Losi XXX-S
#8491
Tech Regular
Thanks Ray! The car was awesome all weekend. I can't wait to see what I can do when I have the car for more then 3 weeks!
#8492
Tech Apprentice
Bobby - Congrats! As a Losi driver I feel somewhat vindicated by your win in stock, since everyone has been telling me to get a shaft drive car - "you have to have one to win in stock racing"... Any hot tips for freeing up the drive train? Mine seems to get better everytime I work on it, but I'm always looking for a little something extra...
Denney
Denney
#8493
Tech Regular
Denney.. Thank you! I did have a new belt on my car that was a big help in getting the drivetrain freed up. Before I got that I was running a yellow belt w/ every other tooth cut off. I also removed all the seals of the bearings and the car was still very quick. I will say that there were guys that had more straightaway speed there but my car was so good it made up for it in the infield. I just need to work a little harder on the motors I guess because i'm sure thats all that was holding me back down the straight.
#8494
The Evicerator
Denny, don't listen to all the nay-sayers
I smoked everyone in Colorado at the ROAR nats in 2002 with the XXXS in stock... I don't think the belt was holding me back there
As far as tips for freeing the drive train up:
-remove at least one sheild from your bearings(Removing both sheilds will free it up more... but some people like to be able to keep their drive train relatively sealed by keeping the sealed sides of the bearings facing outwards)
-spray them out with motor spray thoroughly
-apply a light oil to them.
-Make sure your pulleys are free of debris and aren't clogged
-once your car is reassembled with the diffs in place, check to see where the belt is riding on the diff pullies... if it is pulled to one side, remove the diff and flip it around... the pulleys are a little offset and having them in one way is usually a little more free than the other.
-Belt tension is very important... The loser you run your belt, the "more free" it will be ... but if it is too loose you will lose accelleration on the track... tighten your belt up so that it doesn't slip while accellerating... if it slips while braking you shouldn't be worried. Belt tension is sort of a person preference kind of thing... so experiment with your's to see where you like it... remember, don't be afraid if you hear it slip just under breaking...
I smoked everyone in Colorado at the ROAR nats in 2002 with the XXXS in stock... I don't think the belt was holding me back there
As far as tips for freeing the drive train up:
-remove at least one sheild from your bearings(Removing both sheilds will free it up more... but some people like to be able to keep their drive train relatively sealed by keeping the sealed sides of the bearings facing outwards)
-spray them out with motor spray thoroughly
-apply a light oil to them.
-Make sure your pulleys are free of debris and aren't clogged
-once your car is reassembled with the diffs in place, check to see where the belt is riding on the diff pullies... if it is pulled to one side, remove the diff and flip it around... the pulleys are a little offset and having them in one way is usually a little more free than the other.
-Belt tension is very important... The loser you run your belt, the "more free" it will be ... but if it is too loose you will lose accelleration on the track... tighten your belt up so that it doesn't slip while accellerating... if it slips while braking you shouldn't be worried. Belt tension is sort of a person preference kind of thing... so experiment with your's to see where you like it... remember, don't be afraid if you hear it slip just under breaking...
#8495
Tech Regular
Yea.. What he said!
#8496
The Evicerator
Another note about belt tension: The tighter you have your belt the more drag brake you will have and vice versa... sometimes I tune the amount of drag brake I need by changing my belt tension... but again, it's usually personal preference and accelleration that dictate belt tension... in my opinion anyways
#8497
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Evic- Thanks for all the little tips on the drivetrain...I am getting ready for a little carpet club racing this week and going through my car and checking it all out. The diff offset thing was something I haven't heard about yet all the way out here in the Dirty South! hahhhahha...and I am planning on trying the little belt deal (with every other tooth removed) with a freshie.
BLK/SQR
BLK/SQR
#8498
The Evicerator
Hey Black Square
I've actually found that it's easier to cut every other tooth off the belt with a broken in belt rather than a fresh one... the belt will bend over backwards without kinking
I've actually found that it's easier to cut every other tooth off the belt with a broken in belt rather than a fresh one... the belt will bend over backwards without kinking
#8499
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Evic- Hahhhahha...thanks for telling me NOW! I can make another no problem. BTW- have you been using/use the Trinity ceramic bearings at all? What has been your experience with them; performance and maintenance? Oh, and how's So Cal? I am hoping to permanently move to L.A. this summer.
#8500
The Evicerator
I haven't tried any of those Trinity Ceramic bearings yet... everyone else who's tried them likes them... I'd say I'd use them at a national or some other big race...but if I'm just club racing I'd use normal type stuff...
as far as longevity goes... I've heard they're not quite as robust as far as getting through crashes/hits as normal bearings...but if you don't hit too much stuff you shouldn't have a problem...
as far as longevity goes... I've heard they're not quite as robust as far as getting through crashes/hits as normal bearings...but if you don't hit too much stuff you shouldn't have a problem...
#8501
Yo dudes, got a question... Last night I was working on my car and noticed that if I turn the wheels full lock either way while the motor is running, the wheels wobble big-time! When they're straight, it runs fine. Anyone have any ideas what it could be?
Thanks!
J
Thanks!
J
#8503
So it's normal then?
#8505
The Evicerator
Yeah, that's due to the pins in the CVD's binding up at certain angles of attack when the steering is near full lock...
The only thing you can do to get rid of it is to make sure that your CVD couplers are clean and well lubed... aside from that I wouldn't really worry about it....
The only thing you can do to get rid of it is to make sure that your CVD couplers are clean and well lubed... aside from that I wouldn't really worry about it....