James Nguyen

I gave it to my brother to race. Building these shocks seems wierd. My other set on my car rebound normally but I didn't build those. I'll try to do them again.

JitsuGuy

It pretty much boils down to having the precise amount of shock fluid and air in the shock... I've found that if you take your time and work the SHOCK shaft (no jokes ) slowly up and down to get the air bubbles out you can get them right every time.

J

Kave

iTrader: (17)

just a quick question, i see that you guys seem to gear your cars at about 35/128 for big open tracks, but that is with 59mm tires, what should i look at gearing mine at with new 64 mm tires, its very open carpet track on a roler rink with 12ft wide lanes.

kevin

Magic

hi guys!

this is my first first post on rctech... really great forum!

i`m very interested in doing the "cut every other tooth" method.
could someone show me a picture of a cutted bealt? thanks!

greets patrick

Bobby Flack

pro3racer.. That would be 56 fronts and 55 rears. If you were to try 50 all the way around I would swap the pistons front and rear. As for the front arms, that bar is there for durability reasons. If its not there the arm will much easier to break.

Magic.. All you need is a good pair of scissors.. you want to try and cut as much of the teeth of without damaging the actual belt. On mine all it did was basically flatten every other tooth so they do not touch the pulley's.

imjonah

I have read and heard a lot of contradictory information about batteries.

I am just starting out so I do not need to squeeze out the last tiny bit of performence.

I know that 3000 / 3300 nimh batterys have significantly longer run times but do they make a car that much faster over lets sat a 1900 or 1500 nicad battery?

I have 3 1500 nicad packs. I have a peak charger with a fast and a trickle mode. If I am just practicing and trying to learn how to drive is there a problem with re-charging and re using these several times over a 2 or 3 hour period?

Since I am using these batteries strictly for practice do I really need to fully discharge them, with one of those light bulb discharge things?

If I decide to get a single 3000/3300 Nimh pack can you reccomend a source that sells for good batteries at a reasonable price.

Am I correct that NIMH should only be used and recharged once a day?

I have one of those cheap Durtrax Piranha Peak chargers which claims to work for nicad and nimh batteries
[Battery Capacity 1200-3600 mAh
Fast Charge Current 4.0 amps fixed
Fast Charge Termination -deltaV peak detection
Trickle Charge Current approx. 50mA ]
given I do not need the last ounce of performance will this charger be ok, or will it seriously effect the NIMH batteries performance.

pro3racer

oh great, all that work rebuilding the car, and i have to do it all over again! Would the orange front, red back pistons, 50 all around, sway bar up front, blue springs in back, black up front, low roll all around, red jaco rear, plaid front setup sound good, i have to weeks to hget a setup for a tighter track, with brnad new carpet.

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

Jonah, using Nicads multiple times in a day reduces their performance on each subsequent charge. NiMH packs tend to get better on the 2nd and 3rd charge of the day, just give them time to cool between runs. NiCad's need to be fully discharged after each charge before using them again for maximum performance. For practicing and learning, NiCad's are fine. NiMH packs will give more punch and voltage then NiCads, plus they have the extra benefit of being usable more then once a day. There's a bunch of threads on here on what packs to go with if you go with matched packs, but for what your doing, you may want to keep with sport packs until you start racing.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

FYI-

I had my 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee stolen today in Seattle. In the back seat was my XXX-S Graphite Plus car and assorted R/C stuff.

If anyone notice anyone selling a brand new XXX-S G+ kit, Hudy Truer in the Seattle or area or , please PM me.

The Jeep had California Plates and is char-green colored.

Thanks in advance.

pro3racer

anything special, like a chip somewhere, or a special mod, or something like that?

JitsuGuy

MDawson, that sucks man! Hope everything works out for ya.


Hi all, I'm running 35 wt oil and pink springs in the back and 40 wt oil and blue springs up front. High roll center up front and low in the back. What can I do to quicken the cars side to side movement but won't break the tail end loose? I'm also running orange pistons in the back and reds in the front and 2mm droop up front and 4mm droop in the back and no sway bars.

Thanks!
J

mainracer

switch to a low roll center front ! start with the losi mid low roll then if it is not enough go with mf low roll !

Todd Hodge

proudwinner-Thank you for the kind words. I love helping racers out...thats why I have been trying to frequent this site. I think that was a combination of Jack Johnson, Ron Rossetti and Gil Losi Jr that wrote the setup manual.

mdawson-
----what the heck that is BS.....call me tomorrow when you get a chance....by the way "Happy B-Day".


James- I screwed up on what I typed....I had it backwards. You will want to increase your shock oil 10 wt when going to a bigger hole piston.

pballkid21587-Try gearing 32/128.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Jits - Thanks!

Todd- Ill ring ya around noon your time.

JitsuGuy

Who here runs swaybars? Looks like Brian Kinwald is one of the few team drivers who runs one... At leats on asphalt. I'm gonna tinker with some settings and going to add a sway bar this wednesday at practice... Hopefully, I'm good enough now that I'll notice a difference.

Mainracer, I actually just went to the high roll up front witht he 0F pivot block and love it... I really settled the tail end down for me. So I figured I'd leave that and start trying other things. Thanks for the idea though!

In general, what does moving the top of the shock placement in a hole or out a hole on the shock tower do to the handling of the car?

Thanks!
J