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Old 01-29-2013, 02:11 PM
  #19696  
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Originally Posted by JLTrinity
I use the sakura zero gear diff and its perfect.

How did you make the sakura diff work?
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:26 PM
  #19697  
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Originally Posted by JLTrinity
Hello!
Here are some pics of my modified cyclone tc, i called it cyclone tcj.
In my website you can read all the modifications and pics.
http://www.jlrteam.es/articulos/4/ho...uan-luis-roman

Best regards
Yes, I posted this weeks ago!
Regards
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:30 PM
  #19698  
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Gracias
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:09 PM
  #19699  
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Default Little twitchy in front at the snowbirds

What can I do to slow down the twitchy front end I'm try Corey setup he posted a while back I went from 37.5 oil to 50 white spring silver in rear 0 front block 3block in rear this and yes I'm driving the cyclone tc till I get my tcx lol
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:22 PM
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Any reason with a exotek hbx chassis that this car can not still be very competitive?

I guess with HPI continuing to support this car.. getting parts are not an issue?

James
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:22 PM
  #19701  
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dbl posted sorry.
James

Last edited by Bikerbob; 02-09-2013 at 05:50 AM. Reason: dbl post
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:16 AM
  #19702  
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This car should b more than enough to.be competitive for.almost any driver. Bought 2 thinking about running 2classes but decided on only 1. Its a great entry level car that gets me back into touring car without breaking the bank. I already had electronics so overall I spent only couple hundred to get going. would I like a new tcxx. Your darn right I would but until I start getting very consistent lap times and the used price drops below 350 then I am very happy with what I have. I don't even think youyou need the exotec chassis. just one that has either the lipo upper deck or the lipo mod done to it like the one I have for sale in the for sale forum.
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:07 AM
  #19703  
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What I liked about the Exotek chassis is that it turns the car into a modern TC.

One of the biggest drawbacks of buying a used car is you get something 4-5 years old, that was not DESIGNED for lipo and Brushless.. It my have been upgraded, or modded, etc. Weight put on.. things adjusted to work.

The HBX makes it a lipo car -with all the TC bits on it. Many people I talk to about getting something that I can still be competitive with the pack of drivers (I am not elite by any shake) is that getting something old you have to MAKE WORK puts you behind the eightball right away.

HB being a HPI company now.. I am more confident that I will be able to get parts.
I run TC3 for VTA - if I get a good a setup / favorable layout track, I am middle pack with the car.. but because of the lack of adjustment that car has - hard to beat really well setup cars even if I might be a bit better driver.

thats my thinking anyway.
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:39 AM
  #19704  
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Default Exotek HBX

Originally Posted by Bikerbob
What I liked about the Exotek chassis is that it turns the car into a modern TC.

One of the biggest drawbacks of buying a used car is you get something 4-5 years old, that was not DESIGNED for lipo and Brushless.. It my have been upgraded, or modded, etc. Weight put on.. things adjusted to work.

The HBX makes it a lipo car -with all the TC bits on it. Many people I talk to about getting something that I can still be competitive with the pack of drivers (I am not elite by any shake) is that getting something old you have to MAKE WORK puts you behind the eightball right away.

HB being a HPI company now.. I am more confident that I will be able to get parts.
I run TC3 for VTA - if I get a good a setup / favorable layout track, I am middle pack with the car.. but because of the lack of adjustment that car has - hard to beat really well setup cars even if I might be a bit better driver.

thats my thinking anyway.

I am actually in the process of converting a Cyclone S to the HBX chassis. I purchased the roller from another member on here and the chassis is on its way. My next step is to buy all of the Aluminum and Carbon Fiber pieces ( bulkheads, shock towers, etc..).

I do have some questions regarding the drive train however, the S has dogbones that I would like to upgrade to dcjs/cvds. Also, I would like to swap out the ball diffs for spool/one-way and gear diffs. Are the TCX/TCXX drive train parts compatible?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-28-2013, 10:12 PM
  #19705  
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Default Cyclone parts for sale.

I have a box of cyclone parts for sale. pm me for any needs. This is still a great car for vta and usgt.
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Old 10-02-2013, 06:19 AM
  #19706  
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Default Brushless Motor Mount 61329

Does anyone have an extra or know where I can get a brushless motor mount for my TC?? Part number 61329. Any help would be great, even if the part is across the pond.............Thanks...............jim
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:40 AM
  #19707  
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Just to be clear, you don't need the Brushless support to mount a brushless motor. This item only raises the central axle by 2mm so you can use bigger spur gears. You will need that if you are running a 4.5T because you will need a 1:9.5 ratio and a huge spur gear.

If you are running 21.5, 17.5, 13.5 or 10.5 the standard support is fine.
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:04 PM
  #19708  
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Originally Posted by Airwave
Just to be clear, you don't need the Brushless support to mount a brushless motor. This item only raises the central axle by 2mm so you can use bigger spur gears. You will need that if you are running a 4.5T because you will need a 1:9.5 ratio and a huge spur gear.

If you are running 21.5, 17.5, 13.5 or 10.5 the standard support is fine.
I was running 17.5 and I needed to grind out the inside of the mount where the can fits so I could slide the motor back far enough to get the pinion I needed to work......along with making the elongated motor bolt holes longer to get them in.
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Old 10-03-2013, 02:19 PM
  #19709  
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I mean, as fine as it could be... lol

You would have the same problem with BL motor support... It only raises the axle by 2mm... that's all...
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Old 10-03-2013, 04:02 PM
  #19710  
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Originally Posted by jgGonzo
I was running 17.5 and I needed to grind out the inside of the mount where the can fits so I could slide the motor back far enough to get the pinion I needed to work......along with making the elongated motor bolt holes longer to get them in.
You're using far too large of a spur gear.

edit: my mistake, if you are grinding to move the motor CLOSER to the spur, then you need a LARGER spur gear (and a larger pinion too, to get back to the same FDR you had before)

Last edited by slashdriver; 10-04-2013 at 06:40 AM.
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