Oasis

iTrader: (38)

Yeah..ball cups can be a pain, but I haven't had to many problems with mine, I do put a little silicone on the threads..it does work and it makes adjustments smooth. Try it..

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

Fix what? Not everyone has problems..

mihaelbencek

I have try with no good results.
The ball cups are a real problem

Brushless420

iTrader: (176)

Your best bet for having 0 issues with ball cups is building them properly the first time. The turnbuckle should be run in and out of the ball cup multiple times until it is relatively easy to turn. Never grip the ball cup by the ball end or deform it in any way this will create a problem for sure. Using a lubricant on the threads helps immensely. I always use TrakPower Krytech Dry Wax Lube. It can be had on Amain.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Lubricant-4oz

kornatoa

I just picked up the rtr version and a trinity d3.5 17.5 motor for our track. Its tight hard packed but dusty conditions. My question is what would be a good base set up to start with?

nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

Do you happen to have alot of bump steer, maybe when compressed the ball cup is being stressed off the ball end.


For 3 tools to adjust well that is just recommended.
If you spend a little more time with the ball cups than the build I'm listing, work the turnbuckle and thread it in and out several times will really loosen it up which when I was using them made it so I didn't to lock the ballcups in place when making adjustment. (I would still recommend switching to lunsfords though eventually?
Build Walkthrough: http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...kleBuildGuide/


The part needs to be fixed by durango you mentioned. Well looking at the turnbuckles while I was at cactus this last weekend they might have already been revamped, but I forgot to actually ask that question when I was talkin to the guys about mm configuration.

nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

How large is the track, are there a lot of big or small jumps, more flat or has obstacles all over.

Look through some setups on petitrc http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...ngoDEX210.html


But to rough it you can try something around this:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0Ab...it?usp=sharing

kornatoa

Its a small track with small to medium jumps. There's one flat landing jump but most take that one light for there's a hairpin few feet after it.

nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

you could go with what I had posted really similar. Really just need to run a setup that you know all the fluids of then you can post results and how it performed and we can really help out then on fine tuning.

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

I find it helps alot to lube the threads (I use a synthetic grease made by Lucas Oil myself, but only cause I always have it handy) and thread the turnbuckle in and out of the ballcup 3-4 times prior to assembly. If the link is going to be short enough that the shank (Non-threaded part of the turnbuckle) extends into the ballcup, its a good idea to open up the end of the ballcup using either a drill bit or a body reamer.

zipperfoot

iTrader: (16)

When i originally built my 210 i put together the turnbuckles and cups like 99% of the RC world does, but had nothing but problems. Went to AE studs and rpm cups with Lunsford turnbuckles. Problem solved but expensive.

When i built my dest210, i learned my lesson. I read the how to, and used a cordless drill. I attached the turnbuckle to the drill and ran it in and out of the cup a few times. Did that on the whole set. Happy to say i have not popped one cup off the truck, or had to use anything besides a turnbuckle wrench to make adjustments.

Just dont run the drill too fast. A few of the cups started to melt if i went too fast.

P6

iTrader: (5)

a new first for me today at practice trying to downside the landing and came up a little short (still landed it lol) i popped a shock cap no reason freshly rebuild im thinking the only possibility was i put it on to tight ,, then on the same side i snapped the arm same jump same way of landing short and the lunsgford turnbuckle popped off when the arm snapped and those are so hard to press back on their super tight fitting i noticed the droop screw had a crack down it so i took both out no problems after,,, bad thing was last pack of the day i stripped out the 1251 again with a plastic horn same gear inside the servo also so im just gonna go titanium i give up on this servo ,,but now that i have a 4pl instead of my gt3c transmitter i can put lasp down and it goes where i want it the track is so sticky it was hard to break the rear loose but i did have people asking who was driving that buggy not bragging but it was a good feeling knowing i was driving 10x better than before

mihaelbencek

i go with tlr22 ball cups. this would be the cheapest way to fix this problem

Rob Phillips

iTrader: (6)

TLR ball cups and studs are good, and of you are looking for a replacement, it's what I'd recommend.

The funny thing is that my DEX-410 has had zero issues using the TD stock ball cups, but my new-to-me DEX-210 (traded my old buggy for it), which has AE ball cups and balls previously installed, has given me a couple issues like breaking, popping off and they have more slop.

I do believe by looking at pics of some recent team drivers rides, that TD is looking into another material choice for ball ends.

TAMAK

iTrader: (29)

I like this setup, its right where I am at with my setup. Very responsive car. I am running the DIMEC20, exotek chassis weight, Tresrey front alloy bulkhead (adds some weight), Cream front Tower (more weight). And also run a shorty in the center of the chassis, and the speedo under the rear bulkhead. Keeps the bulk of the weight in the center of the car and my jumping improved greatly! I also moved my shocks to the back of the towers which gave me a more stable car on power!