freeway

iTrader: (1)

picked-up a kit and some ABC bodies, the LHS only got the drift version, didnt want it since i already got a 10th scale for drift but its really hard to refuse this thing.
the ABC body could be used with the short wheelbase so ill see how it goes since one of them (corolla levin) is new and gotta have the 510.

and im not allowed to post pics yet

Big Daddy Cool

iTrader: (15)

Inboard, Laydown. Seems to offer pretty good damping. Different spring rate from rear.

bigb11

iTrader: (59)

I have the 240Z body and want to put shocks up/down.

tc5basher

I have about finished my Cup racer build.
Before I purchased the kit I called HPI and asked what brushless setup would be best.
I was told a Castle mamba Max with a 5700 motor. When I tried to install the motor I noticed I couldn't get the gears to mesh with an 18 tooth pinion gear.
I called castle and asked about the gearing for the cup racer, and they said they would contact HPI.
I called HPI myself and was told the Mamba system will not work in the cup racer!
Now I was quite mad after blowing $215 on the mamba system as you can imagine.
It turns out after many phone calls to HPI, the cup racer can only handle a 19 turn brushed or equivalent brushless motor.
I have researched this issue and it seems LRP and Novak make such a setup.
I am really thinking of going with the Novak Havoc 17.5 esc/ motor combo.
Is this a good choice?

Xtant3150c

iTrader: (10)

I would be pissed at the shop that sold you the MM5700 without telling you anything.

But anyways. The Novak Havoc 17.5 should work fine in the Cup Racer. If you want more speed you could go with the 13.5 it will put you on the edge as far as the supposed 19t motor limit.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

What is the stock gearing on the Cup Racer?

I'm pretty sure the Cup Racer can handle more than a 19T durability wise, but would make it tough to drive I bet.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

unless I'm mistaken, 99% of all BL motors have multiple mounting positions - so it just a matter of trying to find the correct set of holes

You can throw a 2.5 motor in there and it will fit - gearing aside - so I'm a little confused at what the problem you had with HPI and Castle...

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

I am confused too. A good 19T is more like a 10.5BL and WAY faster than a 17.5 unless you have an HPI 19T .

In 1/12 4 cell a 19T is noticably faster than a 13.5 and would dust a 17.5 hands down, only a 10.5 can keep up.

rcracer1958

iTrader: (52)

Hey marvet, when and where is this Ray's challenge ?....i have my mini on order thru rich @ rampage already

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

Ray Murray's Challenge is Aug 15th and 16 in Tunersville, NJ - at the local Nifty Fifty's

addicted

iTrader: (76)

Lay down Bigb11.

Ran mine today but used the same springs as rear. had more front hop than Easter Bunny Changed the front springs to the other pair provided and eliminate 95% of the problem. Think by changing the front shock oil to the next weight up will completely solve the issue.

The drive train after a few laps bedded in and was quieter than i expected.

Car suffered from quiet severe front push . but after some tire changes it was suffering from too much grip Grrr More track time and testing.

I was running an equivalent to a TZ21t Car was well undered gear

Over all car is quiet impressive with stock set-up . Obviously this does need to be taylored to suit individuals. The only let down was build time, I found the parts seemed to be just placed in any bag/ order they felt to put them in.

freeway

iTrader: (1)

^^^ +1 on parts being all over the place/LOL, only managed to do the front and rear diffs into the chassis. i will try to put a MM4600kv in there and see if it fits and let you guys know. and i set it up for laydown in front.

Chiefy 707

Just wondering what motor/esc combos are you guys using? As well as battery packs too.

Late last year I got back into the hobby but focused on nitro on-road. I couldn't help but notice how much the electric scene has changed with the whole brushless lipo thing, yikes!

I'll be getting my Cup Racer tuesday but I still haven't decided on esc/motor/battery. My car will probably be doing double duty as 'once a month racecar' and 'while I'm at work bashing drifter'.
Right now I'm leaning more toward some sort of BL 17.5 setup. But crap man, I noticed the prices of ESC's have basically doubled from the last time I bought one. Being the relative noob, I have a couple of questions: is it true the Tekin RS requires a PC for setup? What ESC's work with both brushless and brushed as well as stock and mod?

Anyways thanks for any help!

tc5basher

Here's the issue: The cup racer uses a "ring" which you bolt to the motor.
According to HPI the smallest pinion you can use is a 25 tooth. The available spur gears are 65 and 67 only! Castle reccomends a 18 tooth pinion for my set up, but it won't mesh with such a small spur. You need more like a 87 tooth spur gear. So in order to go brushless i am stuck with a Noval or LRP setup, which is ok, but I need to figure out which motor will work best using a65 tooth spur and any pinion form 25 tooth to 39 tooth.
I really am leanig toward the Novak Havoc system becuase of price (its $80 cheaper). So the real question is which motor to get 21.5,17.5,15,13.5 or?

tc5basher

I too am trying to figure out which type of motor.
Just for your info a Mamba max will not work.
The Novak Havoc 17.5 motor/esc combo is where I think I am going. Price is great, only $149. I would go with SPc lipos for batteries.
HPI says a 5000 Mah 7.4 will fit. I just tried my maxamps 6000Mah 7.4 and it too fit, but I think I need to get hard case batteries for the Cup Racer.