NEW XRAY T2
#2836
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
nice one. I'm on medium to low grip also. I started with kit rubbers setup with medium chassis but have now moved to this setup:
fr:
shocks 3rd hole in on top
30wt, kit spring, 3holes open
5mm, 2.5mm droop (measured by manually raising car and measuring difference off the ride height)
low roll-centre with arms angled upward (0.00fr of arm, -0.75rr of arm) pro-dive? hrmmmm.
1deg neg camber, 0.5deg toe out
rr:
shocks 4th hole in from top
30wt, kit spring, 3holes open
5mm, 4mm droop measured as above (as per setup book describes)
1deg neg camber, 3deg toe in
full soft chassis setup but middle bulkhead brace left in.
one-way multi-diff, med to med-high rr diff, pretty loose main belt
car is still a bit skatey in the back end. (back slides out easily). I'm going to order the front light blue (1.6lb) and rear yellow (1.4lb) springs to see how that changes things. Otherwise all other settings are as per the kit.
This is on CS-32's on a mixed, med grip track. (has a fast straightway, mid-speed mid section and very tight in section. almost all corners/turns are 180deg hairpins, much like you'd see on a poly-pipe carpet track.
I need a setup that I can change quickly for a simular speed carpet track on rubbers. At the moment I run the same setup, but go a stiffer chassis.
this setup changes directions very very fast, even with the kit-setup long wheelbase. impressive but almost overkill!
Is it possible that my 2.5 front droop is causing the back to spin out easily? more droop up front required?
James
fr:
shocks 3rd hole in on top
30wt, kit spring, 3holes open
5mm, 2.5mm droop (measured by manually raising car and measuring difference off the ride height)
low roll-centre with arms angled upward (0.00fr of arm, -0.75rr of arm) pro-dive? hrmmmm.
1deg neg camber, 0.5deg toe out
rr:
shocks 4th hole in from top
30wt, kit spring, 3holes open
5mm, 4mm droop measured as above (as per setup book describes)
1deg neg camber, 3deg toe in
full soft chassis setup but middle bulkhead brace left in.
one-way multi-diff, med to med-high rr diff, pretty loose main belt
car is still a bit skatey in the back end. (back slides out easily). I'm going to order the front light blue (1.6lb) and rear yellow (1.4lb) springs to see how that changes things. Otherwise all other settings are as per the kit.
This is on CS-32's on a mixed, med grip track. (has a fast straightway, mid-speed mid section and very tight in section. almost all corners/turns are 180deg hairpins, much like you'd see on a poly-pipe carpet track.
I need a setup that I can change quickly for a simular speed carpet track on rubbers. At the moment I run the same setup, but go a stiffer chassis.
this setup changes directions very very fast, even with the kit-setup long wheelbase. impressive but almost overkill!
Is it possible that my 2.5 front droop is causing the back to spin out easily? more droop up front required?
James
Originally Posted by Ill Factor
This is the starting set up for my T2 on med grip asphalt.
I ran pretty much stock except:
I moved the inner ackerman to the rear tab. ( This was not real clear to me I assume the pink dots in the setup book are the positions of the bearing location. Can some one please clarify this for me as I am trying to achieve more ackerman).
Gearing was 116x30=6.57
Putnum Propulsion 19t Chameleon Duce
Rear
Height 5mm
Drop 5mm
Toe 2 Degrees neg
Camber 1 degree neg
Stock Springs
X-Ray 30wt
Front
Height 5mm
Droop 5mm
Toe 1 degree positive
Camber 0-1 degree neg
Stock Springs
X-Ray 3wt
Chassis
I run close to the medium setting, except on top I use the Aluminum standoffs and 4 less screws see picture (Red spots depict areas where NO screws are used). Bottom chassis setup is factory recommended.
This worked really well for me. It resulted in me sweeping my heats earning TQ and finishing 1st. I would like to get feed back if guys try it. Doesn't seem like very many of you run on asphalt but for those who do lets get some stuff rolling.
