Eirik

I have tried it several times, but I always go back to have the arms flat as I am just as fast or faster.

I know Jilles and Viktor often runs with front anti-dive, so you should just try and see if it makes you faster or more comfortable with the car.

Running rear kick up was something I did not like at all, made the car strange to drive.
I did run with pro squat in the rear at a race some years ago, and it made my car 2/10th faster, got lots of on power steering. worked really well together with a one-way.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

I ran my smokem fx deck last night and wow what a difference. More steering and more rear grip compared to the tamiya lipo chassis and it changed direction better too

No the xray is 38t

It works good on some surfaces, other times it can make the car a bit loose. I normally prefer tweek

kschu

iTrader: (16)

can share how your apply the additive?

Senna Racing

iTrader: (2)

Tamiya t-shirts for sale $20 Aus Dollars plus postage

available in M to L and xl to xxl

Arahawak

iTrader: (32)

Thanks CraigM. Do you know then if there is alternative gear diff that we can use besides Spec-R?

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

3Racing make one too. I got an example of both when i picked up my latest X

As for additive, the Marc stuff has been on my table all year, but out of the three options (MarcR, Tweak and CS) I'vemostly ended up using CS, seemed to tail off less in a run...

HiH
Ed

Arahawak

iTrader: (32)

Thanks. I guess my question next is between the 3Racing and Spec-R, are they really any difference? in terms of built, quality, durability and ease of assembly when changing oils?

crabboy

iTrader: (58)

Ive tried both and the Spec R is by far better than the 3 Racing geardiff.
The 3 Racing diff always felt tight and notchy when built and the large gear is a VERY tight fit onto the shaft so tying to remove it out from the gear housing is near impossable.
The Spec R is made a bit cheaper but seems to be just as good and with the new X rings the leaking is now fixed.

Rhys

Eirik

I clean the tires with FX II or motorspray, then apply a thin even coat over the whole tire (also sidewalls) for about 40min.
If it's "cold" (below 25C) I will use warmers set to 50-55 deg.

Good Luck.

Eirik

stuartb

Does that mean you are racing Tamiya again?

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Agreed, a lot of guys I race with have been breaking rear belts with the 3R diff too, I had one snap after 2 runs

Stilo

I´ve broken 3 rear belts in like 50 heats with Spec-R diff, once the belt snapped and twice I stripped the belt and the center pulley. Waiting for the bigger aluminum center pulley in 417.

My TRF Lipo chassis is working great, still nothing to complain, only that after buying it the 417 is coming too soon...

Arahawak

iTrader: (32)

Why will snap the belts? Would lessen the tension of the belts help?

would the bigger center alu pulley help in preventing belt snaps?

Sorry for so many questions.. trying to learn the car.

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

The rear arms are pretty much run flat everywhere, the front anti dive is really a feel thing. Personally, I like the feel with antidive much better, especially in lower bite conditions. The only place I havent liked it is at The Coliseum, but the traction there is so ridiculous no standard setup stuff works there. Some like it, some dont, you just have to try it and see.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

I killed a rear belt with the Spec-R (w/5.5) too. I made the rear belt tighter than usual (two clicks on the cam from center) and that seemed to fix it. The drive train doesn't bind up either.