Tamiya mini cooper
#9706
Jim,
I have tried the harder springs front and softer rear. This does work, however for us here using the HW BL system the car spins the front wheeels for too long, due to the lack of traction. With the springs reversed the car has more forward bite and now gets off the mark, just as fast as the MO3. I did experiment with changing the punch setting in the BL speedie and all it caused was for the other racers using MO3's to leave me behind from the corners.
We have also found that what type of rim and tyre you use can affect the handling of the car. A grippy tyre on a flexible rim,(HPI,spice) can cause the car to flip over, whereas you put the same combination on a less flexible rim,(Tamiya,Ride,Yeah) etc and the car will remain upright and solid on the track. This is something we will be testing in the future.
The advantage of the MO5 at present though is that the car can still be run at a lighter weight than the MO3. The other is being able to run some really cool mini shells.
Hyper_Mike,
It will be good to hear your impressions on your car and tyres.
It is great to see some good input on this thread. I suggest that you have a look at these photo's on the Malaysian mini thread on pages three and four:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/malaysia...ver-m05-4.html
He has done some neat changes to his MO5, not sure if some would be legal for most, however he is trying lots of good things.
Regards,
Calvin.
I have tried the harder springs front and softer rear. This does work, however for us here using the HW BL system the car spins the front wheeels for too long, due to the lack of traction. With the springs reversed the car has more forward bite and now gets off the mark, just as fast as the MO3. I did experiment with changing the punch setting in the BL speedie and all it caused was for the other racers using MO3's to leave me behind from the corners.
We have also found that what type of rim and tyre you use can affect the handling of the car. A grippy tyre on a flexible rim,(HPI,spice) can cause the car to flip over, whereas you put the same combination on a less flexible rim,(Tamiya,Ride,Yeah) etc and the car will remain upright and solid on the track. This is something we will be testing in the future.
The advantage of the MO5 at present though is that the car can still be run at a lighter weight than the MO3. The other is being able to run some really cool mini shells.
Hyper_Mike,
It will be good to hear your impressions on your car and tyres.
It is great to see some good input on this thread. I suggest that you have a look at these photo's on the Malaysian mini thread on pages three and four:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/malaysia...ver-m05-4.html
He has done some neat changes to his MO5, not sure if some would be legal for most, however he is trying lots of good things.
Regards,
Calvin.
#9708
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
M-05 Experience
Well, last night went pretty well for my maiden run with the M-05. The following is what I tried and how it worked but, as they say, your mileage may vary
I started the night out with the car built out of the box with TRF mini dampers using 2-hole pistons and 40WT with (I think) 2 O-rings inside on all 4 corners to limit droop (resulted in about 4mm ride height with little to no droop). I ran the kit-setup springs of Yellow FR and Blue RR. Also I run Orion 3400 lipos with NO weight added so my total weight including a VERY heavy body was 1235 grams.
The first heat I tried my old Ride tires with Ride inserts. This was a tire setup from my M-03 so they were hard compound w/ hard insert FR and medium compound with soft insert RR. This worked very well but resulted in a little too much push both on throttle and off throttle. It was very forgiving and didn't even hint at traction rolling.
The next heat I tried the new RP Mini tires I had picked up using 36R with medium Ride insert FR and 30R with medium Ride insert RR. The car had ridiculous amounts of traction and corner speed but was really easy to traction roll, even with my Dual Rates turned down to 80%. The car was significantly faster than the first round but way too difficult to drive!
Next I tried some Tamiya tires. They are the 55-series treaded radial tires from the latest Mini Cooper kit (I think!) with soft (blue) tamiya inserts all around. These were very good, much like the Ride tires but with a bit more steering and almost no traction rolling. Still not as fast though as the RP Tires.
In the Main I went back to the RP tires (same configuration) as above but with some weight added to the chassis and battery. I put 42g in the center top of the chassis (right behind the motor) and 14g on the right battery "wing" (the car is significantly left-biased for weight) plus another 28g on the bottom-center of the battery. I sauced full RR and 1/2 FR and turned my Dual Rates down to 75%. The car was very dialed now with all the traction of the second heat but with almost no tendency to traction roll . This was just about the best mini I've every had to drive and I managed to get 2nd overall for the night.
So from my experience so far I think the M-05 works well with the stiffer springs on the back and with either the same tires all around with slightly harder inserts on the front OR slightly harder tires on the front with similar inserts all around.
Sorry for the long post, but I just wanted to share my experiences fully!
Cheers,
Mike
I started the night out with the car built out of the box with TRF mini dampers using 2-hole pistons and 40WT with (I think) 2 O-rings inside on all 4 corners to limit droop (resulted in about 4mm ride height with little to no droop). I ran the kit-setup springs of Yellow FR and Blue RR. Also I run Orion 3400 lipos with NO weight added so my total weight including a VERY heavy body was 1235 grams.
The first heat I tried my old Ride tires with Ride inserts. This was a tire setup from my M-03 so they were hard compound w/ hard insert FR and medium compound with soft insert RR. This worked very well but resulted in a little too much push both on throttle and off throttle. It was very forgiving and didn't even hint at traction rolling.
