MUGEN SEIKI MRX5
#841
Still doing 4X but touch lots of 5, no extension needed for servo to reach rx box.
My local track had 0 radio problem so far on 5, all using M11X. I do suspect that reported jam might contribute to vibration of engine as rx box now attach to 2F deck. Additional layers of double-tap should able to isolate the vibration.
My local track had 0 radio problem so far on 5, all using M11X. I do suspect that reported jam might contribute to vibration of engine as rx box now attach to 2F deck. Additional layers of double-tap should able to isolate the vibration.
#842
Tech Apprentice
Clutch Gap
Hey guys, the manual did not indicate that we have to include shims after the inner bearing, but the clutch bell gets into contact with the clutch. Do you all shim it so it doesn't touch the clutch? If so, how much shims should be added ?
#843
#844
Tech Apprentice
#845
Ofcourse because that movie not about the MRX clutch but it does exactly explain how to do (besides the different parts).
Between the flywheel nut and the 1st bearing you have to place just enough shims to get a minimum of play. There must be some play because the heat can cause expansion of the clutchbell
How much shims is needed is different, most drivers do start with a ring from a broken thrustbearing, that will fill up 1.3mm and my experience another 0.5mm is needed to get close.
Maybe an idea to play with and works fine with me:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...-possible.html
#846
Tech Regular
Clutch gap
When installing your mrx5 clutch , if you notice you cant get more than a .7 gap i advise to change your flywheel collet. While installing my clutch on my max power engine , i used the collet that came with the engine and i couldnt get more than .7 gap . I found that the kyosho collet brought the flywheel closer to the engine giving me a .9 gap which i then shimmed behind the the thrust washer with a .10 shim to give me a .8 gap . You can also buy small shims made by kyosho that will go under clutch stopper between crank and stopper which will move bell further away and get more gap .
Richard Siriano
Team Mugen Northeast
nyrclive
Richard Siriano
Team Mugen Northeast
nyrclive
#847
Tech Apprentice
DOH
Ofcourse because that movie not about the MRX clutch but it does exactly explain how to do (besides the different parts).
Between the flywheel nut and the 1st bearing you have to place just enough shims to get a minimum of play. There must be some play because the heat can cause expansion of the clutchbell
How much shims is needed is different, most drivers do start with a ring from a broken thrustbearing, that will fill up 1.3mm and my experience another 0.5mm is needed to get close.
Maybe an idea to play with and works fine with me:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...-possible.html
Ofcourse because that movie not about the MRX clutch but it does exactly explain how to do (besides the different parts).
Between the flywheel nut and the 1st bearing you have to place just enough shims to get a minimum of play. There must be some play because the heat can cause expansion of the clutchbell
How much shims is needed is different, most drivers do start with a ring from a broken thrustbearing, that will fill up 1.3mm and my experience another 0.5mm is needed to get close.
Maybe an idea to play with and works fine with me:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...-possible.html
#849
the shims you'll need to fine tuning are these check them out
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBMD8&P=Z
when you need more gap
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...5x7mm-Shim-Set
to fine tune the endplay
good luck
#850
Tech Regular
first test run
Finally got my car on the track ! yesterday ran my mrx5 mike swauger edition ,and had some glitching problems that i never had with other cars . Today i readjusted linkages as robbie from mugen advised and it went away ! I guess there was a small amount of bind when pulling throttle but now i fixed the linkage and no more glitching ! I also drilled some holes in the receiver box because i didnt know if receiver was overheating confined in the box so not sure which one worked but glitches are gone ! The 5 is a few tenths faster than the 4 for sure !
Richard Siriano
Team Mugen Northeast
nyrclive
Brooklynhobbies.com
Richard Siriano
Team Mugen Northeast
nyrclive
Brooklynhobbies.com
#851
Can someone please tell me what are the pulley teeth on the MRX5 I have downloaded the file from mugen but it does not tell me also what is the mm on the front steering rods
#852
front steering rod 85.8mm mid shaft pully's outside 29 (also comes with option28t) inside 18. sorry u right the book does not tell u i said from day one what a great instruction book!! i checked the parts list too only comes up as a pully set dont give u each one cause u cant buy them alone... if i get a chance i will count them for u let u know...
#853
front steering rod 85.8mm mid shaft pully's outside 29 (also comes with option28t) inside 18. sorry u right the book does not tell u i said from day one what a great instruction book!! i checked the parts list too only comes up as a pully set dont give u each one cause u cant buy them alone... if i get a chance i will count them for u let u know...
#854
H0251B is a 20 tooth pulley.
H0251C is an 18 tooth pulley.
Also for your information the rear pulley on the solid axle, H2202, is a 48 tooth pulley. The pulley on the front one way, H0251K, is a 24 tooth pulley.
#855