Durango DEX210 Thread
#9301
thinking thats were my testing would start
as for two hole front and maybe a 3 hole rear on really smooth prepped or carpet would be nimble!
thanks for the feedback
#9302
We've had 2 holes in Cush's buggy for some time now and they have been very nice. Fairly smooth, super tacky clay track. 2 x1.6 front with 30-32.5 and 2 x 1.7 rear with 32.5-35 losi oils. Handles undulations in the track surface very well, but has enough high speed damping (pack) to allow harsh landings to be soaked up well without bottoming/bucking.
#9303
Zipper
Heavy b and i would like to know your results?
2 hole 4 hole?
give us some feed back brother?!
from what i am seeing in set ups there dose not seem to be a sure thing for shocks?
oil wt/piston holes and size very from driver to driver?
wich is good! the buggy is good with most set ups? so driver style will play into set up a lot!
thanks
Rob
Heavy b and i would like to know your results?
2 hole 4 hole?
give us some feed back brother?!
from what i am seeing in set ups there dose not seem to be a sure thing for shocks?
oil wt/piston holes and size very from driver to driver?
wich is good! the buggy is good with most set ups? so driver style will play into set up a lot!
thanks
Rob
I will be visiting an indoor track in the near future, that may require another set up. Im reading Losi and AE guys are using 2 hole 1.6 or 1.7. I may give one of those a try.
#9304
We've had 2 holes in Cush's buggy for some time now and they have been very nice. Fairly smooth, super tacky clay track. 2 x1.6 front with 30-32.5 and 2 x 1.7 rear with 32.5-35 losi oils. Handles undulations in the track surface very well, but has enough high speed damping (pack) to allow harsh landings to be soaked up well without bottoming/bucking.
#9305
Whats the best way to increase rear traction. I am running RM3 with pretty much the box setup and a shorty in the middle with no added weight. I shifted the battery from front to back but it did not help with rear traction. I am running 3 degree rear toe and 3 degree kickup with the rear carriers in the mid position. I have the gear diff with 3k oil, will the ball diff be better for a slippery clay track. The Losi 22's I was running against seemed to have heaps of traction when I was sliping all over, we had the same tires. I wonder if i need to go back to the ball diff?
If you want to do some tests to see if you can help yourself, I would try a couple of things. Assuming that your tires are not the problem; I would start by checking your rear camber. I like to run mine at around -1.5 deg. Look at the wear pattern you are getting on your tire and see if the contact patch is in the center of the tire. If it is, then you are in the ball bark, if it is off to the side, then you need to readjust.
The next thing is to change the rear toe to 3.5 deg. This will difinetly yield you more traction without too much negative affect. Expect that the buggy will feel like the rear doesn't rotate as well through the corner, but that is the trade off. After that you can try to move your hubs forward. This will absolutely give you more traction, especially forward bite, but once again it will have the same ill affect that the rear toe gives you, so it is a trade off.
You also should check your rear spring and shock setup, as if you are too stiff, this could also be your problem(as a matter of fact, I would check this before you mess with the rear toe or hubs). Does the buggy seem like the rear end is not settling or is it hopping(could be too stiff) or does it settle down immediately after an obsticle and look like it squats down and is planted(then it is probably good), these are the things you need to look at. Once you get your traction, you will probably find that the buggy is going to push, and that is the next thing that you will need to work on, and that can be compensated for without undoing these changes.
Hope that gives you some idea of how to attack your problem.
Last edited by Cspurlock; 12-21-2012 at 08:41 AM.
#9306
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
I've been doing a little reading up on the car and noticed that a common upgrade is to get the Carbon Fiber shock towers. I noticed that the Tresrey are actually lowered 1mm and 2mm front and rear respectively, while the Exotech are not.
Can you guys share your experiences with each?
I know that I was helping Fred tune his DEX210 and decided to try laying the front shocks all the way down and the rear shocks down to a 4th hole that we drilled. This was on stock towers. That combined with an increase of antisquat improved his lap times a ton.
Interesting that almost every setup I have seen lists the shock positions in the middle hole on the towers.
Anyway, looking forward to playing with this car next month after CRCRC. I was considering running it there but I won't have any time at all on it as the kit probably won't be here until next week.
Can you guys share your experiences with each?
I know that I was helping Fred tune his DEX210 and decided to try laying the front shocks all the way down and the rear shocks down to a 4th hole that we drilled. This was on stock towers. That combined with an increase of antisquat improved his lap times a ton.
Interesting that almost every setup I have seen lists the shock positions in the middle hole on the towers.
