rajiex

Just picked up a TC4 to run in a USVTA on asphalt. Any good setups or hop ups recommended. Decided to run this chasis to stay cheap.

rajiex

Just picked up a TC4 to run in a USVTA on asphalt. Any good setups or hop ups recommended. Decided to run this chassis to stay cheap.

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

petitrc.com will be your best bet. lots of good setups I like to run my roll centers as low as possible and long upper camber links for more roll

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Checkout post #10888 on page 726 for extra setup tips.
Remove the Shields out of your Bearings, and run Teflon sealed Bearings on your axles.. You'll thank me later....

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

After all these upgrades, I am anxious to test out my ride against the competition. My local track has not reopened back up yet !!!!! hahaha.....

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Happy new year everybody !!!

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

One more month until testing !!!

Geotechy18

Hey guys, it's been a while since I lasted posted, but have started taking another look at my tc4 to see what I could do to mod/improve it to compete with the tc5s, tc6s, cyclone tcs, etc. I have quite a few ideas, and was thinking about updating it with new part designs that work in the newest competition onroad cars.

As for anybody out there who has frequently gone up against the most competitive cars, what kind of improvements are you guys looking for in the ft tc4 or the tc4 club racer?

KC10Chief

iTrader: (1)

I run a TC6.1 World's Car. My club, like most of the other clubs in America, doesn't have any professional drivers. I bought the TC6.1 because I could afford it and like most people, was led to believe that it would make me faster. HA! My club is full of people with 6.1s and Xray T4s that totally suck at driving. I am a pretty patient driver. I don't hit the rails and I am never on my lid. Turn marshals never have to touch my car. The past few weeks, I've won every A-main. I rarely turn the fastest lap though. There's guys that can turn a faster lap. They just make more mistakes than I do. I'm consistent. My toughest competitor is a guy with a TC4 Club Racer that he bought used for $100. He's a good driver and makes few mistakes.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Checkout post# 10888 , page 726 , and read on from there for improvements..... Tc4's are fast when setup properly....

M3Armand

+1M...

I'm still kinda annoyed (but happy I have a new car) that I bought the HB TCX 2 years ago thinking that I would be faster after being out of the "racing scene" for a long time and was still running my old HPI RS4 Pro for 12 years or so. So now that I have both, I also RARELY hit the boards on an 8 minute race and am getting the SAME darn exact times using both cars that are supposedly 15 years apart in technology. This is on an 8 to 10 second lap (depending how good you are) size indoor carpet track in the 17.5 class. I've seen the pros do 8.2 sec fast lap and I've done 8.5 fast lap. Even more disturbing is that since money is no longer the limiting issue for me (vs. compared to 20 years ago, but now the wife is the limiting issue), I've purchased the absolute best 100C+ batteries to see if I can get better times than a cheap 40C battery. Guess what? Again, no difference in time. I do, however, notice a punch difference. In a much, much bigger and possibly tighter track, I can imagine a difference when running outside of 17.5 class.

So again, my limiting factor is the wife. She says I need to get rid of a few cars so that I can get a new TC4. I believe that the shaft drive would be more efficient than the belt and would have a "freer" drivetrain. I'd like to experiment to see if I prefer shaft vs. belt.

Having said that, at the non-pro level, I think a lot of these cars will be the same to us and the improvements are going to come down to, as always, practice practice practice, setup and drive line...

Billy20

I want a top of the line truck what should I get?

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

If you take the shields out of the tc4 Bearings, it will be the freest driveline of them all, which means you can gear taller without losing acceleration, no heat and more top speed... You can also reduce the rotational mass of the drivetrain for even more advantage, but remember that you can't gear the same as belt cars that have a lighter drivetrain but with more friction.... In my experience, I always have good results with the tc4 when I gear 0.4 to 0.5fdr higher than belt cars: if they gear at 4.0fdr , I gear my tc4 at 3.6fdr ... I also setup my ride to carry momentum around the corners, no braking.....

THEBIGBULL

iTrader: (5)

SO.....I guess what I'm looking for is....if you follow my interpretation...

Front (Front) arm mount 31064.......or triangle
Front (Rear) arm mount...31065...or circle

Rear (Front) arm mount..31066....or square
Rear (Rear) arm mount 31067 ......or X-3.0
(Optional) (Rear) arm mount 31069.......o X-2.0

I have found a complete set of 64,65,66,X-30...They are also described as
Triangle, circle, Square, X-30. Have I described this correctly for the parts I need to buy to reduce roll center on my TC4.

"NOW" Bearings, I just stripped the black coating from one of the large axle bearing. I am assuming this coating is rubber,It is very thin and and had to be scraped off with an Xacto knife. I'm not sure what the teflon coating looks like, A metal seal I think would be obvious. Below the rubber seal appears to be a pressed in metal seal or retainer for the bearing race????? I guess what I'm looking for is a description of the seal removal process. Thanks.

BE
TJ

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Xacto knife is good to remove the seals... The teflon Bearings(#6906) are just for the axles where you'll need shields because of dirt.... For the other parts, you are correct...