European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class
#106
It should be easy to keep it simple. No independent suspension, 3 port motors, things like that should make it like 1/12th where nothing significant ever really changes.
#107
Do not let anyone call it a “beginner” class, EVER!
If your intent for development of this new class is to lower operational costs, attract new racers and keep racers in our sport during this uncertain economic climate, don’t let anyone “brand” you class the wrong way.
The terminology of “beginner’s class” will make those racing within you new class treated like “second class” citizens at you events by “elitist” jerk-offs that will voice negative opinions against your new class.
As soon as someone starts to look down their nose at your class and tries to de-value or insinuate that your class as not as important as the status quo of RC, be ready to shut them up; no mater who they think they are, make them shut up and go away or wish they never spoke out against your class. .
Start with one “brand” of chassis only.
Your new class will take off better with a “level playing field” that will emphasize true driver ability, not deepest pockets or the “50% sponsored” guys.
A single chassis system will also help your racer’s purchasing power and available parts supply at shops & races.
If the Motonica is available at a good price, why not make it the chassis. Garren seems to be very supportive of the class and that is a great starting point.
Be prepaired for the “political outcry” from those that always look for an unfair advantage to win. These individuals care more about winning and/or personal financial gain from your hard efforts.
Once you have a strong group racing in your new class, then you can introduce other chassis to the mix; providing they are similar in design and track performance.
If you allow a chassis that offers too much of an advantage, your class will suffer by forcing more investment from your racers, so beware of that too.
Make your rules and enforce them to the letter.
Your rules are your rules, set them to be fair and try them for a race season.
If any changes are made, make sure that they are for durability factors not additional speed advantage that would cause everyone to spend more money to be competitive in your class.
Your class may also be infiltrated with guys that love to brag about having 75 years experience in their “hobby” lol.
They are usually set in their ways, part of the “status quo” and really don’t care your new direction for our sport. If you flex your rules to accommodate these “more experienced masters of nothing” your class will suffer the fate of every other R/C class that spirals out of control in cost.
In closing, setting up any new class is not that hard in comparison to the countless battles you’ll face from people that will try to bad mouth it or call it a “beginner’s class”.
A perfect example is our friend senna here on this thread and his bad attitude towards GT class nitro racing.
Best of luck with your new class, hope it grows well too!
#108
Despite the obvious attitude in that post (not complaining, just pointing it out ) that is all very good advice.
I would add (which you kinda said but not directly) RULES STABILITY. Pick the rules and stick to them. If a manufacturer makes a car or motor or whatever that doesn't fit the letter OR spirit of the rules, outlaw it.
I would add (which you kinda said but not directly) RULES STABILITY. Pick the rules and stick to them. If a manufacturer makes a car or motor or whatever that doesn't fit the letter OR spirit of the rules, outlaw it.
#109
Despite the obvious attitude in that post (not complaining, just pointing it out ) that is all very good advice.
I would add (which you kinda said but not directly) RULES STABILITY. Pick the rules and stick to them. If a manufacturer makes a car or motor or whatever that doesn't fit the letter OR spirit of the rules, outlaw it.
I would add (which you kinda said but not directly) RULES STABILITY. Pick the rules and stick to them. If a manufacturer makes a car or motor or whatever that doesn't fit the letter OR spirit of the rules, outlaw it.
#110
Dale
#111
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
Some of the pics show high end engine in the 2wd cars..seems odd to do that.
I am sure if someone could find the euro rules on line they could be translated online to get an idea of what their rules/limits are.
Cheap and basic 3port engine is a must if it is going to geared toward budget racer/newbie.
To bad we are going into the winter in northeast...tempted to call up Garen but sadly the car will sit on shelf until spring.
I am sure if someone could find the euro rules on line they could be translated online to get an idea of what their rules/limits are.
Cheap and basic 3port engine is a must if it is going to geared toward budget racer/newbie.
To bad we are going into the winter in northeast...tempted to call up Garen but sadly the car will sit on shelf until spring.
#112
Tech Champion
iTrader: (94)
If you want to attract newbies to racing a low cost spec class…, I do suggest using bodies that look like current Le Mans cars, Audi Le Mans TDI, Bentley Le Mans etc.
Scale realism should be an intricate part of the class you are trying to create. It’s 2 wheel drive like real Le Mans cars. Make sure the bodies look real too it will add to the charm of the class.
Will avoid the GT class bodies as an expample.. but in turn will add: HPI is doing pretty good with their vintage class and now they are gaining momentum with their cup racer class that has great looking 60s / 70s bodies.
1/8 on roaders all run the same Lola type body with a few variations for improved aerodynamics.. to them it will look different but to the newbie.. it all looks the same. On-road guys love them because they handle great.
The newbie that’s watching the race and on the fence to invest isn’t going to say to himself.. that purple and neon pink Lola body was so cool, it was just like watching Le Mans series.
Remember people come into this hobby for their love of cars and most of us can’t afford to collect cars nor race them.
Scale realism should be an intricate part of the class you are trying to create. It’s 2 wheel drive like real Le Mans cars. Make sure the bodies look real too it will add to the charm of the class.
Will avoid the GT class bodies as an expample.. but in turn will add: HPI is doing pretty good with their vintage class and now they are gaining momentum with their cup racer class that has great looking 60s / 70s bodies.
1/8 on roaders all run the same Lola type body with a few variations for improved aerodynamics.. to them it will look different but to the newbie.. it all looks the same. On-road guys love them because they handle great.
The newbie that’s watching the race and on the fence to invest isn’t going to say to himself.. that purple and neon pink Lola body was so cool, it was just like watching Le Mans series.
Remember people come into this hobby for their love of cars and most of us can’t afford to collect cars nor race them.
#114
#115
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
Current crop of bodies 909 and Zytec actually have a resemblance to Lemans cars...more so than previous designs
Accurate looking scale bodies tend to handle poorly but look nice..they need to be massaged a fair amount for rc application as the car are not really accurate to their scale.
Limiting chassis or manufacturer can be a problem better to have well defined specifications. They pretty much already have all this stuff figured out in Europe..just need to get a copy of their rules and regulations and go from that point. No reason to reinvent the .
Accurate looking scale bodies tend to handle poorly but look nice..they need to be massaged a fair amount for rc application as the car are not really accurate to their scale.
Limiting chassis or manufacturer can be a problem better to have well defined specifications. They pretty much already have all this stuff figured out in Europe..just need to get a copy of their rules and regulations and go from that point. No reason to reinvent the .
#116
.solid rear axle......
.3-port motors......
off road-type clutch....no centax......
.single speed..........
.bodies.....up for debate..........all=CHEAP.......
.3-port motors......
off road-type clutch....no centax......
.single speed..........
.bodies.....up for debate..........all=CHEAP.......
#117
An 3 port engine is a very difficult rule. Such an engine can be modified to almost the performance of the high end engines, de number of ports does not tell anything about the performance of an engine.
#118
I agree but I say three port because they are CHEAP. Even spending the money to have it modded is still cheaper than a stock Flash.
#120
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
This is the engine is was thinking would work
http://www.novarossi.it/eng/products...-3T&brand=nova
Also looks like it use r7 rod..so it should be a tank
http://www.novarossi.it/eng/products...-3T&brand=nova
Also looks like it use r7 rod..so it should be a tank