Like Tree6Likes

Schumacher Mi4

Old 04-15-2011, 04:38 PM
  #2656  
Tech Master
iTrader: (74)
 
Brokin Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 1,327
Trader Rating: 74 (100%+)
Default

CX's first run on our (mainly used) zero grip track was quite EXCELLENT

Only gripe was car stepping out on power out of corners but I guess that's a combination of low grip, getting diff adjustment right & gorilla hands
Brokin Racing is offline  
Old 04-17-2011, 03:55 AM
  #2657  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
the catman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 72
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default sway bars and out drives

I had the same problem with the sway bars and the out drives so I rebent the bars to miss the out drives. You do how ever need to make sure that all the bends you make are the same for both sides and that the end result is that the bars are flat
the catman is offline  
Old 04-18-2011, 05:24 PM
  #2658  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 2,567
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

I haven't had any noticeable problems with the outdrives vs. swaybars in the front. I put the o-ring into the insert, then carefully put both over the outdrive. When it pops on, check inside to make sure the o-ring is seated before sliding on all the way. When I put the sliders on this way, I had absolutely no problems with them coming loose in 3 rounds of racing and a couple test runs.

-Mike
grippgoat is offline  
Old 04-21-2011, 09:52 AM
  #2659  
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
 
poochy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,508
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

dont have the car in front of me right now, does anybody know if the 4mm arm reamer is the correct size for the mi4cx?
poochy is offline  
Old 04-21-2011, 10:23 AM
  #2660  
Tech Adept
 
nutsisneat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 101
Default

Originally Posted by poochy
dont have the car in front of me right now, does anybody know if the 4mm arm reamer is the correct size for the mi4cx?
No, you will need a 3mm reamer...
nutsisneat is offline  
Old 04-21-2011, 11:21 AM
  #2661  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
 
jrxs-r's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 831
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

I think the correct size is 1/8" for the inner holes on the arm.
jrxs-r is offline  
Old 04-21-2011, 11:44 AM
  #2662  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
lochness42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: London, UK
Posts: 824
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jrxs-r
I think the correct size is 1/8" for the inner holes on the arm.
This is right answer
lochness42 is offline  
Old 04-23-2011, 01:47 PM
  #2663  
Tech Master
iTrader: (74)
 
Brokin Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 1,327
Trader Rating: 74 (100%+)
Default

Anyone have comments on the dual swing steering over the standard set-up?
Brokin Racing is offline  
Old 04-23-2011, 09:40 PM
  #2664  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 2,567
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

FYI, TC6 rod ends fit Schumacher balls very nicely.

-Mike
grippgoat is offline  
Old 04-23-2011, 10:03 PM
  #2665  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
 
jrxs-r's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 831
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Brokin Racing
Anyone have comments on the dual swing steering over the standard set-up?
The twin point steering offers a lot less akermann angle, and has a more direct/quicker steering. I have tried it, and have gone back to the standard steering setup for now till I get the car more dialed. The standard setup with 3mm spacers actually has the ideal ackermann angles (I took the time to photograph the car and photoshopped it to extend the steering lines and axle lines). The twin point steering intersect angles are forward of the rear axle line, so will offer a lot more steering.

My 2c...
jrxs-r is offline  
Old 04-24-2011, 12:15 AM
  #2666  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 217
Default

I have recently installed the twin point and find it a lot better. Steering is faster and more direct. I would also describe it as more linier throughout its full lock. This seems to give it the edge on consistency when pushing hard for me where the original system could make the car feel raggedy when pushing.

Admittedly the first few runs the car felt a bit edged with the twin point but you soon get used to that and now can't see myself going back to the original.
YZFAndy is offline  
Old 04-24-2011, 01:14 AM
  #2667  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 2,567
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by YZFAndy
I have recently installed the twin point and find it a lot better. Steering is faster and more direct. I would also describe it as more linier throughout its full lock. This seems to give it the edge on consistency when pushing hard for me where the original system could make the car feel raggedy when pushing.

Admittedly the first few runs the car felt a bit edged with the twin point but you soon get used to that and now can't see myself going back to the original.
Do you use any expo with the twin-point?

Do you think the reason it feels less raggedy could be a reduction in slop?

-Mike
grippgoat is offline  
Old 04-24-2011, 04:09 AM
  #2668  
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
 
poochy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,508
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by grippgoat
FYI, TC6 rod ends fit Schumacher balls very nicely.

-Mike
Mike, are you referring to the out of the ball severe ballcup bind on the ball when brand new out of the box?---FYI i was able to loosen up my ballcups by snapping the ballcup on and off the ball it is going on -about 6-8 times each cup did the trick-every ball cup, when new, was binding--unless the ballcup was damaged due to over tightening of the rod-those were replaced

the needle nose works great-but after the initial tightness is removed--sanp on/off a few times, needle nose squeezes, then a few more snap on/off will get them freed up.

-if the ballcups bind badly-like mine did on the frnt end will steer slow, losing steering

Last edited by poochy; 04-24-2011 at 07:21 AM.
poochy is offline  
Old 04-24-2011, 07:19 AM
  #2669  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 217
Default

Originally Posted by grippgoat
Do you use any expo with the twin-point?

Do you think the reason it feels less raggedy could be a reduction in slop?

-Mike
I don't used expo and believe if you have to use more than 5% to take the edge of the centre point something is wrong. And good luck finding any slop anywhere on my car as its something i hate and spend a lot of time getting ride of as i like a very direct car. So not that having an influence on things.

To me it seems like the original steering has a very negative expo curve to it now. My mate has my setup on his car and the only difference is the steering, so easy to do a back to back comparison. This is also why i think the twin point has a better feel because when pushing and chucking the steering lock to lock it stays consistent and doesn't get progressive more aggressive like a lot of negative expo would.

physically looking at the two you can see why this is. The original system, no matter what initial akerman you're running, gains akerman throughout its full movement, especially after the first 50% of travel. Probably explains why there is a lot more speed scrub with it too. The new system starts of with about the same amount of akerman, when using the 2nd hole compared to 3mm of spacers on the original, but stop or slows its gain after the first , say 20% of travel.

Last edited by YZFAndy; 04-24-2011 at 07:30 AM.
YZFAndy is offline  
Old 04-24-2011, 12:13 PM
  #2670  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 2,567
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by poochy
Mike, are you referring to the out of the ball severe ballcup bind on the ball when brand new out of the box
No, actually the opposite. My Mi4LP is over a year old, and the ball cups are sloppy. The Pro cups are like $12 for 8 from a-main, and not reliably in stock. I was looking for a cheaper alternative. $4 for 14 from a local hobby shop sounds good to me.

-Mike
grippgoat is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.