Anyway, looking forward to playing with this car next month after CRCRC. I was considering running it there but I won't have any time at all on it as the kit probably won't be here until next week.
#9307
#9308
I've been doing a little reading up on the car and noticed that a common upgrade is to get the Carbon Fiber shock towers. I noticed that the Tresrey are actually lowered 1mm and 2mm front and rear respectively, while the Exotech are not.
Can you guys share your experiences with each?
I know that I was helping Fred tune his DEX210 and decided to try laying the front shocks all the way down and the rear shocks down to a 4th hole that we drilled. This was on stock towers. That combined with an increase of antisquat improved his lap times a ton.
Interesting that almost every setup I have seen lists the shock positions in the middle hole on the towers.
Anyway, looking forward to playing with this car next month after CRCRC. I was considering running it there but I won't have any time at all on it as the kit probably won't be here until next week.
Can you guys share your experiences with each?
I know that I was helping Fred tune his DEX210 and decided to try laying the front shocks all the way down and the rear shocks down to a 4th hole that we drilled. This was on stock towers. That combined with an increase of antisquat improved his lap times a ton.
Interesting that almost every setup I have seen lists the shock positions in the middle hole on the towers.
Anyway, looking forward to playing with this car next month after CRCRC. I was considering running it there but I won't have any time at all on it as the kit probably won't be here until next week.
#9309
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
We had the Cream towers on the buggy since they came out and almost always ran 2mm under the front ballstud. When the Tresrey mounts came out we put them on and kept the setup the same otherwise. Our track is very high grip sticky clay, and wound up needing another .5mm to smooth out the steering and help with traction rolling. While we may not have needed the 1mm lower mount at our home track, it's certainly nice to be able to further tune the buggy when we travel to other tracks. And achieving the same height as stock simply means one more washer than the stock setting requires.
I interpreted it as though the ball stud was the same, but the mounting positions at the top were lowered. Kind of like you used to see on 8th scales back in the day, 2 sets of holes on the tower to mount the shock, an upper and a lower. Is this incorrect?
From their site:
"Lower the shock mounting position 1mm down to reduce the role and to improve steering response. " <--front
"Lower the shock mounting position 2mm down to reduce the role and improve rear grip." <-- Rear
Also just remembered that the ballstud is independent of the tower so that just leads me to believe that the mounting holes are what was different. Anyway thanks for any feedback. I love reading and absorbing as much as I can
#9310
Interesting. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the height that they are referring to on the shock tower the mounting position? Or are you saying that the 1mm and 2mm lowered tower is actually the ball stud is lower?
I interpreted it as though the ball stud was the same, but the mounting positions at the top were lowered. Kind of like you used to see on 8th scales back in the day, 2 sets of holes on the tower to mount the shock, an upper and a lower. Is this incorrect?
From their site:
"Lower the shock mounting position 1mm down to reduce the role and to improve steering response. " <--front
"Lower the shock mounting position 2mm down to reduce the role and improve rear grip." <-- Rear
Also just remembered that the ballstud is independent of the tower so that just leads me to believe that the mounting holes are what was different. Anyway thanks for any feedback. I love reading and absorbing as much as I can
I interpreted it as though the ball stud was the same, but the mounting positions at the top were lowered. Kind of like you used to see on 8th scales back in the day, 2 sets of holes on the tower to mount the shock, an upper and a lower. Is this incorrect?
From their site:
"Lower the shock mounting position 1mm down to reduce the role and to improve steering response. " <--front
"Lower the shock mounting position 2mm down to reduce the role and improve rear grip." <-- Rear
Also just remembered that the ballstud is independent of the tower so that just leads me to believe that the mounting holes are what was different. Anyway thanks for any feedback. I love reading and absorbing as much as I can
#9311
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
Please let me know. I would think this is a pretty significant change if it is the shock positions and people are assuming it's the ball studs or vice versa.
One other question, has anyone played with AE big bore springs? I have most of them already and really liked them better than the Losi springs on my 4.1. Judging by the setups I have seen, Orange front Yellow rear seems to be a solid starting point for Losi springs.... That translates over to Brown and Green AE springs.
#9313
Tech Adept
Overall I'm really impressed with it for the money!
#9314
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
What kind of slipper set up is everyone running? i'm now running all stock running on high grip astro turf with a 8.5. It seems like some people are running the avid set up on there 22's locally, so I'm wondering if going to the AE high torque pads could be advantageous? Has anyone tried the HT pads or what would be the best pads to run? The vented slipper plates are a little pricy, do they help at all though? A local machinist can probably do the same thing on the stock plates without an issue.
#9315
Tech Rookie