I ran pretty much stock except:
I moved the inner ackerman to the rear tab. ( This was not real clear to me I assume the pink dots in the setup book are the positions of the bearing location. Can some one please clarify this for me as I am trying to achieve more ackerman).
Gearing was 116x30=6.57
Putnum Propulsion 19t Chameleon Duce
Rear
Height 5mm
Drop 5mm
Toe 2 Degrees neg
Camber 1 degree neg
Stock Springs
X-Ray 30wt
Front
Height 5mm
Droop 5mm
Toe 1 degree positive
Camber 0-1 degree neg
Stock Springs
X-Ray 3wt
Chassis
I run close to the medium setting, except on top I use the Aluminum standoffs and 4 less screws see picture (Red spots depict areas where NO screws are used). Bottom chassis setup is factory recommended.
This worked really well for me. It resulted in me sweeping my heats earning TQ and finishing 1st. I would like to get feed back if guys try it. Doesn't seem like very many of you run on asphalt but for those who do lets get some stuff rolling.
#2837
Tech Master
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Under that rock you just kicked over!!!!
Posts: 1,040
dunno about u guys but think my xray t2 is awesome....
built as per kit for all but shocks( used fixed 3 hole and drilled holes to 1.2) car was awesome..
only changes through out the day where....blue springs to front, kit silver to rear, and oil from 30 to 40 wt.
was good enuff to take TQ and an overall second at CArpet wars in UK....in 27T.
No rear toe in issue, yeah its slighty out but nothing to worry about.. to all those who complain about such things....stop bench racing and get out on the track you numpties.
built as per kit for all but shocks( used fixed 3 hole and drilled holes to 1.2) car was awesome..
only changes through out the day where....blue springs to front, kit silver to rear, and oil from 30 to 40 wt.
was good enuff to take TQ and an overall second at CArpet wars in UK....in 27T.
No rear toe in issue, yeah its slighty out but nothing to worry about.. to all those who complain about such things....stop bench racing and get out on the track you numpties.
#2839
#2840
Tech Elite
iTrader: (101)
Dom,
Yeah, it turns out the second 8x1 motor that I ran was nothing like the first 8x1 motor that I ran. I probably was overgeared by 2 teeth. Live and learn and if not then MELTDOWN.
Steve
Yeah, it turns out the second 8x1 motor that I ran was nothing like the first 8x1 motor that I ran. I probably was overgeared by 2 teeth. Live and learn and if not then MELTDOWN.
Steve
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
Thanks Steve! That's what I'm doing now, mounting the fan over the endbell with 2 screws.
I think our problem at the 2-day prompted me to use the fan. You figured out the problem yet?
Dom
I think our problem at the 2-day prompted me to use the fan. You figured out the problem yet?
Dom
#2841
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by James
nice one. I'm on medium to low grip also. I started with kit rubbers setup with medium chassis but have now moved to this setup:
fr:
shocks 3rd hole in on top
30wt, kit spring, 3holes open
5mm, 2.5mm droop (measured by manually raising car and measuring difference off the ride height)
low roll-centre with arms angled upward (0.00fr of arm, -0.75rr of arm) pro-dive? hrmmmm.
1deg neg camber, 0.5deg toe out
rr:
shocks 4th hole in from top
30wt, kit spring, 3holes open
5mm, 4mm droop measured as above (as per setup book describes)
1deg neg camber, 3deg toe in
full soft chassis setup but middle bulkhead brace left in.
one-way multi-diff, med to med-high rr diff, pretty loose main belt
car is still a bit skatey in the back end. (back slides out easily). I'm going to order the front light blue (1.6lb) and rear yellow (1.4lb) springs to see how that changes things. Otherwise all other settings are as per the kit.
This is on CS-32's on a mixed, med grip track. (has a fast straightway, mid-speed mid section and very tight in section. almost all corners/turns are 180deg hairpins, much like you'd see on a poly-pipe carpet track.
