cerealstudio

And here are my pics of what I call the CerealStudio team. Red, black and white.

clayrace24

iTrader: (46)

Newbie to F104 racing here. For you guys that run in SoCal, what is a good rollout starting point for 21.5 and 17.5 motors on a 2S setup?

Thanks,

Clay

alan1467

Anyone know if the Team Bomber F104 chassis kit and the TRG dual damper kit will work together?

Jeff D.

iTrader: (1)

First, gorgeous car. Always loved the JPS scheme.

Second you must be a little younger. 1978 F1 champion with Andretti driving. And no I'm not that old. I was a kid then but still a fan.

lightfoot

iTrader: (2)

Who's going to the IIC Race in Vegas this year ?

I was talking to a group of folks this past weekend who are all going and the idea of running F1's as a 2nd class came up... Turns out Hiro knows Scotty... Hiro contacted Scotty... and here's the deal...

Scotty is willing to have a F1 rubber class if we can get 20 entries... This is totally doable considering people will be coming from around the Country...

So If your going to IIC this year and want to run F1 rubber, please add your name to this list and lets see if we can get 20.... Only put your name if your intending to go, writing your name down just to help the cause wont help Scotty gauge the turnout...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/californ...ll-so-cal.html

cerealstudio

Yeah, no doubt! Andretti gave that car/scheme world recognition, but there was something special about the bright-yellow-helmet-black-and-gold-livery that just blew my mind. Plus the fact that Senna drove with so much passion and aggressiveness made watching that car a spectacle every race.

Anyway, I'm glad you liked it. And I am 40, so not old, not young.

I also have a question for you or anyone else that can help me out. Under the hood I am running the Sidewinder Sport 5700kV System with the SV2 ESC, the DX3E Spektrum and a 5000mAh NiMH stick pack. A pretty sweet kit for a noob if you ask me but lo-and-behold the thing cogs. I went to local hobby shop and they told me there is pretty much nothing to do unless I buy a new LiPO set ($100 at least and that won't totally fix it, he said) so my question is: Would a LRP BEC Stabilizing Cap help a bit?

Sorry for the long post. Hope anyone can point me in the right direction.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

the cogging has nothing to do with your battery/receiver..its all in the speedo...if that speedo is sensorless (ie, not cable that plugs into the motor and esc - not te 3 wires), you'll have this problem...and judging from the way you explained it, i betting its a sensorless system

sadly, the person at your hobby shop is mis-informed that was what everyone used to experience when BL first came into play - that's why all sanctioned racing (roar, USVTA, etc) spec out sensored speedos

cerealstudio

Thanks k_



It is in fact sensorless, that was the term used the the HS....So, what are my options? BEC Stabilizing Capacitor? Changing whole electronic system? Throw the damn thing away?

Thanks again man.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

sadly, the easiest and quickest (more or less - but not cheapest), is to get a speedo combo like the SpeedPassion Cirtix...its sensored and will run ya about $80 at most online shops - when they are in stock

other then that, the only way to minimize the cogging is by tweaking the settings on the speedo...its a hit or miss thing, you'll have to keep tweaking until you feel its as close to gone as possible...

no changes to your radio system will help/hinder this - its all in the speedo...it mainly occurs because the speedo cannot (and i'm using loose layman's terms here, and i'm sure other will argue - but you should get the point) find where the rotor is in the motor...BL motors work differently then brushed stuff and i'm by no means an expert - just suffice to say, a sensored system helps the speedo 'find' where the rotor is while it's in motion..

not a great explanation, but hopefully enough to understand what's going on

kaybo

HeliYogi

iTrader: (17)

(Sent by the Circuit of the Americas, Austin, TX)

We want to thank you for your enthusiasm and support of the United States Grand Prix. ....

Council voted to delay taking action (to approve the GP) this past week, but all indications are they will provide the official endorsement once event contract details are finalized. We are ready to bring the world to Austin and you can help make that happen.

Take a moment today to send a message to Council Members through the AustinF1Facts.com website. Urge them to support endorsement of the race and let them know you want to see Formula 1 come to the U.S. once again. Council meets on Wednesday, June 29 to make its final vote, so send in your email today.

Thank you for helping Formula 1 in the U.S. cross the finish line!
Help spread the word about Circuit of The Americas! Please share this e-mail and forward it on.

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cerealstudio

It was a great explanation Kaybo, thanks! sadly, not with the content I was hoping to read!

LOL

I guess I can live with the cogging and try to reduce it via the CastleLink. Does anyone know of a good site explaining how the program works and recommendations on how to set up the car?

Again, thanks for your help guys, it feels good to know there are fellow enthusiasts willing to lend a hand.

Cheers all.

akura2

Actually K_bojar... with the Castle systems... Some cogging CAN be caused by the battery not putting out enough amperage.... I"m not telling you to shell out $100 for a LiPo, but if you can borrow a LiPo battery from a friend to try it out, do that first before you start changing a bunch of stuff... you can get LiPos from places like Hobby City and Hobby Partz.com for around $37 for a 50C 5000MaH LiPo..

NiMh batteries (especially stick packs) are known not to put out enough for some sensorless systems.. and it's been known for a long time that this can be the source for SOME cogging...

there are some programming tricks you can perform to remove some of the cogging... I can't remember them off hand, but call castle tech support and they can talk you through them..

cerealstudio: did you get the car new or was it used?... if it was used, not knowing the age and condition of the NiMh battery may pose a problem diagnosing the low amperage issue (if that's what it is)...

cerealstudio

hey Akura, great suggestion. I'll ask someone to lend me a LiPo and see if that helps. The batteries are brand new and I've tried it with 3 different ones with the same result.

I'll call castle tonight and will post if anything changes!

Thanks so much brothers, great help!

InspGadgt

Oh man that is so tempting...will have to think about it as I am already going to run 1/12th and WGT. Any idea what the rules would be?

lightfoot

iTrader: (2)

I would hope the rules would follow the UF1 realistic rules... 21.5 / non boost, rubber tires, 180mm maximum width... I hope it happens, we will see if there is enough interest...