O.S. Vspec or Novarossi .21 bf limited?
05-05-2009, 05:40 PM
#47
05-05-2009, 06:52 PM
#50
Yeah I'm not too sure that the RE10 looks like the 2060 as close as the RE11 looks like a 2050. I have not had a chance to see them side by side in person but the RE10 is fatter in the center where the 2060 looks like it stays the same diameter the whole length...maybe the internals are similar?! The RE10 is definately longer in length than the JP3, JP4, 086 & 053 I have to the point that I had to cut out my body more to fit it.
I actually ran my trusty Ninja jx21 this weekend with the RE10 on it and liked it a LOT. It is solid everywhere in the powerband. Nice quality especially for only $60 & I like that its not chrome. Can't comment on runtime because I didn't time it. If I see somebody running a 2060 next time at the track, maybe I'll invite them to throw on the RE10 and see how they compare.
I actually ran my trusty Ninja jx21 this weekend with the RE10 on it and liked it a LOT. It is solid everywhere in the powerband. Nice quality especially for only $60 & I like that its not chrome. Can't comment on runtime because I didn't time it. If I see somebody running a 2060 next time at the track, maybe I'll invite them to throw on the RE10 and see how they compare.
05-05-2009, 07:15 PM
#51
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
I just broke in my nova bf21 friday and saturday morning. I run the dynamite 086 pipe with it. I raced it saturday night and did well with it. I ran against a couple of vspecs and they were all impressed with my $149 engine. Unless you are above the normal club racing competition the the nova is all you need. My lap times were right there with the vspecs. Driving is the most important out of the 2. Too much power can slow you down. I can buy 2 of these for the price of one vspec. Im by no means knocking the os vspec, its an awesome engine but if its not needed why spend double the money.
05-05-2009, 08:09 PM
#52
I just broke in my nova bf21 friday and saturday morning. I run the dynamite 086 pipe with it. I raced it saturday night and did well with it. I ran against a couple of vspecs and they were all impressed with my $149 engine. Unless you are above the normal club racing competition the the nova is all you need. My lap times were right there with the vspecs. Driving is the most important out of the 2. Too much power can slow you down. I can buy 2 of these for the price of one vspec. Im by no means knocking the os vspec, its an awesome engine but if its not needed why spend double the money.
05-05-2009, 11:02 PM
#53
A v-spec is definitely the way to go in my opinion. I have a v-spec on my st-rr and it hauls a$$. Im running a jp3, but it doesnt have the low-mid end power im looking for. Your guys' input helps. So the RE10 or RE11 seems like a good pipe to use with v-spec????
Im just getting back into Nitro rc racing so any help is appreciated
...Thanks
Im just getting back into Nitro rc racing so any help is appreciated
...Thanks
05-06-2009, 05:50 AM
#54
I'd like to add my 2 cents here. I have ran v specs for years. I bought a brand new one to start the season. After 1 1/2 gallons of fuel i started having some tuning issues. Took the motor out and realized the case had a crack in it. On the side right around the motor mounts. Now i really wasn't to upset with this because sometimes these things happen. After reading all the good reviews about the n21bf i thought for $150 I'm going to pick one up and give it a try. WOW am i glad i did! This engine will run with any stock v spec in a buggy. Don't let anyone tell you other wise. I have 2 gallon's on this little beast so far and it's still tight as could be. My v spec's after two gallons i could turn over fairly easy.
Either motor you choose you will probably be happy with. But if your choosing the v spec over the N21BF because you don't think you'll have enough power your making a mistake.
Either motor you choose you will probably be happy with. But if your choosing the v spec over the N21BF because you don't think you'll have enough power your making a mistake.
05-06-2009, 07:02 AM
#55
Rushing Break-in
Everyone has opinions and here's mine on the last post.....if your Vspec has lost pinch at the 2 gallon mark, you're not properly caring for your engine, PERIOD!
If you said you needed to change the rod or the bearings, I'd say yeah sometimes they do go that early, but the piston and sleeve...NO WAY!!! My Pro Twister Modded Vspec hasn't lost anything pinch-wise at over 6 gallons!!! And as much as Brian does w/ the mod, he isn't changing the alloys of the piston/sleeve nor pinching a brand new engine to mod it!
My engine was heat cycled religiously for the first gallon; a heat gun was used and needed to start her up. I did change to TKO Ceramic rear bearing at the 2 gallon mark (which is also around when I had it modded). At around 4 gallons I replaced the rod and decided to do the crank to and went with Speed versions. I recently thought my engine might be nearing the end of its life, as I was getting pulled by everyone down the front straight. I took it apart and it was beautiful inside, minor residue on the piston head and combustion chamber that wiped off with a paper towel. No slop in the rod so I put here back together to run it on a clean chassis to see if maybe I had a leaky front bearing....no that was good too. So why was I getting pulled on the straight, cuz I had stripped the hex on my rear wheel, effectively giving me a front wheel drive RC8T because of the diff action.
Factory defects do happen but I have yet to have any reliability issues from OS ever.... 2 Vspecs, OS 28XZ, and 3 or 4 OS 18CVRX's and the FS-18 which came stock on my TNX which is on OS produced mill. In fact I revived the engine from my first ever nitro the Kyosho Outlaw Rampage with th OS .12 CZ (or maybe CV, can't remember). This engine is from 1988 and it still runs!
