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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 01-13-2013, 11:40 AM
  #12931  
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Default wheel hexes

SEAN, when would you use the narrow hexes on the rear?? i run on small tracks ,200x100 and 150x100 use them on tight tracks ??? thanks
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Old 01-13-2013, 02:03 PM
  #12932  
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When using the TKI1 shock caps; what bladders are used? What is the benefit of using the TKI3 bladders anyway?

Thanks,
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Old 01-13-2013, 02:16 PM
  #12933  
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Originally Posted by CoryD
When using the TKI1 shock caps; what bladders are used? What is the benefit of using the TKI3 bladders anyway?

Thanks,
bladders are the same
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Old 01-13-2013, 02:48 PM
  #12934  
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Originally Posted by houston
bladders are the same
They're actually not that's why I was asking. The TKI1,TKI2, TKI2WC came with the IF346-03 bladders. Also, when you buy the IF470 or IF471 replacement shock set they come with these same bladders.

The TKI3 kits came with IF346-09 "HC" bladders (Kyosho refers to these as diaphragms).

The difference between these bladders is VERY noticeable. The TKI3 bladders are nearly flat and have virtually no dome to them. Whereas the other bladders are about 4x as tall.

SO my question remains; when reverting back to the older caps is one intended to use the IF346-03 bladders.

Thanks,
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Old 01-13-2013, 02:49 PM
  #12935  
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Originally Posted by houston
bladders are the same
I purchased a few months back, a set of new tki3 front shocks and a set of tki2 rears from same seller........the bladder in tki3 were flat and the tki2 was domed.....
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Old 01-13-2013, 02:53 PM
  #12936  
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Originally Posted by motorhead68
SEAN, when would you use the narrow hexes on the rear?? i run on small tracks ,200x100 and 150x100 use them on tight tracks ??? thanks
normally for low grip run narrow all round
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Old 01-13-2013, 03:42 PM
  #12937  
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I am so done with those little screws that hold the engine mount plate. I have replaced my engine mount with an Agama engine mount. Now I have 4 mm screws going through the engine mount plate with big nylon lock nuts. Never again do I have to worry about those little tiny screws. The Agama mount is a little taller, so I shimmed the center diff to make it perfect. Problem Solved.

I also have had the clutch nut that comes with the kit come loose a couple of times on my OS Speed. I replaced that with a cone shaped clutch nut. Hopefully, that fixes the issue.

These have been two concerns I have seen on this thread a couple of times.
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Old 01-13-2013, 03:52 PM
  #12938  
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Originally Posted by slow coach
normally for low grip run narrow all round

The ones that come in the TKI3 kit are the normal ones or the narrow ones?
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Old 01-13-2013, 03:57 PM
  #12939  
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Originally Posted by slow coach
normally for low grip run narrow all round
WHY ON LOW GRIP??
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:01 PM
  #12940  
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Originally Posted by Afun
I am so done with those little screws that hold the engine mount plate. I have replaced my engine mount with an Agama engine mount. Now I have 4 mm screws going through the engine mount plate with big nylon lock nuts. Never again do I have to worry about those little tiny screws. The Agama mount is a little taller, so I shimmed the center diff to make it perfect. Problem Solved.

I also have had the clutch nut that comes with the kit come loose a couple of times on my OS Speed. I replaced that with a cone shaped clutch nut. Hopefully, that fixes the issue.

These have been two concerns I have seen on this thread a couple of times.
I've been running agama motor mounts and chassis plates since the day I owned my tki2. Never wrecked a spur or clutch bell all season. Agama extended motor mount is the ticket as well for the chassis flex issue with the bell hitting the chassis I did no additional shimming to the center diff mount.
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:24 PM
  #12941  
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Originally Posted by THE PHILLY JYNX
I've been running agama motor mounts and chassis plates since the day I owned my tki2. Never wrecked a spur or clutch bell all season. Agama extended motor mount is the ticket as well for the chassis flex issue with the bell hitting the chassis I did no additional shimming to the center diff mount.
I thought I would shim because the Agama mount is just a bit taller. Would you say that the spur gear sits a little too low on the clutch bell without shimming? Or it's not a big deal and leave the shims out. My bell hitting the chassis has been minimal to no effect. I know the characteristics of this car is to have flex. Wouldn't eliminating the flex change the car? Thanks for your response.
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:39 PM
  #12942  
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Originally Posted by Afun
I thought I would shim because the Agama mount is just a bit taller. Would you say that the spur gear sits a little too low on the clutch bell without shimming? Or it's not a big deal and leave the shims out. My bell hitting the chassis has been minimal to no effect. I know the characteristics of this car is to have flex. Wouldn't eliminating the flex change the car? Thanks for your response.
I have not seen any issues.As long as you have proper gear mesh whats it matter if the motor is slightly higher in terms of proper fit? I run on rough blown out loose tracks most times and have no issues with handing. I should say I now run the BCE chassis.But ran it the same way with stock chassis. I do not use the agama extended motor mount with the os .18. But when/if i need to run a .21 i put the extended mount back in. Other wise i use the standard agama mounts and 34mm flywheels.
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:44 PM
  #12943  
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Originally Posted by THE PHILLY JYNX
I've been running agama motor mounts and chassis plates since the day I owned my tki2. Never wrecked a spur or clutch bell all season. Agama extended motor mount is the ticket as well for the chassis flex issue with the bell hitting the chassis I did no additional shimming to the center diff mount.
Thanks
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:41 PM
  #12944  
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Originally Posted by motorhead68
WHY ON LOW GRIP??
Narrow hubs allow more weight transfer; theoretically giving you more grip. So on low traction situations more grip is more better

I almost never use the narrow hubs, even in low-grip situations. Best thing would be to keep a set in your toolbox and throw them on for a few laps to see for yourself.

Later,
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:15 PM
  #12945  
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Originally Posted by CoryD
Narrow hubs allow more weight transfer; theoretically giving you more grip. So on low traction situations more grip is more better

I almost never use the narrow hubs, even in low-grip situations. Best thing would be to keep a set in your toolbox and throw them on for a few laps to see for yourself.

Later,
So the kit comes with narrow rear hub and normal front hubs, right?
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