Jeremy Otis

Is there a new V2 LV version?

Where can I send my V1 LV for an upgrade?

Thanks

Me_MrTyson

iTrader: (11)

Hey Jeremy,

Currently the version on sale round the world is a LV version, this has 4 screw holes on the heatsink which allows an external fan to cool the BD down to run more mod speed motors.

one of the first changes some people are doing with these version is putting lower guage wiring to take lower turn motors. ( http://www.tqracing.com/13%20gauge.htm )

However in testing 7.5 has found to be as fast as 4.5 or 5.5 depending on the track / setup / driver.

Also the newer factory version v2.1 (so to speak) flash on profile 1 ready should you want to stock race I guess they must be to ahear for ROAR rules..

On there website there is an email address for you to use.

The guys are very helpful, and respond very quickly.

http://www.advanced-electronics.se/indexrc.html

look at the bottom of the page

rack

iTrader: (68)

I tryed my BD V1 today that has been upgraded to the BD V2 it did make a big difference it is faster. I am very happy with it.

Jeremy Otis

Thanks,

Where did you send to get it upgraded? How much did it cost?

rack

iTrader: (68)

email : [email protected]
they were very helpful

modeltech

For the time being all firmware upgrades are only being done at the factory, so you need to send the speedo back to them. Allow approx 3-5 days shipping each way for the update! Contact the factory before sending your esc in.

I have seen a few comments/questions about V2.0 and V2.1 firmware - they are absolutely identical power profiles. The only difference is that the v2.1 is intended to meet the upcoming (??) ROAR requirement for a visual indicator to show the speedo is in zero timing advance mode. On the BD this means that when set to mode 1 (zero timing) the blue LED will flash constantly, whereas in the V2.0 firmware it remains on solid blue in mode 1. V2.x firmware mode 5 now has 40deg timing advance with matching dynamic timing curve changes to keep it smooth all the way up.

Regarding the test for V1.0 and V2.0 firmware - when changing the throttle mode and releasing the setup button in V1.0 the blue LED will first flash the mode you WERE IN, pause then flash the mode you are NOW IN. So for example if you were in mode 3 and changed to mode 4, after going into throttle setup mode, pressing the setup button then releasing it, in V1.0 firmware it will flash 3, pause then flash 4, pause then flash 4 and so on. In V2.0 firmware on releasing the setup button it will pause, then flash 4, pause flash 4 and so on. The only mode this "rule" does not apply is when going from mode 5 to mode 1!

User upgradeable firmware capability is due to be released in the Autumn of 2010 along with a new Open Modified version ESC, which will also be slightly larger. They are also looking at producing a fully sealed version for off-road use and on-road wet weather protection!

Mike

Skiddins

Mike, which firmware version do you carry in stock at the moment?

Me_MrTyson

iTrader: (11)

After a little testing this information should help in v2 software, Mike touched on it before in this thread.

Power Profile (blue solid light)

1 - Stock Spec 0 degree timing (v2.1 this included's a flashing light)
2 - 10 degrees Timing
3 - 20 degrees Timing
4 - 30 degrees Timing
5 - 40 degrees Timing

During some recent testing my Novak Ballistic went POP, reason for this is as follows

Novak Motor Timing out of the factory is 30 degrees so you add 40 + 30 and the motor was running 70 degrees of timing..

In the past always run the Novak will just a little bit of extra timing so had about 80 degress of timing on the motor.

The advice given to me was never go above 60 degrees.

There is an easy way to spot this over timing, the motor rev's crazy feels quick but not so smooth anymore.

Heats up very quick (few laps) no matter what gearing you use.

tellan

4 holes in heat sink ver 2.

I ran 1s Novak ballastic 10.5 in 1/12th pan.

Motor is factory setting as regards timing which is 30 degrees.
First run, 58mm roll out profile 4 ,brake 1. Car was a shed at first i thought i had put a flat battery in car.
Also at 1 brake is totally non effective.

Second run up too profile 5 and brake 2 same roll out no real change .East to drive as car was slow.

Third run same settings up motor to 60m rollout slight improvement but still over 1/2 second off my tekin pace.

Last run run uped rollout to 64mm and motor just cogged. Took it out and fitted my tekin besy lap was then 12.66 as against 13.18 with BD

Will try it again but dont know where to go really.

Any help would be appreciated, I do have a GM 10.5.

VINNY

Me_MrTyson

iTrader: (11)

Vinny I am shocked by your results..

This weekend we had a the pace at the State titles just not a good setup..

When we found the setup the pace was very quick.

We even ran the BD with 6.5t profile 4 and the motor was cooler than the ESC..

the track / air temp was round 18 degrees and BD came off at 155f no problem so they are durable even with 16 guage wires

andrew188

Hi Vinny, I am not familiar with GM 10.5T, but with other brand 10.5T motors, I had to gear it around 4.6 to 5.3 final grear ratio in my TC. Try Profile 5 instead of 4, if you need more power. BD need approx 7-8 tooth larger on the pinion as compared to the Tekin, in my TC. I suspect you undergeared by quite a bit. Try using much larger pinion and see if the result is better. Be sure to temp your motors every 2-3 laps whenever you change the setting, to ensure the motor doesn't get too hot.

I have done very extensive testings with Tekin, LRP and BD, and I found BD to be the fastest of all, and also drives the best.

weekendracer_uk

Has anyone run an LRP x12 13.5 with the BD ? if so what timming on the motor seemed to work well in a touring car ?

Jeremy Otis

At the ROAR 2010 Carpet National Yari Taskila TQ'd the 13.5 12th scale class with an LRP X12 and BD version 1. This was a very strong class that included Chicarelo, Darech, Trandel, Blackstock ect.

Not sure on the rollout or motor timing? Yari this is where you chime in. LOL

Me_MrTyson

iTrader: (11)

Hey,

We don't really run 13.5 as a Class where I am, however for my testing of lrp if you are running v2 go profile 4 over 5, (30 degree) timing smoothen out the torque drivery with loosing any torque.

in 10.5 we are running anything (track depending) from 5.0-5.8 FDR

Would also run oooo that seems the norm however check temps I think oo is possible with profile 4

With v1 shall say profile 4 too in my 12th scale 10.5 lrp profile 4 made the much better to drive. Otherwise it rockets out of corners on a wave of torque.

Skiddins

Is it true 30deg on those motors, or 30deg on top of the normal level of timing.

I.e. does the inside look like the following picutre with regard to the sensors;