The next heat I tried the new RP Mini tires I had picked up using 36R with medium Ride insert FR and 30R with medium Ride insert RR. The car had ridiculous amounts of traction and corner speed but was really easy to traction roll, even with my Dual Rates turned down to 80%. The car was significantly faster than the first round but way too difficult to drive!
Next I tried some Tamiya tires. They are the 55-series treaded radial tires from the latest Mini Cooper kit (I think!) with soft (blue) tamiya inserts all around. These were very good, much like the Ride tires but with a bit more steering and almost no traction rolling. Still not as fast though as the RP Tires.
In the Main I went back to the RP tires (same configuration) as above but with some weight added to the chassis and battery. I put 42g in the center top of the chassis (right behind the motor) and 14g on the right battery "wing" (the car is significantly left-biased for weight) plus another 28g on the bottom-center of the battery. I sauced full RR and 1/2 FR and turned my Dual Rates down to 75%. The car was very dialed now with all the traction of the second heat but with almost no tendency to traction roll . This was just about the best mini I've every had to drive and I managed to get 2nd overall for the night.
So from my experience so far I think the M-05 works well with the stiffer springs on the back and with either the same tires all around with slightly harder inserts on the front OR slightly harder tires on the front with similar inserts all around.
Sorry for the long post, but I just wanted to share my experiences fully!
Cheers,
Mike
#9709
Man, all you guys seem to know your stuff! I bought and m03 and just put it together to race on Sunday. What r mods would you suggest? I was thinking ball diff,bearings and sway bars. Think I should do shocks instead of sway bars?
#9710
Bearings are a must, most people prefer the ball diff and unis.
Most of the other stuff won't make much difference, read the build and race setup guide at rcmini.net and you're well on your way.
Most of the other stuff won't make much difference, read the build and race setup guide at rcmini.net and you're well on your way.
#9711
was wondering if any body ever uses extra shims in the standard kit diff
for the m03's to tighten the diff up & if so do you use any grease between the shims? thanks for any advice
for the m03's to tighten the diff up & if so do you use any grease between the shims? thanks for any advice
#9712
shannon
#9713
Tech Champion
iTrader: (35)
clayton more washers you are bound to strip you thread on your diff.a few people myself included take one of the 4mm disc spring washers out .that will tighten your diff up a bit,and use some grease .i also put a tiny bit of loctite on the shread before tightening.
shannon
shannon
I think Clayton is talking about the gear diff .."standard kit diff"
Yes you can add extra shims to tighten up the diff
#9714
thanks fellas, do you put anti-wear grease or anything else between the
shims?
shims?
#9715
clayton,
You could build your gear diff as per instructions and accidently drop some superglue in it. Spools seem to be popular and work at most tracks around Sydney. They certainly give more pull out of the corners. Just need to drive alittle bit differently.
I can tell you Col has been giving me a hard time at Penrith on Mon nights with one fitted in his mini. The thing accelerates very hard out of the corners, more so than a tight ball diff/tight gear diff.
Yes, it does put additional strain on the outdrives etc, but if you want to be competitive its a small cost. Something I will be trying in the very near future.
Regards,
Calvin.
You could build your gear diff as per instructions and accidently drop some superglue in it. Spools seem to be popular and work at most tracks around Sydney. They certainly give more pull out of the corners. Just need to drive alittle bit differently.
I can tell you Col has been giving me a hard time at Penrith on Mon nights with one fitted in his mini. The thing accelerates very hard out of the corners, more so than a tight ball diff/tight gear diff.
Yes, it does put additional strain on the outdrives etc, but if you want to be competitive its a small cost. Something I will be trying in the very near future.
Regards,
Calvin.
#9716
clayton,
I still use anti-wear grease on the gear diff parts as well as the shims. Most time I run a tight ball diff, however I am going to try a tight gear diff on Friday night and see if this works. This might be a cheaper option than the ball diff.
Regards,
Calvin.
I still use anti-wear grease on the gear diff parts as well as the shims. Most time I run a tight ball diff, however I am going to try a tight gear diff on Friday night and see if this works. This might be a cheaper option than the ball diff.
Regards,
Calvin.
#9717
thanks again for the advice guys, have a couple of spare gear diffs so i might
lock one up & give it a go
lock one up & give it a go
#9718
clayton,
I'm sure a couple of the mini racers at Castlehill use spools in there mini's. You should ask them what they think. You might be surprised. If the gear diff does not work Friday night, then I will be trying a spool.
Later,
Calvin.
I'm sure a couple of the mini racers at Castlehill use spools in there mini's. You should ask them what they think. You might be surprised. If the gear diff does not work Friday night, then I will be trying a spool.
Later,
Calvin.
#9720
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
It must be easier to get away with a locked diff. on outdoor or asphalt tracks rather than carpet. My diff was quite locked up this weekend and the car wouldn't corner worth a damn.
I had to put lots of extra angle into the steering to get it around the corners, all this leads to is tire wear.
Jim
I had to put lots of extra angle into the steering to get it around the corners, all this leads to is tire wear.
Jim