Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

Grinch77....for the clicking sound or the drive train all bound up check and make sure that the piviot ball screws in the arms are not screwed too far into the hubs, if they are they will hit the axle and lock up the drive train or slow it down as they rub on the plastic axle. And the easiest way to get to the Diff adjustments is to take the hubs off the arms to get to the set screw and the adjustment screws. Good luck and I hope this helped you out.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Grinch77-Thats what I would check first too. An easy way to check for sure(because sometimes your eyes will fool you) is to take the tip of an exacto blade and try to pass it between the universal "bell"(round part) and the inside of the hub. If it stops without passing through, you either have plastic wedged in there from the screw being threaded in. Or the screw it self is making contact. Either way, its a bad thing. Be sure to check all four hubs.

Also, I believe its a common thing to soak the kit belts in WD-40 prior to installation. This helps to free the drive train too. But if your car is not even rolling on its own, you've got some binding in those hubs somewhere.

Truth be told, there is no "easy" way. Especially compare to some other cars on the market. But, what Kevin discribed is the least painful way to do it!

cornerspeed

Grinch- Is it possible that you have installed the layshaft mounts the incorrect way for which ever pulley your using. Check the car and the manual if you overlooked this.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

I'll give you the break down on why I chose the Mugen in a PM so that this can stay a great Schumacher thread.

Corey Bernardo

iTrader: (10)

ttt

johnbull

Happy Birthday Darkseid.

from Joe and Josh at JOHN BULL RACING - MALTA.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Johnbull: thanks. Haven't seen you over on the F1 thread in a while...come on over and drop some knowledge on us!

King-G

BUMP!...

wtf happened, monday morning and the thread was halfway down the page!

first time in a long time its been that low....the car must be working well for everyone...

anyone got news?...I didnt race yesterday, too busy working on my car audio.

My team mate continued our sucess in qualifying, taking another TQ..this is about the 4th-5th meet in a row now...some tangles in the finals prevented an outright win for him..but the car had alot of steering...actually a little unstable mid corner..(without the roll center mod!)

whos got news from their weekends racing?

Stika525

They're coming out with new delrin pulleys. Saw it on the site today.

James Nguyen

What do you guys do when cleaning your front mission one-ways?? What do you lube the one-way bearings with?

James Nguyen

[email protected]

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Yeah, I just noticed this new pulley thing on the team orion news spot on the front page.

Heres a quick thought about the new diff pulleys.....personally, I don't give a crap! There, that feels better.

I lost my best run of the day on both Sat. night and Sun. because-once again-that damned pulley fence fell off of the layshaft pulley! Now I know I'm not the only one who has had this problem. Many of us have tried snapping and re-snapping the thing on, glueing, and some even tried welding it in place. People running mod have actually spun the pin inside the pulley(forcing them to switch to the alloy pulley). That leaves them with the bonus of having two pulley fences instead of one....oh' joy! The actual assembly diagram for the layshaft shows the pulley fence with the raised ridge facing inward, but the final assembly diagram shows the ridge facing outward??? Whats the deal with that?

And with all this going on, Schumacher's focus is on the diff pulleys ........excuse me while I go bang my head on a wall................!

Dear Schumahcer: How about making 17t and 20t "one piece"(no pulley fences) pulleys. While your at it, why not make them use a longer engagement pin so that mod guys don't spin the hole in the pulley and have to switch to the alluminum pulleys. I'll be your first customer for these new pulleys!

To me, this car has only one real weak point, and thats the 17t and 20t pulleys. Fortunately, its one thats easily correctable. All Schumacher has to do is listen to common problems people are having, and address them.

Okay, I'm off my soap box......at least until the next time my car gives that horribly familiar slow..slow...crawl to a stop, that I've come to associate with the pulley fence popping off and the rear belt following suit.

Oh' and by the way, it doesn't feel all that great to hear people say "ha, ha, ha.......your belt fell off haaaaa, ha, ha, ha!"

grinch77

What is the deal with the battery mounting system you have to manhandle the battery strap to get the thing to seal right is there any way to make this easier?

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

grinch: it should go on and off smoothly. Heres some tips.

-If your using Sanyo 3000HV cells. Don't use the extra layer of shrink wrap! It may not seem like it make the pack bigger, but it does, by alot! If you leave it on, it will bend the post outward when you try to put in the pack. If you really want your extra shrink wrap, use a rotary tool to put slight dips in each post. That will let the cells fit easier.

-Put one thin metal washer under each post before you screw them to the chassis. This raises the post slightly, again, in an effort to better accomadate the HUGE 3000HV cells.

Good luck.

grinch77

thanks for the info has anyone filed down the battery slots to make the batteries sit lower in the chass?

JonB

I agree wholeheartedly about the pullies. I did have the fence thingie pop off once, but I found out I put it on wrong and it is extremely hard to put it on the right way, it should SNAP on TIGHT. But I have spun the little pin in the pulley, that sucked. Now I had to switch to the 20t pulley and I hope that one doesnt blow up too!