4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
08-14-2008, 02:31 PM
#2718
less work.can you tell im lazy?
08-14-2008, 02:40 PM
#2719
anyone know the size difference with the 416 axles..and the old axles?
also.. has anyone tried the old style steering knuckle and rear hub on the 416 and notice any performance difference? im curious about running it since i have a TON of spares from the old car (the one that uses the 5x9 bearing)
also.. has anyone tried the old style steering knuckle and rear hub on the 416 and notice any performance difference? im curious about running it since i have a TON of spares from the old car (the one that uses the 5x9 bearing)
08-17-2008, 02:41 AM
#2720
Does lowering the front hubs do anything handling wise?
In other news, I rebuilt my shocks with 50% rebound and it really calmed the car down. It's just great now, really bolted to the track and as Ed mentioned on the site using the foam bushings mean you don't lose much in quick directional changes
In other news, I rebuilt my shocks with 50% rebound and it really calmed the car down. It's just great now, really bolted to the track and as Ed mentioned on the site using the foam bushings mean you don't lose much in quick directional changes
08-17-2008, 08:24 AM
#2721
Tech Rookie
Hey Guys,
Got a question regarding the TRF416. I used to run the 415 series of the car and I always found the car had a lot of chatter with a spool - practically impossible to drive and just wrecked the CVDs. How is the TRF416 with chatter with the spool and in general how does to car go in regards to wear and tear?
My final two questions, how is the car from a setup point of view - is it fairly 'easy' to setup in terms of having a wide setup window? Finally - is the car consistent generally in terms of handling from run to run? I've not run any of the later TRF cars and am looking at getting back into it in Modified.
I'd appreciate any assistance you could give.
Got a question regarding the TRF416. I used to run the 415 series of the car and I always found the car had a lot of chatter with a spool - practically impossible to drive and just wrecked the CVDs. How is the TRF416 with chatter with the spool and in general how does to car go in regards to wear and tear?
My final two questions, how is the car from a setup point of view - is it fairly 'easy' to setup in terms of having a wide setup window? Finally - is the car consistent generally in terms of handling from run to run? I've not run any of the later TRF cars and am looking at getting back into it in Modified.
I'd appreciate any assistance you could give.
08-18-2008, 01:58 AM
#2722
just wondering,i order some spare rear upright with the code 51333,once i got them i realize that they are not the same like the one that came with the kit.
looks like that it takes the 9050 bearings and not the 1050.
can anyone explain?
thanx
looks like that it takes the 9050 bearings and not the 1050.
can anyone explain?
thanx
08-18-2008, 05:14 AM
#2723
Hi,
the right ones (1050 Bearings) are the 51333 TRF416 Rear Upright
the wrong ones (950 Bearing) are: 51105 TB Evolution IV E-Parts (Rear Upright)
the right ones (1050 Bearings) are the 51333 TRF416 Rear Upright
the wrong ones (950 Bearing) are: 51105 TB Evolution IV E-Parts (Rear Upright)
08-18-2008, 08:05 AM
#2724
well,this are the one i ordered and are not the proper one
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-trf...h=595_744_1230
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-trf...h=595_744_1230
08-18-2008, 11:31 AM
#2725
I noticed that the car does not have full steering lock even though I have cranked up the steering travel all the way on my radio. Any ideas? Thanks.
08-18-2008, 12:20 PM
#2727
well,this are the one i ordered and are not the proper one
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-trf...h=595_744_1230
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-trf...h=595_744_1230
HiH
Ed
08-18-2008, 12:37 PM
#2728
I can still happily get the car turned round within a track width though (I have about 17° of lock each side max). If your running too much lock, you'll just be scrubbing the fronts through the turns... so you'll need to change your setup to help give the car more front end.
HiH
Ed
08-18-2008, 12:47 PM
#2729
Thanks ED for your quick response. I am using an aftermarket servo saver. So if I use the stock Tamiya one, I will have full steering?
08-18-2008, 01:57 PM
#2730
Also, to get equal side to side, when the steering is centred, the horn should be slightly canted intowards the car... I'll quote this from another forum
Running through my method for setting up steering.
First thing to do is make sure the tie-rods are the same length. You should never run unequal length links (unless you have an old xray with an off centre mounted steering system), as this will mean you don't get equal steering side to side.
Then I'll make sure that the tie rod to the steering systems is at a perpendicular (90°) angle to the servo horn. This is allow the steering to have equal steering throw side to side. On my 416 (and 415 previous to that), that means that when the steering is centred, the top of the horn is pointing in towards the centre line of the car. Adjust the position of the horn by firstly zeroing the servo then lining the horn up on the spline closest, then adjust your sub trim till at the right angle.
Then attach it all up and place on the gauges (making sure to push the wheels back). First job is to get the steering straight. Adjust the servo horn tierod until there is equal toe both sides. When thats achieved, you should then be able to adjust the L/R steering tie-rods equal amounts to obtain your required level of toe. I also check the steering throw levels on the gauges, which I can then fine tune using EPA adjust on the tranny (although if everything else is right, it shouldn't need much, if any tuning).
Now the steering should be dead straight, with equal side to side throw, and the required level of toe.
Sounds like a lot to start with, but once you've worked through it a couple of times, it becomes pretty easy to figure out.
First thing to do is make sure the tie-rods are the same length. You should never run unequal length links (unless you have an old xray with an off centre mounted steering system), as this will mean you don't get equal steering side to side.
Then I'll make sure that the tie rod to the steering systems is at a perpendicular (90°) angle to the servo horn. This is allow the steering to have equal steering throw side to side. On my 416 (and 415 previous to that), that means that when the steering is centred, the top of the horn is pointing in towards the centre line of the car. Adjust the position of the horn by firstly zeroing the servo then lining the horn up on the spline closest, then adjust your sub trim till at the right angle.
Then attach it all up and place on the gauges (making sure to push the wheels back). First job is to get the steering straight. Adjust the servo horn tierod until there is equal toe both sides. When thats achieved, you should then be able to adjust the L/R steering tie-rods equal amounts to obtain your required level of toe. I also check the steering throw levels on the gauges, which I can then fine tune using EPA adjust on the tranny (although if everything else is right, it shouldn't need much, if any tuning).
Now the steering should be dead straight, with equal side to side throw, and the required level of toe.
Sounds like a lot to start with, but once you've worked through it a couple of times, it becomes pretty easy to figure out.
Ed