Vegaspilot

iTrader: (1)

John,

Thanks for the info. I'm still on the fence, but there seems to be a lot to like about the XB4. I have a bad habit of over tightening screws and the AE had some parts that strip pretty easily. Hoping the the XRay wouldn't have that problem. Just wish the parts support wasn't all mail order.

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

I normally run AE cars for off road but decided to give the XB4 a try. I can tell you with 100% certainty the Xray plastics are far, far superior to the AE plastics. I haven't had any issues stripping the plastic.

I've managed to break mine a total of 3 times now. 2 arms that were broken trying to clear a 25' quad jump with 20-25mph gusts of wind. And one rear bulkhead from landing the car upside down and on the rear tower. Not many cars could hope to survive that landing.

I've needed to carry far fewer spares with this car than any other I've had. We have two AE team drivers local to my track who break quite a bit compared to my car. I'm glad I picked the car I did.

RX313BT

iTrader: (14)

The first XB4 that our team ran had a rear wheel bearing failure after approx 15 batteries, when I built mine it does say in the manual to oil the bearings, so I put a couple of drops of bearing oil in each one, so far approx 10 batteries and they are still going strong, not sure if this makes a difference or not, but may be worth a shot if your bearing issues continue, if you dont do it already, I am new to 10th scale but could be possible that the heat from the slipper may have damaged the bearing if it was set to loose.

Cheers
Scott

.AJ.

I also oiled the bearings from the start with the specified Hudy oil so I know for sure it wasn't a maintance issue, it was just a failure. I just found it odd that also my mate running his XB4 had the same bearing go within minutes of mine. Luckily his didn't take out the spur as we only had 1 spare between us

Also my slipper is set to the revised spec supplied with the v2 kit, so hopefully heat transfer isn't a problem, but I will temp gun the slipper/bearings next time I run her and also double check the gap.

Does any know the spec of the stock bearings? Because I can get a full set of abec 3s pretty cheap from my local bearing supplier, there is no way I'm paying Xray prices for their set lol

BentKa

3rd and final leg of the B-finals in 4WD Buggy @ Väst-8.

Prior to this heat I had now changed the motor, sensor cable, ESC and soldered on an extra capacitor to the ESC.
Finally a heat with no issues with the car (just wish I had changed them all at the very beginning).

This time Malin quickly advanced to a 2nd position which she held until the 4 min mark. She then made a few small mistakes which saw the chasing group pass her. But with consistent and fast laps she managed to hold on to a 4th position for the last minute of the race

+ YouTube Video

Bent

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

I'm running mine with a lrp xxx tc spec and a reedy sonic 8.5 I'm having heat issues anyone have a gear /esc setting they would be willing to share ? Motor runs good for first 2-3min then fades out to about 80% power/rpm .
Comes off after 8min about 165. I'm running a 24t and have tried running down to a 21t I have motor @15deg

Mullet1

iTrader: (16)

looked thru a bunch of pages and didn't find the answer to my question.....

What is the absolute BEST motor and ESC to run in this car? Price isn't an issue.

Tekin stuff any good? (I use their stuff in my SC's and Buggies)

What Futaba servos work in this?

thanks

farm

Xray states that new Xb4 coming out from their factory have new diff outdrives.
Anyone have one xb4 with new outdrives?
I need a picture.

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

Mines not the best by a long shot but more reliable than most. HW V3 esc red/tekin gen 2 6.5 motor/ sanwa 92524 rx, promatch IP 6000 80C saddles, BLS451 futaba servo. BEST is a relative term, I want reliability in mine and the HW gives me that. Is it the absolute fastest don't think so but its super reliable and headache free and has some awesome features like remote off, throttle curves, blinky mode with a click etc....

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

Best motor and esc is tekin. But its a ford vs chevy type of question. It really comes down to what is best for you and what your personal preference is. Im using the kopropo one10 servo and love it. But the Bls451 is good too.

Mullet1

iTrader: (16)

so the redline 17.5 and RS Gen2?

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

I'd go with the Gen2 17.5 over the redline. There is quite a difference in power delivery.

Mullet1

iTrader: (16)

thanks

Gen2 17.5 and RS is what I meant.

corn_bread

iTrader: (41)

I have to say if your running 17.5 give murfdogg motors a try. the one my buddy runs is faster than the trinity d3.5 that is banned from roar. and he has been pleased and the customer service is awesome. for the same price you call them and they will help you pick a rotor and all to best suit your needs. great motors and outstanding customer service

seth556

iTrader: (43)

I've run the Orion, LRP, Tekin (shortly), and the HW. The HW and Orion are very similar since it's the same factory, but the new V3.1 is amazing. Best feeling speed control I've ever had. You can adjust things that you've never dreamed there'd be an adjustment for. The LRP is good because you set it up and it'll feel great, but if you want it slightly different there's not a whole lot of adjustment.

For motors it's all up to you, if you want something with crazy power then get a Trinity or LRP X20. If you want something very drivable and smooth then get a Reedy.

For servos I like the BLS 551 and KO one10, both really good low profile servos. If you want a full size there's the BLS 451. Also I'd recommend getting an 1/8 sized aluminum servo horn, I've stripped the plastic horn.

For spares it's hard to say, I have a box full of spares I bought so I'd be prepared. For the most part the box has stayed full and I haven't pulled anything out. Maybe get a set of arms (although I haven't heard of the rears breaking), rear bulkhead, and whatever else you think of.