BIGTIME

iTrader: (116)

Cant wait to get home and start the build. My last Kyosho was a TKI2 WC. I just ordered the Agama engine mounts and aluminum upper suspension holder.

Does the TKI3 come with 1.3 x 8 pistons?

rcrules

iTrader: (15)

The kit comes with the tapered pistons.

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

Which means no, you have to buy the 1.3 x 8 separately.

Tyson72

iTrader: (12)

Wat does everyone do with their brake linkage setup?
I strangely broke the bottom link. It just snapped. I'm using the little plastic grommet, then the spring between the locking collar.
I kno some ppl use fuel tubing and I do on my other k car and have had no problems. Would fuel tubing reduce the shock through the brake linkage and be the best way to go?

Eivind E

Ok, so here's the deal, there's a few things you have to consider.

One
When you accelerate the brake linkage goes in towards the centre diff. If you have mounted the knurled thumb-adjustment thingy too far out, the brake linkage will push against the plastic of the centre diff holder assembly, and this will break your servo or linkage sooner or later.

Two
Your brake setup should not fully lock your wheels.
You should set your brakes to engage, but still allow your car to roll about 6 to 9 feet, that's my own "guesstimate" for what works best. If you set your brakes like this, your car will brake on the circuit, but you will not lose traction and spin out - or in a worst case scenario with full lock you will flip your car over the front tyres and onto its roof.


Sollution for case "ONE" is to make sure your knurled thumb adjuster is fitted as close to the servo horn as possible, while still offering some adjustment.

Sollution for case "TWO" is to adjust EPA to limit how far your servo pulls, and through knurled thumb adjuster ensure that you get slightly more brake action front and slightly less rear, and you'll be set up perfect.

Tyson72

iTrader: (12)

Thanks a lot for that advice.

aaron125

iTrader: (16)

Referring to the rest of your reply, you've mentioned some decent advice, for sure, but I have to completely disagree with your "Sollution for case "TWO"" for the following reasons...

You most definitely should be setting up the car's brake bias towards the rear brakes more so than the front. Remember, these are toy cars, not real cars, therefore your understanding of the fact that the front brakes on most any wheeled vehicle (car, motorbike, push-bike, RC car, etc.) often perform up to 70% or even more of the vehicle's total braking capacity, due mainly to the weight transfer which happens while braking.

But hear in lies the problem with your "Sollution" - if a nitro buggy is setup such that the brake bias is more or mostly to the front brakes, the car will likely handle like a barge, or at the very least it will go straight on, understeering heaps on the way into corners which require more than just a tap on the brakes, as in corners for which one has to wipe off a decent bit of speed to be able to negotiate safely. Even a 50/50 brake bias is still too much to the front for most people, the norm is about a 40/60 (front/rear) brake bias. This is done to assist the car to pivot and turn into a corner without too much understeer hampering corner entry speeds.

Give it a try and I think you'll be quite surprised at how much better your car grips and steers into a corner and how much more speed you can carry into various corners on a track. Don't overdo it though, too much rear brake bias will make the car spin out very easily while slowing down, especially when braking from high speeds and/or on very bumpy braking areas or situations where the car has some amount of steering lock applied while braking.

Wild Thing

You should try everything to see what suits you and your driving.

My son runs front brake bais about 60% pretty much regardless of track conditions. There are plenty of other ways to get your car to rotate other than brake bias. I know quite a few other top Kyosho drivers that also run the brake bias to the front

Cheers

Mark


QUOTE=aaron125;12217822]Referring to the rest of your reply, you've mentioned some decent advice, for sure, but I have to completely disagree with your "Sollution for case "TWO"" for the following reasons...

You most definitely should be setting up the car's brake bias towards the rear brakes more so than the front. Remember, these are toy cars, not real cars, therefore your understanding of the fact that the front brakes on most any wheeled vehicle (car, motorbike, push-bike, RC car, etc.) often perform up to 70% or even more of the vehicle's total braking capacity, due mainly to the weight transfer which happens while braking.