And before I get
let me say YES I AM A LOYAL OS FAN!!!!
want to learn tuning?
If you said you needed to change the rod or the bearings, I'd say yeah sometimes they do go that early, but the piston and sleeve...NO WAY!!! My Pro Twister Modded Vspec hasn't lost anything pinch-wise at over 6 gallons!!! And as much as Brian does w/ the mod, he isn't changing the alloys of the piston/sleeve nor pinching a brand new engine to mod it!
My engine was heat cycled religiously for the first gallon; a heat gun was used and needed to start her up. I did change to TKO Ceramic rear bearing at the 2 gallon mark (which is also around when I had it modded). At around 4 gallons I replaced the rod and decided to do the crank to and went with Speed versions. I recently thought my engine might be nearing the end of its life, as I was getting pulled by everyone down the front straight. I took it apart and it was beautiful inside, minor residue on the piston head and combustion chamber that wiped off with a paper towel. No slop in the rod so I put here back together to run it on a clean chassis to see if maybe I had a leaky front bearing....no that was good too. So why was I getting pulled on the straight, cuz I had stripped the hex on my rear wheel, effectively giving me a front wheel drive RC8T because of the diff action.
Factory defects do happen but I have yet to have any reliability issues from OS ever.... 2 Vspecs, OS 28XZ, and 3 or 4 OS 18CVRX's and the FS-18 which came stock on my TNX which is on OS produced mill. In fact I revived the engine from my first ever nitro the Kyosho Outlaw Rampage with th OS .12 CZ (or maybe CV, can't remember). This engine is from 1988 and it still runs!
And before I get
let me say YES I AM A LOYAL OS FAN!!!!want to learn tuning?
05-06-2009, 09:03 AM
#56
Everyone has opinions and here's mine on the last post.....if your Vspec has lost pinch at the 2 gallon mark, you're not properly caring for your engine, PERIOD!
If you said you needed to change the rod or the bearings, I'd say yeah sometimes they do go that early, but the piston and sleeve...NO WAY!!! My Pro Twister Modded Vspec hasn't lost anything pinch-wise at over 6 gallons!!! And as much as Brian does w/ the mod, he isn't changing the alloys of the piston/sleeve nor pinching a brand new engine to mod it!
My engine was heat cycled religiously for the first gallon; a heat gun was used and needed to start her up. I did change to TKO Ceramic rear bearing at the 2 gallon mark (which is also around when I had it modded). At around 4 gallons I replaced the rod and decided to do the crank to and went with Speed versions. I recently thought my engine might be nearing the end of its life, as I was getting pulled by everyone down the front straight. I took it apart and it was beautiful inside, minor residue on the piston head and combustion chamber that wiped off with a paper towel. No slop in the rod so I put here back together to run it on a clean chassis to see if maybe I had a leaky front bearing....no that was good too. So why was I getting pulled on the straight, cuz I had stripped the hex on my rear wheel, effectively giving me a front wheel drive RC8T because of the diff action.
Factory defects do happen but I have yet to have any reliability issues from OS ever.... 2 Vspecs, OS 28XZ, and 3 or 4 OS 18CVRX's and the FS-18 which came stock on my TNX which is on OS produced mill. In fact I revived the engine from my first ever nitro the Kyosho Outlaw Rampage with th OS .12 CZ (or maybe CV, can't remember). This engine is from 1988 and it still runs!
And before I get let me say YES I AM A LOYAL OS FAN!!!!
want to learn tuning?
If you said you needed to change the rod or the bearings, I'd say yeah sometimes they do go that early, but the piston and sleeve...NO WAY!!! My Pro Twister Modded Vspec hasn't lost anything pinch-wise at over 6 gallons!!! And as much as Brian does w/ the mod, he isn't changing the alloys of the piston/sleeve nor pinching a brand new engine to mod it!
My engine was heat cycled religiously for the first gallon; a heat gun was used and needed to start her up. I did change to TKO Ceramic rear bearing at the 2 gallon mark (which is also around when I had it modded). At around 4 gallons I replaced the rod and decided to do the crank to and went with Speed versions. I recently thought my engine might be nearing the end of its life, as I was getting pulled by everyone down the front straight. I took it apart and it was beautiful inside, minor residue on the piston head and combustion chamber that wiped off with a paper towel. No slop in the rod so I put here back together to run it on a clean chassis to see if maybe I had a leaky front bearing....no that was good too. So why was I getting pulled on the straight, cuz I had stripped the hex on my rear wheel, effectively giving me a front wheel drive RC8T because of the diff action.
Factory defects do happen but I have yet to have any reliability issues from OS ever.... 2 Vspecs, OS 28XZ, and 3 or 4 OS 18CVRX's and the FS-18 which came stock on my TNX which is on OS produced mill. In fact I revived the engine from my first ever nitro the Kyosho Outlaw Rampage with th OS .12 CZ (or maybe CV, can't remember). This engine is from 1988 and it still runs!
And before I get
let me say YES I AM A LOYAL OS FAN!!!!want to learn tuning?
