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Old 10-20-2010, 08:56 PM
  #841  
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Still doing 4X but touch lots of 5, no extension needed for servo to reach rx box.

My local track had 0 radio problem so far on 5, all using M11X. I do suspect that reported jam might contribute to vibration of engine as rx box now attach to 2F deck. Additional layers of double-tap should able to isolate the vibration.
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Old 10-21-2010, 03:49 AM
  #842  
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Default Clutch Gap

Hey guys, the manual did not indicate that we have to include shims after the inner bearing, but the clutch bell gets into contact with the clutch. Do you all shim it so it doesn't touch the clutch? If so, how much shims should be added ?
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Old 10-21-2010, 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by AdrianOngs
Hey guys, the manual did not indicate that we have to include shims after the inner bearing, but the clutch bell gets into contact with the clutch. Do you all shim it so it doesn't touch the clutch? If so, how much shims should be added ?
Check this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wjogF57xpo

Shim it all the way to your setting gap..
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Old 10-21-2010, 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ttso
Check this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wjogF57xpo

Shim it all the way to your setting gap..
At 7.25 , he placed 2 bearings onto the shaft. But MRX5 only comes with 1..
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Old 10-21-2010, 04:48 AM
  #845  
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Originally Posted by AdrianOngs
At 7.25 , he placed 2 bearings onto the shaft. But MRX5 only comes with 1..
DOH
Ofcourse because that movie not about the MRX clutch but it does exactly explain how to do (besides the different parts).

Between the flywheel nut and the 1st bearing you have to place just enough shims to get a minimum of play. There must be some play because the heat can cause expansion of the clutchbell

How much shims is needed is different, most drivers do start with a ring from a broken thrustbearing, that will fill up 1.3mm and my experience another 0.5mm is needed to get close.

Maybe an idea to play with and works fine with me:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...-possible.html
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Old 10-21-2010, 05:49 AM
  #846  
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Default Clutch gap

When installing your mrx5 clutch , if you notice you cant get more than a .7 gap i advise to change your flywheel collet. While installing my clutch on my max power engine , i used the collet that came with the engine and i couldnt get more than .7 gap . I found that the kyosho collet brought the flywheel closer to the engine giving me a .9 gap which i then shimmed behind the the thrust washer with a .10 shim to give me a .8 gap . You can also buy small shims made by kyosho that will go under clutch stopper between crank and stopper which will move bell further away and get more gap .


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Old 10-21-2010, 06:48 AM
  #847  
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Originally Posted by Roelof
DOH
Ofcourse because that movie not about the MRX clutch but it does exactly explain how to do (besides the different parts).

Between the flywheel nut and the 1st bearing you have to place just enough shims to get a minimum of play. There must be some play because the heat can cause expansion of the clutchbell

How much shims is needed is different, most drivers do start with a ring from a broken thrustbearing, that will fill up 1.3mm and my experience another 0.5mm is needed to get close.

Maybe an idea to play with and works fine with me:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...-possible.html
I needed 1.5mm of shims to not let the clutch and clutchbell get into contact. Is that too much or acceptable ? Should the shims be placed nearer to the clutchbell or nearer to the preload collar ? Sorry for so much questions. I'm only 14 years old
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Old 10-21-2010, 12:36 PM
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You have to use the 5mm long Nova collet. The Max comes with a steel version of the old "long brass" collet and in my case pushed the pinions out so far that I could not install the engine.
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Old 10-21-2010, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by AdrianOngs
I needed 1.5mm of shims to not let the clutch and clutchbell get into contact. Is that too much or acceptable ? Should the shims be placed nearer to the clutchbell or nearer to the preload collar ? Sorry for so much questions. I'm only 14 years old
the setup book of the nt1 explays very easy how to adjust centax endplay and gap,
the shims you'll need to fine tuning are these check them out

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBMD8&P=Z
when you need more gap



http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...5x7mm-Shim-Set
to fine tune the endplay

good luck
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Old 10-21-2010, 07:00 PM
  #850  
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Default first test run

Finally got my car on the track ! yesterday ran my mrx5 mike swauger edition ,and had some glitching problems that i never had with other cars . Today i readjusted linkages as robbie from mugen advised and it went away ! I guess there was a small amount of bind when pulling throttle but now i fixed the linkage and no more glitching ! I also drilled some holes in the receiver box because i didnt know if receiver was overheating confined in the box so not sure which one worked but glitches are gone ! The 5 is a few tenths faster than the 4 for sure !


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Old 10-22-2010, 07:04 AM
  #851  
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Can someone please tell me what are the pulley teeth on the MRX5 I have downloaded the file from mugen but it does not tell me also what is the mm on the front steering rods
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Old 10-22-2010, 08:08 AM
  #852  
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Originally Posted by mugenize1
Can someone please tell me what are the pulley teeth on the MRX5 I have downloaded the file from mugen but it does not tell me also what is the mm on the front steering rods
front steering rod 85.8mm mid shaft pully's outside 29 (also comes with option28t) inside 18. sorry u right the book does not tell u i said from day one what a great instruction book!! i checked the parts list too only comes up as a pully set dont give u each one cause u cant buy them alone... if i get a chance i will count them for u let u know...
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Old 10-22-2010, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ralphierace13
front steering rod 85.8mm mid shaft pully's outside 29 (also comes with option28t) inside 18. sorry u right the book does not tell u i said from day one what a great instruction book!! i checked the parts list too only comes up as a pully set dont give u each one cause u cant buy them alone... if i get a chance i will count them for u let u know...
Ok thanks alot also 85.5mm is from ball-end to ball-end what is the rod alone the manual does not tell me.
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Old 10-22-2010, 07:00 PM
  #854  
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Originally Posted by mugenize1
Can someone please tell me what are the pulley teeth on the MRX5 I have downloaded the file from mugen but it does not tell me also what is the mm on the front steering rods
In step 24 on page 10 of the manual you can see CAD drawings of the pulleys you have been asking about. Those CAD drawings are accurate.

H0251B is a 20 tooth pulley.
H0251C is an 18 tooth pulley.

Also for your information the rear pulley on the solid axle, H2202, is a 48 tooth pulley. The pulley on the front one way, H0251K, is a 24 tooth pulley.
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Old 10-22-2010, 07:21 PM
  #855  
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Originally Posted by mugenize1
Ok thanks alot also 85.5mm is from ball-end to ball-end what is the rod alone the manual does not tell me.
85.5 is ball end to ball end i did not measure the rod but if u have a mrx4 its the same so just measure it..
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