Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X >

Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Like Tree4Likes

Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 01-28-2009, 12:45 PM
  #4216  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
 
RC MARKET's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: HK
Posts: 6,279
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

i'm touch Marc , Hara ... car ,
all car is around 2mm flow only ,
isn't posted in setup sheet data !
RC MARKET is offline  
Old 01-28-2009, 12:54 PM
  #4217  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
JCarr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dayton,OH
Posts: 1,655
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by TryHard
what happened there is that you "rode the droop screw" I've had it a few times before, where basically, as you go through a corner highly loaded, and then try and turn some more, the inside suspension hits the droop screw, which rapidly unloads the tyre causing the car to snap round.

Droop is basically a compromise, between running enough so you generate enough weight transfer, (so you don't ride the screws), and not so much that you have huge amounts of weight transfer... it seems that between 4-6mm on a gauge is pretty much the range to be working in on the 416

HiH
Ed
That makes sense, never thought about it that way. I'm not sure exactly how much droop I am running, don't have the tools to measure. Thanks for the great info though, I'm learning a lot here.
JCarr is offline  
Old 01-28-2009, 01:05 PM
  #4218  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: MI
Posts: 1,544
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Im pretty sure he said he put the thicker shim in back of the front .. But whatever ...
John St.Amant is offline  
Old 01-28-2009, 01:18 PM
  #4219  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Posts: 5,389
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by John St.Amant
Im pretty sure he said he put the thicker shim in back of the front .. But whatever ...
Yup, he did... in italics below

Originally Posted by CraigM
Last night I made the following changes:
  • Raised the front rc and added some anti dive (.5 under the front front block and 1mm under the front rear)
  • Put the HPI blue springs on the rear
  • Went from 400wt to 450wt oil all around, with 2mm rebound and no foam spacers
  • Shortened the rear wheelbase by 1.5mm
So with 0.5mm on the FF block, and 1mm FR block, that gives 0.5mm differnce in height, with the front arm pointing down at the front. That's Anti-Dive like I said before.
Kick-up is the opposite... whereas on the rear, the front of the arm pointing up is Anti-squat, pointing down is Pro-Squat.
TryHard is offline  
Old 01-28-2009, 01:24 PM
  #4220  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: MI
Posts: 1,544
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by TryHard
Yup, he did... in italics below



So with 0.5mm on the FF block, and 1mm FR block, that gives 0.5mm differnce in height, with the front arm pointing down at the front. That's Anti-Dive like I said before.
Kick-up is the opposite... whereas on the rear, the front of the arm pointing up is Anti-squat, pointing down is Pro-Squat.
LOL my bad.
John St.Amant is offline  
Old 01-28-2009, 02:34 PM
  #4221  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (22)
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: downunder
Posts: 814
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Your problem Craig may be to much roll in the rear causing roll oversteer.

Try a rear rollbar the same thickness as the front bar, this will enable you to run softer springs allround.

Your setup seemed fine as it was try the rear bar you will be surprised.
bjspinner is offline  
Old 01-28-2009, 11:32 PM
  #4222  
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: La Mirada, CA
Posts: 1,125
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Hey Guys,
Is it just me, or is the 416WE build quality something we're not used to from Tamiya? The carbon chassis looks ugly, the diff joints don't look polished and the blue anodizing looks different. Is it just my kit? My TA05MS looks much cleaner and refined. Just curious.
- JV
ittjv is offline  
Old 01-29-2009, 03:41 AM
  #4223  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
CraigM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 7,009
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for the help guys, I'll let you know how I go

Ed: A full mm is a big change but that was from a pretty long setting. I'll keep in mind what you said about the shock angles and give that a whirl too, I used to run them much more upright (at the rear anyway) but have been running them nitro stylez lately
CraigM is offline  
Old 01-29-2009, 07:13 AM
  #4224  
Tech Elite
 
dameetz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: The Sky
Posts: 2,568
Default

Originally Posted by ittjv
Hey Guys,
Is it just me, or is the 416WE build quality something we're not used to from Tamiya? The carbon chassis looks ugly, the diff joints don't look polished and the blue anodizing looks different. Is it just my kit? My TA05MS looks much cleaner and refined. Just curious.
- JV
No its not just you mate, mine also like that, I too was a bit disappointed with the carbon cutting quality of this kit its just not as clean as my MS. However I m very happy for the parts fit with this one coz its not as sloppy as my MS where I have to shim the thing out almost everywhere.
dameetz is offline  
Old 01-29-2009, 08:25 AM
  #4225  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,716
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

The fitment on my kit was extremely good as well. As for the rough edges, I sand all my CF anyway so it didn't make a difference, didnt take much sanding at all to smooth them out.
Randy Caster is offline  
Old 01-29-2009, 09:42 AM
  #4226  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 9,971
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Randy Caster
The fitment on my kit was extremely good as well. As for the rough edges, I sand all my CF anyway so it didn't make a difference, didnt take much sanding at all to smooth them out.

Did you completely finish building it yet? Where's the pics? Next time just have Numan build it.....LOL
STLNLST is offline  
Old 01-29-2009, 12:33 PM
  #4227  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
 
POUNDITRACING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Newport, RI
Posts: 3,063
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

What is a fair price for a gentally used 416 roller?
POUNDITRACING is offline  
Old 01-29-2009, 01:12 PM
  #4228  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: MI
Posts: 1,544
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by POUNDITRACING
What is a fair price for a gentally used 416 roller?
Anywhere between 150 and 200 ... maybe more if its still tight.
John St.Amant is offline  
Old 01-29-2009, 01:46 PM
  #4229  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,716
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by STLNLST
Did you completely finish building it yet? Where's the pics? Next time just have Numan build it.....LOL
Pics are already a couple pages back!

Just waiting on wire to arrive so I can get the ESC wired up, and my transponder should be here any day now.
Randy Caster is offline  
Old 01-29-2009, 02:33 PM
  #4230  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 9,971
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Pics are already a couple pages back!

Just waiting on wire to arrive so I can get the ESC wired up, and my transponder should be here any day now.
Those pics weren't complete. Put some wheels on that puppy....or was I looking at the wrong one's????
STLNLST is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.