aussies1129

iTrader: (74)

hey Alex check your droop there mate that set screw could go down a fair bit more to pull your wing up then check your droop again I get mine close to parallel on the chassis then adjust from there,that should pull your dog bone into the cup a bit more, but like mine they are very loose even with oring installed??I think I will go unis in the rear. racing today but weather is crap!!!
cheers

British Menace

Hey Omarko,

Paul is right, (aussies1129) Looks as though you haven't set your droop screws yet. Once these are set, the shafts will go into the cups a little more.
But also, check your cars track, width at the rear wheels and ensure this is 200mm or slightly below. This should also ensure the shafts are fully in the cups.

If you don't have a set up guage (set) to set your droop, try placing the chassis, no wheels on, on a flat service, glass is good for this! Then take your ride hight guage or just a rule, and measure from the glass surface to the underside of the rear upright, the lowest side of the two pivot balls, lol. Do this on each side. Set this at 4mm for a smooth track and 2 - 3mm for a more bumpy track. You can do this at the front too. Try 0mm for a bumpy track and 1 or 2mm for smooth tracks, you can mess with this once you get used to the car and want to try some tuning.

If you guys already know all this, my applogies :-)

British Menace

British Menace

I meant Michael (aussies1129) sorry

Sp Racer

iTrader: (12)

Don't stress!!!......I had the same "concerns" - once you set your droop , they don't even come close to looking like falling out...trust me!

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

anyone have some tips specific to building this car?

I already know hwo to build these cars , but like gensei posts before about the shocks.

if anyone has tips like thos I would apreciated it.


like for example what shock oils and diff oils are you using?

Omarko

iTrader: (7)

phew ...

just finished mine ...

still needs a set up though ...

here are pics showing the whole process from the box to the final product - LINK CLICK HERE

PS: this is my first car I built on my own and first body I painted and cut so please no flaming ta

aussies1129

iTrader: (74)

the g4rs manual has a few mistakes I cant find the rear hub setup diagram in exploded view? also rear hub setup page has front nad back around the wrong way??anyone else come accross this?

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

looks great, only thing I would change would be the black on the body, bright colors are easier to follow on a dark surface.

Omarko

iTrader: (7)

we'll see how it feels on the track

aussies1129

iTrader: (74)

hey if your are happy with the colour of your car body then all is good get it out on the track and have fun!!
cheers

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

Damnit YLLIB your so called energy bar was 2 yummy reese's cups, and I ate them before I even started working on the car! DAMN MY OBESITY!!!


anyways great service YLLIB, first time I have bought any car in the G4 series whether it be the mongoose or g4s that I havent had a problem picking it up at the door or missing it. This time it seems like a winner.

anyways thanks for you're bussiness I will be recommending you to everyone who wants an r/c car.

and thanks for the yummy chocolates which btw came frozen since its so cold and that made them taste 100 times better.


EDIT: BTW I AM THE NEW PROUD OWNER OF A G4RS!!!!

British Menace

Congrats rcrevolution on getting your G4RS !!

YLLIB I am surprised at you.............. no milk with that chocolate for the man??

Poor guy could have died with thirst..lol

Good service sir.

British Menace

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

I have a few bones to pick with TM and the G4RS.


First off all, make a proper manual

I was looking at the diff build section and it showed philips head screws , cmon philips? what is this 1998? why the lack of allen head screws?

Second of all, do not talk about a different model in one model's Manual.

I counted at least 3 places where it mentions the g4+, I GOT THE G4RS, dont make me feel bad about not getting the G4+ in the RS's manual.

Third, not all things are labeled with proper measurements, I know this is something i will eventually change no matter what, but things like the distance between the two brake pads with the screws in isnt anywhere to be found, my g4s manual lists that distance so i will have to go by that.


For the car.

FIX THE DAMN TENSIONER, the G4S had the same issue, once you put on the rear belt tensioner you can not adjust the brakes, grrr!!!!


Finally are these suposed to be turn buckles? are these bronze looking twigs turnbuckles? cmon my 6 year old cousin can bend these things in 1/2, what happened to the g4s's strong turn buckles?


Sorry if Im coming off rude or anything, I might just be angry at other things and venting them out on this car, but after I spent $400 I would expect a slightly better constructed car, yes its nice getting hop ups over the g4s, but not at the sacrifice of quality on some parts.

aussies1129

iTrader: (74)

I can agree with you on the manual they need to get someone to proof read it first before publishing??this is my fourth TM car I have built from scratch so building was not an issue, and thats where TM got there weight reduction from thinner turnbuckles and chassis etc?as long as it performs on the track I dont care!
cheers

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

yes the more I read this manual, the more the g4rs seems like a rushes version of the g4s, the g4s manual goes into so much more detail than the rs manual.


sigh oh well, next time I will go with a Xray or mtx-4