when built with low rebound. The shaft just stays where it stops. I can't wait to try 'em on the track on wednesday.

-Mike