1LikesInferno MP9 thread
10-10-2016, 02:30 PM - Wikipost
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09-20-2011, 04:11 PM
#6932
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
If it is only money then simply buy 2x TKI2.
On a completely different note, they must absolutely LOVE their Kyosho cars in Indonesia. In a recent Indo National round (last weekend maybe?) in the top 7 spots, there were 6 MP9s(!!), only missing out on either 3rd or 4th place I think.
Keep it up all you Indonesian MP9 lovers! Congrats. They should see if they can lock out the entire top 10 spots. That would be cool.
09-20-2011, 05:42 PM
#6933
I can't see how that would really help... You'd end up with 2 very different cars, obvious differences with basic chassis flex, then there's the weight difference, with steel items far out on the arms (not unsprung weight, but not helpful either), different shocks and springs, having to set 1 car with dials and the other with spacers, etc. Then you've got all the various changes with plastics, wing posts/servo tray posts, diff cases, 1 car with plastic rear hub carriers, the other with 2mm offset alloy version, different thickness anti-roll bars, etc.
If it is only money then simply buy 2x TKI2.
On a completely different note, they must absolutely LOVE their Kyosho cars in Indonesia. In a recent Indo National round (last weekend maybe?) in the top 7 spots, there were 6 MP9s(!!), only missing out on either 3rd or 4th place I think.
Keep it up all you Indonesian MP9 lovers! Congrats. They should see if they can lock out the entire top 10 spots. That would be cool.
If it is only money then simply buy 2x TKI2.
On a completely different note, they must absolutely LOVE their Kyosho cars in Indonesia. In a recent Indo National round (last weekend maybe?) in the top 7 spots, there were 6 MP9s(!!), only missing out on either 3rd or 4th place I think.
Keep it up all you Indonesian MP9 lovers! Congrats. They should see if they can lock out the entire top 10 spots. That would be cool.
And what's wrong with shock clips?
The cars geometrys are still almost identical plus the tki1 still has good outdrives
I have 4 mp9 cars and they are all a little different but yet all drive very very similar , I have been running k cars since about 2000ish and have tried a few other brands for very brief periods of time but always go back to kyosho!
Sometimes things are taken wayyyyyyyyyy too serious
09-20-2011, 08:39 PM
#6934
Ok guys so I'm loving the tki2 but what spares do I need to have in my box. I already bought new front wc arms upper and lower, rear arms, also spare ring gear. Should I go ahead and get agama outdrives or kyosho ones? Also stick with stock universals or swap to something else?
09-21-2011, 01:30 AM
#6935
Selling my full race setup guys, regretful but just dont have the time anymore.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ll-has-go.html
thanks
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ll-has-go.html
thanks
09-21-2011, 03:56 AM
#6936
Jose you're probably good with the parts you have. I haven't broken anything until that head-on snapped the outer front hub part of the arm. The arm didn't break like yours; only out @ the hub pin. I was impressed given the speed/severity of impact. That same hit broke the front shock tower and complete clip off my Losi before.
The stock universals are great, I wouldn't bother with anything else and you won't break one as long as they're shimmed right and don't bottom out.
With the car *narrow* all around, I ran the 93mm up front and 91's in the back. No issues in over a gallon now.
Also my outdrive wear hasn't been an issue, it just is showing signs in the back.
I'm also running the 1.3x8 straight/white pistons all around 45/30 (losi) for high-temp outdoor running; 42.5/27.5 the other day when you saw it, which worked super. I may go 40/25 even since it's cooling off.
5/5/2 on the diffs; prob run 3 in the rear for the way you drive
The stock universals are great, I wouldn't bother with anything else and you won't break one as long as they're shimmed right and don't bottom out.
With the car *narrow* all around, I ran the 93mm up front and 91's in the back. No issues in over a gallon now.
Also my outdrive wear hasn't been an issue, it just is showing signs in the back.
