Timox

iTrader: (5)

The camber is set so the tyres wear evenly. The toe of 3* is to try and gain some rear traction. There is a LOT of camber change on this car through its suspension travel. Makes it hard to use the camber you want with foam tyres.

Should i be looking at the front end of the car instead? And try to reduce steering/traction at that end to balance out the car?

The track is really bumpy and all cracked up. Not much traction and a lot of tyre wear with 37 rears. I wouldn't like to go any softer. They wouldn't last 10 minutes.

ogreasurada

iTrader: (1)

I think you mentioned that the car understeers at high speed, that seems the front should not have enough over steer to cause fish tail. Maybe you can try using thinner diff. lube for rear diff. such as 10k? Cuz I think 30k may be too stiff for low traction tracks. If you don't want so much suspension travel you can also try harder strings or move the rear shocks to upper holes for more progression. Just my little thoughts. Actually I think jeffreylin's post (scroll up a few posts) had stated all these already.

Joe Chaplow

just out of curiousity, wouldnt this part stiffen up the rear end. i thought stiffen up the rrr, it didnt run as well. for example if you put a 4mm chasis on this car, it didnt handle as well.

Joe Chaplow

jeff,
you try the new stratus? if so, what did you think about it with the rrr?

jeffreylin

Hey Joe, I have not tried it because the Mazda 6 works so well. Once I went to Crystal Park with my friend Alex for some practice. We both had the RRR but he had the Stratus body on. For some reason, he couldn't keep a clean lap and kept hooking at the sweeper. Then he tried it with my Mazda body and his car worked immediately. He threw away the Stratus body right there on the spot.

AndyT ©

Yep, on a low-medium traction surface, i`ve found the Stratus 3.1 to be very good.....more stability in hi-speed sweepers than the Mazda 6 and appeared to have less push on power.

AndyT ©

I think it`ll stiffen up the rear of the car to some degree, but i doubt if it`ll have the same affect on the handling of the car as fitting a 4mm chassis.
It`ll be interesting to see what/if any other parts K-Factory have in the wings for the RRR.
Cheers

Joe Chaplow

thanks, i think the mazda 6 is best for the rrr too.

MRX_joe21

Its better not the best...

Timox

iTrader: (5)

When putting oil in the diff do you fill it compleatly full to the brim or only half full?

jeffreylin

Half full, just enough so that the oil covers the bevel gear shafts.

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

hey guys
noticed something interesting this weekend..

when your running low tyres, you compress the spring by the adjuster so that you can get ride height back, when i was running 5.5mm ride height and say 58-60mm tyres i had no droop

when i switched to a longer shock end it was fine

is this normal ? i built the car with the small ball ends as it say sin the book, what have you guys done to overdone this.

thanks
JOhn

jeffreylin

This is normal. When you run really small tires you need to increase your droop. If your shocks are not long enough you need to increase the shock length by twisting the ball ends out a bit or use the longer ball end. However, even the medium ball end could be too long so I cut about 3-4 mm off.

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

i am looking to get this car for xmas. are there any parts prone to breaking more often thean others like the rear shock tower on the mtx4 does?

Timox

iTrader: (5)

Only thing i have broken or worn out are the belts and pullies. But thats mainly because of all the little rocks and stuff on the track.

Tyres....Lots of tyres

Get the 4mm thick shock towers if you like. It wont hirt. Just dont bother with a 4mm chassis. The 3mm works better.