But hear in lies the problem with your "Sollution" - if a nitro buggy is setup such that the brake bias is more or mostly to the front brakes, the car will likely handle like a barge, or at the very least it will go straight on, understeering heaps on the way into corners which require more than just a tap on the brakes, as in corners for which one has to wipe off a decent bit of speed to be able to negotiate safely. Even a 50/50 brake bias is still too much to the front for most people, the norm is about a 40/60 (front/rear) brake bias. This is done to assist the car to pivot and turn into a corner without too much understeer hampering corner entry speeds.

Give it a try and I think you'll be quite surprised at how much better your car grips and steers into a corner and how much more speed you can carry into various corners on a track. Don't overdo it though, too much rear brake bias will make the car spin out very easily while slowing down, especially when braking from high speeds and/or on very bumpy braking areas or situations where the car has some amount of steering lock applied while braking.[/QUOTE]

Mark McCoy

iTrader: (11)

Has anyone tried the wheel weights ? If so what have you learned from them ?

donrod

iTrader: (2)

Not as much but the clutch bell will still hit on a hard lawn dart.

Eivind E

It totally depends on your setup and style of driving, and the track you race on. If you race somewhere that has several hairpin bends I can understand wanting rear brake bias, but for any other track you don't want that, if you are racing at any moderately serious level you will get a Stop'n'go penalization from Race Control if you hit the guy in front of you. So you want your brakes to be able to slow you down when you want to, without causing your rear end to slide around like a wheel of fortune.

For me I always try to be as smooth as possible because I used to race pan cars, and my thinking is always that more traction gives the faster line. So I never want full lock, and I do not want the rear end to slide out.

When you slide out and spin out, you are losing time. If you slide out and have to correct, you are losing 1/4 second here 1/2 second there, and all those small ones add up and you find yourself behind.

That's all I can say.

HH

iTrader: (3)

Here is Adam Drakes take on Brake Bias.

He states 60R/40F to 70R/30F are typical brake bias percentages.

If there are any "Top Pro" drivers reading this who usually setup their buggies with more front brake... please chime in and help educate those of us who want to learn why.

AZRC4Me

iTrader: (8)

I don’t consider myself a “Top Pro”, but my lap times are right there with them (pg 18):

GRRS Rd #5

Here’s my take on brake bias, and how I use my brakes. First, there’s usually only one or maybe two spots on a given track where I even need to use brake, and one spot is almost always at the end of a straight away. I rarely, if ever, use brakes in the infield. I’ve found that if you’re using your brakes a lot in the infield, you’re overdriving the corners. Obviously certain tracks might have features that dictate otherwise, but this is a good general rule of thumb.

My driving style is such that I like to carry a ton of speed into the corner and let the act of turning slow my car down. If I use brakes prior to a turn, it’s only a tap to set the front end - I want the weight to transfer forward to get more grip onto the front tires to help initiate the turn. If you set your brakes up with rear-ward bias, you lose out on some of the weight transfer forward under braking. Also, if I’m charging hard into a corner with someone else and trying to late brake them, I don’t want my rear end to come out and wack the other guy or make it harder for me to control the car. Basically, I want to initiate the turn by turning the front wheels, not by using the brakes to loosen the rear end up.

A good thing to remember - tires can only do 3 things - help the car Accelerate, Brake, or Corner (ABC). If you’re braking while cornering, part of the tire’s grip goes to braking, part of it to cornering. Same thing with accelerating out of the corner. That’s why I choose to get all my braking done prior to corner entry, so I can focus all the tire’s grip towards cornering and accelerating through and out of the corner.

What are my brakes actually set at? I constantly play with them to get them to feel right to me - they're probably close to 50/50. As soon as that brake bias gauge comes out I’ll have one, but until then it’s all feel for me. Just my $0.02, your experience may vary.

rfleck

iTrader: (58)

Spot on, same here! Not a pro but better than the average

nixu

itsokay