monkeyracing.cz

F1 - WET RACE - final movie ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGdUO2V10L8

(Watch in HD)

and "Behind the scenes" ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gi7KE6zT-2I

Luosi

Very nice, well done.

mattwoodcraft

iTrader: (10)

coold vids i was wondering what you were doing to seal up the electronics and now i know

gsxr0311

iTrader: (19)

nice video, next time you should get more cars in a wet race and film it. cool though.

monkeyracing.cz

thanks! I have to find more fools like me to put car on wet track.
But now I have some arguments, my car is in perfect condition after doing that. Electronics was sealed with plastic wrap and all bearings sprayed with TF2 teflon lube before shooting video. And everything is ok.

lightfoot

iTrader: (2)

so so so so so so nice..........
The whole thing is so well done from capturing the images to editing and music... very impressive....

connyw

iTrader: (7)

Does anyone know where to buy Benson decals for F104Pro

A second question: what is best rubber tires on asphalt

lightfoot

iTrader: (2)

http://uf1series.com/_sub_pages/old_...re_review.html

connyw

iTrader: (7)

Now we talk tire test at a high level Thanks

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Steps 10 through 13 involve assembly of the servo saver and installation of the servo and electronics trays.

Parts for the famous or infamous Tamiya heavy duty servo saver

If you look carefully, I went back to step 9 and flipped the ball connectors on the aluminum servo horn. From my experience with the F04, I liked the way this setup felt on track. Additionally, this may help offset any ackerman effects that occur due to extreme tie rod angles. This is something that you should test on your own and decide which way feels better because of different driving styles and indvidual preferences on how the car should feel.

Servo installed

I trimmed off some plastic near the front front of the servo holders in case I want to play with additional steering geometry in the future I have in the past, but I actually prefer the stock servo position. This is one of those "just in case" moments.

Adjuster clearance


There's not much room, but the adjusters clear the servo and mounts with no binding or rubbing.

Also, I've given up on providing weight comparisons between stock and hop up hardware for individual steps. It's a work multiplier and slows down the build tremendously. Besides, I think we should get the idea by now; the car will be lighter than stock

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

I added a bunch of hopup goodies during the assembly of the upper deck.

Parts for step 14


Step 14 completed:

The aluminum body posts weigh a little more than the plastic ones, but these are pimp and are faster than the stock I swapped the titanium screw that holds the TRF415-7 antenna holder to an aluminum one...less weight and no stress on an antenna.


Parts for step 15

Not much to this step with four screws and two o-rings.
When attaching the upper deck to the chassis, make sure you use a flat surface to keep the chassis as flat and straight as possible while you tighten the screws.

Step 16 shows instuctions on attaching the R/C units to the chassis. Since I've already completed that step, this step no longer applies.

Steps 14-16 completed


It's starting to look like a car

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Attaching the front upper arm is straight foward with no drama.

Parts for step 17

During initial assembly, it will be easier to screw the ball connector nut to the chassis before you attach the front upper arms.

Step 17 completed

bgrick

iTrader: (11)

Was wondering what you do to prevent the lower pod plate from cracking from the screw to the nut on that side?

connyw

iTrader: (7)

Does anyone know where to buy different decals for F104Pro

Thanks

lightfoot

iTrader: (2)

D-Drive in Japan is a great source for F1 decals... they are on vacation till August 8th....

http://d-drivesportsenglish.com/