I'm also running the 1.3x8 straight/white pistons all around
45/30 (losi) for high-temp outdoor running; 42.5/27.5 the other day when you saw it, which worked super. I may go 40/25 even since it's cooling off. 5/5/2 on the diffs; prob run 3 in the rear for the way you drive
09-21-2011, 04:11 PM
#6939
this has no effect on the handling of the car though aside from the old chassis being a little stiffer which i think handles grooved up tracks better and is easier on spurs/clutch bells due to less flex .
either way you look at it the kyosho mp9 and most all K cars in general are true "racers" cars and are phenomenal handling cars , not saying there arent other great cars out there but kyosho ranks very very high on the list
09-21-2011, 04:24 PM
#6940
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Just had a look at the bottom of my TKI chassis and I can't say anything about the quality of the anodic layer but I can say that it looks like almost new coz once the anodizing is scraped off, the underlying metal is almost identical colour, so it just appears to be still there, but in reality there are just as many scratches and just as much metal showing as on my brown WC chassis.
Also, remember that if you want the stiffer chassis like the TKI, with more of an angle on the edge that's bent, it's available. IF448/IF449 and IF473/IF474. Dunno which is which though.
Also, remember that if you want the stiffer chassis like the TKI, with more of an angle on the edge that's bent, it's available. IF448/IF449 and IF473/IF474. Dunno which is which though.
09-21-2011, 07:01 PM
#6941
Just had a look at the bottom of my TKI chassis and I can't say anything about the quality of the anodic layer but I can say that it looks like almost new coz once the anodizing is scraped off, the underlying metal is almost identical colour, so it just appears to be still there, but in reality there are just as many scratches and just as much metal showing as on my brown WC chassis.
Also, remember that if you want the stiffer chassis like the TKI, with more of an angle on the edge that's bent, it's available. IF448/IF449 and IF473/IF474. Dunno which is which though.
Also, remember that if you want the stiffer chassis like the TKI, with more of an angle on the edge that's bent, it's available. IF448/IF449 and IF473/IF474. Dunno which is which though.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Main-Chassis
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Chassis-Plate
09-21-2011, 07:07 PM
#6942
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
The rolled edge where the black side guards attach has been bent to a more shallow angle on the TKI2 chassis, therefore allowing the TKI2 chassis to flex more than the original TKI version.
This can actually be seen if you open the PDF manual for both cars, get the exploded view open to the exact same size and position on the screen and then Alt-Tab to switch between the 2 PDFs. If you do it fast enough and your PC doesn't hesitate, it's visible and the difference in the bends can be seen.
This can actually be seen if you open the PDF manual for both cars, get the exploded view open to the exact same size and position on the screen and then Alt-Tab to switch between the 2 PDFs. If you do it fast enough and your PC doesn't hesitate, it's visible and the difference in the bends can be seen.
09-21-2011, 07:17 PM
#6943
The rolled edge where the black side guards attach has been bent to a more shallow angle on the TKI2 chassis, therefore allowing the TKI2 chassis to flex more than the original TKI version.
This can actually be seen if you open the PDF manual for both cars, get the exploded view open to the exact same size and position on the screen and then Alt-Tab to switch between the 2 PDFs. If you do it fast enough and your PC doesn't hesitate, it's visible and the difference in the bends can be seen.
This can actually be seen if you open the PDF manual for both cars, get the exploded view open to the exact same size and position on the screen and then Alt-Tab to switch between the 2 PDFs. If you do it fast enough and your PC doesn't hesitate, it's visible and the difference in the bends can be seen.
09-22-2011, 10:09 AM
#6944
I know most of you know this, but the brown anodized chassis is made out of the same material as the hard ano version. Once the coating wears off, the wear is still very good because of the 7075 aluminum. If you order a replacement chassis, you will get the hard anodized version.
09-22-2011, 10:29 AM
#6945
Any update on the outdrives/universals? Is everyone using Agama OD's or modded OFNA OD's in the meantime?
Got me a set of MP777 swings on the way to throw in the rear, and I'll probably put the 93's up front.
I know this has been talked about to death, and I am not trying to stir the pot....just genuinely interested is all.
BTW, this is one of the slickest buggies I've had the pleasure of building
Got me a set of MP777 swings on the way to throw in the rear, and I'll probably put the 93's up front. I know this has been talked about to death, and I am not trying to stir the pot....just genuinely interested is all.
BTW, this is one of the slickest buggies I've had the pleasure of building
My guess is the MP9 will be around through 2012 Worlds with maybe some adjustments for the venue like the last one..