I need a setup that I can change quickly for a simular speed carpet track on rubbers. At the moment I run the same setup, but go a stiffer chassis.
this setup changes directions very very fast, even with the kit-setup long wheelbase. impressive but almost overkill!
Is it possible that my 2.5 front droop is causing the back to spin out easily? more droop up front required?
James
fr:
shocks 3rd hole in on top
30wt, kit spring, 3holes open
5mm, 2.5mm droop (measured by manually raising car and measuring difference off the ride height)
low roll-centre with arms angled upward (0.00fr of arm, -0.75rr of arm) pro-dive? hrmmmm.
1deg neg camber, 0.5deg toe out
rr:
shocks 4th hole in from top
30wt, kit spring, 3holes open
5mm, 4mm droop measured as above (as per setup book describes)
1deg neg camber, 3deg toe in
full soft chassis setup but middle bulkhead brace left in.
one-way multi-diff, med to med-high rr diff, pretty loose main belt
car is still a bit skatey in the back end. (back slides out easily). I'm going to order the front light blue (1.6lb) and rear yellow (1.4lb) springs to see how that changes things. Otherwise all other settings are as per the kit.
This is on CS-32's on a mixed, med grip track. (has a fast straightway, mid-speed mid section and very tight in section. almost all corners/turns are 180deg hairpins, much like you'd see on a poly-pipe carpet track.
I need a setup that I can change quickly for a simular speed carpet track on rubbers. At the moment I run the same setup, but go a stiffer chassis.
this setup changes directions very very fast, even with the kit-setup long wheelbase. impressive but almost overkill!
Is it possible that my 2.5 front droop is causing the back to spin out easily? more droop up front required?
James
#2842
Sup guys...This is my last post for the week (Snowbirds), but I wanted to let you know T2 bumpers will be instock at the Snowbirds and they will starting shipping from the site on Wed Good luck to anyone racing the Birds!
#2843
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
Originally Posted by cvt01
308316 T2 T2 shock ball joint http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...66&kategoria=0
308301 T2 XRAY Shock Absorber-Set 4-Step (2) http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...65&kategoria=0
308300 XRAY Shock Absorber-Set 4-Step (2) http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...95&kategoria=0
The ball joints on the 308300 (T1) and 308301 (T2) are the same. The 308316 is shorter than those and you are right they are sold separately. I believe that the shorter ones fits perfectly to the old shocks. But if you change one of the front ones the other must be changed also.
Where is your hobby shop which has T2 parts?
308301 T2 XRAY Shock Absorber-Set 4-Step (2) http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...65&kategoria=0
308300 XRAY Shock Absorber-Set 4-Step (2) http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...95&kategoria=0
The ball joints on the 308300 (T1) and 308301 (T2) are the same. The 308316 is shorter than those and you are right they are sold separately. I believe that the shorter ones fits perfectly to the old shocks. But if you change one of the front ones the other must be changed also.
Where is your hobby shop which has T2 parts?
Mikes Hobby Shop in Dallas
www.mikeshobbyshop.com
I am headed to the track today for practice and will try the shorter T2 shock ends.
#2844
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
Originally Posted by dawgmeat
this is not my car but I think it may be 3racing I'm not sure?
the fans work great and keep the temperature of the motor nice a cool...worth looking into
#2845
Originally Posted by dawgmeat
this is not my car but I think it may be 3racing I'm not sure?
The pics of the CCF in situ on this T2 car I believe belong to Carl Giordano
Cheers Malc THE CAN MAN
#2847
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
Originally Posted by dawgmeat
Who has parts in the US, please post link
check out
http://www.coolcanfan.com/
#2849
Originally Posted by dawgmeat
Who has parts in the US, please post link
There is NO outlet in the USA, as the discount that I have offered does not seem favourable to the shops, maybe its the exchange rate I have had 3 shops shown a very keen interest i the last week alone, but to no avail. Its very frustrating for me as I would love for it to be easier for you guy's in the US to purchase our products. Still one day a man will land on Mars eh
Cheers Malc THE CAN MAN