Durango DEX210 Thread
Tech Rookie
iTrader: (2)
but with the velco strap you would not even have to worry about the battery strap.
Finally got to try out my dex210 this weekend! I was overall impressed with how easily I was able to find a setup that suits my driving style and track. I ended up getting 4th, which I thought was a solid start with this new buggy. The guys ahead of me definitely had way more skill than I did.
Couple of concerns:
1. On my second lap of my first heat I broke a rear hub right where the ball stud threads in. I was pretty surprised this beefy part broke. I'm hoping this was just a fluke? I decided to switch to the third hole out with hopes that more material around the ballstud will make it more durable.
2. My buddy who runs a dex210 broke his transmission case at the camber link mount twice this weekend running in stock. Is this a pretty common issue? Any known fixes? Definitely a very annoying thing to deal with considering the time it takes to fix it.
3. The buggy is mediocre at best on initial turn in. It pushes pretty hard until I hit the brake and really force it to rotate. Running on a wet clay track with green bar codes with traction compound all around and with closed cell inserts in the rear, open in front. Tires are what the fast guys are running. I'm running brown associated fronts (1.85) and dark blue durango springs in the rear. 6 hole pistons with 32.5 wt up front, 30 in the rear. The suspension feels nice and complies very nicely. I feel like I have plenty of side bite as well. I think I will switch my battery to the forward location. Will this help with my pushing problem? Any other ideas are greatly appreciated.
Couple of concerns:
1. On my second lap of my first heat I broke a rear hub right where the ball stud threads in. I was pretty surprised this beefy part broke. I'm hoping this was just a fluke? I decided to switch to the third hole out with hopes that more material around the ballstud will make it more durable.
2. My buddy who runs a dex210 broke his transmission case at the camber link mount twice this weekend running in stock. Is this a pretty common issue? Any known fixes? Definitely a very annoying thing to deal with considering the time it takes to fix it.
3. The buggy is mediocre at best on initial turn in. It pushes pretty hard until I hit the brake and really force it to rotate. Running on a wet clay track with green bar codes with traction compound all around and with closed cell inserts in the rear, open in front. Tires are what the fast guys are running. I'm running brown associated fronts (1.85) and dark blue durango springs in the rear. 6 hole pistons with 32.5 wt up front, 30 in the rear. The suspension feels nice and complies very nicely. I feel like I have plenty of side bite as well. I think I will switch my battery to the forward location. Will this help with my pushing problem? Any other ideas are greatly appreciated.
Based on your tire choice and your description of the track it sounds and looks like you have decent traction. What was the reason for going rm4? Rm4 is usually for very low grip dusty tracks. That alone may be the issue with turn in. Also almost everyone i know runs 4 hole, 3 hole, and even 2 hole pistons. You can run 6 hole but even 35 wt oil is pretty light. But thats just my opinion.
I just want to give everyone interested in the chassis an update. They are all finished and going to get Hard Coated today. The anodizor said about a week because of scheduling. Everyone who has Pm'd me I believe I have gotten back to. If not pm me again and I will try my best to respond. With the abundance of Pm's about the skids and chassis, I've been overwhelmed from your support. I want to thank everyone that has purchased items from me. With that being said I still have a few +8 and +10 chassis available from the second batch. With outdoor season approaching fast, i am not sure if I will produce any more after this. So get them while you can. Thanks again guys.......Bman
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Also reaming out the original holes is almost mandatory, the stock holes are too small and the beveled part of the thumb nuts will eventually break the battery strap. Here is a picture of what I am talkin about, aftermarket thumb nuts but rule still applies.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
Tech Rookie
dest210r
Does anyone here run the dest210r, Im looking for a better chassis for the stadium truck as I have broke two already. I would like to get an aluminum chassis but as to my knowledge no one makes one.
I make stainless steel skids for the front and rear on the Dimec chassis and Rcjunky makes an aluminum SC chassis. I included some pics of my stuff. It's all what you prefer...
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
I am working on alloy st and sc chassis. I'm still not 100% happy with them and are still a work in progress. So far all feedback from the few running them is very good, just the fit isn't quite as good as I want it to be. Stay tuned, but it still may be a bit yet.
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
I dont feel like searching through all the post so does anyone know of a good fitting 12mm rear hex conversion? Thanks Joe
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Cool thanks...also anyone converted the front end to 12mm?
If you run on a high bight track and have previously ran the slipper tight and now its slipping more than usual Look at the link below this is most likely your issue. All you need is one of the washers that you use by the idler gears, usually if your not running 4 gear you should have some left over from the build.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...perSpacerWear/
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...perSpacerWear/
I used this front hex conversation. It was very easy to do.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...0_FrontHexMod/
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...0_FrontHexMod/