New Novak Brusless System
#1651
I always wondered why there was no cooling vents on brushless... I assume there is a reason. Wontdirt mess up how it works? like on a brushed motor there are two surface contacting so dirt will be thrown off even if it gets on the brushess.
Now im no expert on how brushless works but if there is a layer of crap between the two surfaces that create the magnetic field etc wont it effect performance? I could be talking a load of bull but there must be a reason for not having vents.
Now im no expert on how brushless works but if there is a layer of crap between the two surfaces that create the magnetic field etc wont it effect performance? I could be talking a load of bull but there must be a reason for not having vents.
#1654
Ok guys just had to post again.
I geared up 7 teeth on the pinion from 23 to 30 and down 6 teeth on the spur from a 96 to a 90 this is on an Xray T1fk and now I can say...This thing rips!!! Lots of low end torque and great speed!!!! can't wait for the next race!!!!
I geared up 7 teeth on the pinion from 23 to 30 and down 6 teeth on the spur from a 96 to a 90 this is on an Xray T1fk and now I can say...This thing rips!!! Lots of low end torque and great speed!!!! can't wait for the next race!!!!
#1655
Originally Posted by Deves
Ok guys just had to post again.
I geared up 7 teeth on the pinion from 23 to 30 and down 6 teeth on the spur from a 96 to a 90 this is on an Xray T1fk and now I can say...This thing rips!!! Lots of low end torque and great speed!!!! can't wait for the next race!!!!
I geared up 7 teeth on the pinion from 23 to 30 and down 6 teeth on the spur from a 96 to a 90 this is on an Xray T1fk and now I can say...This thing rips!!! Lots of low end torque and great speed!!!! can't wait for the next race!!!!
#1656
There are already some capacitors underneath the plastic cap that covers the back endbell. I have seen someone knock one of those capacitors off and replace it with a standard motor cap, but I'm not sure why any additional capacitors would be needed . Maybe this racer just accidentally knocked his original caps off when he took the motor apart to cut the vent holes?
#1657
Moose, How you doing?
I don't calculate the rollout. I see your still running at So cal.... When you gonna come out and play in the parking lot?
I don't calculate the rollout. I see your still running at So cal.... When you gonna come out and play in the parking lot?
#1658
Tech Adept
Hi All,
I am new to brushless, and am going to purchase a brushless system soon.
can you perhaps tell me what the different systems to compare to certain wind brushed motors?
Like a 3.5 compares to what brushed?
4.5 compares to what brushed?
5.5 compares to what brushed?
6.5 compares to what brushed?
Also what rollout would one use on the relevant brushless motors ?
Thanks
I am new to brushless, and am going to purchase a brushless system soon.
can you perhaps tell me what the different systems to compare to certain wind brushed motors?
Like a 3.5 compares to what brushed?
4.5 compares to what brushed?
5.5 compares to what brushed?
6.5 compares to what brushed?
Also what rollout would one use on the relevant brushless motors ?
Thanks
#1659
I am running the 3.5 indoor on carpet on a medium size track on 11.5.
Turned up full its about the same as a 6 turn. with LIPO its even faster
Turned up full its about the same as a 6 turn. with LIPO its even faster
#1660
Hi qestion to novak...
I hard-wire the battery wire to my battery.
if we turn off the ESC by the switch, unsolder off battery wire, there will be still some residual charge left in the capacitor.
if the wires were to touch, with some charge left in the cap, it would short, would it do damage to the ESC?
i sure this has been tested?
I always make it a habbit of turing the switch on then off after i have removed the battery wires, is this necessary?
thanks
I hard-wire the battery wire to my battery.
if we turn off the ESC by the switch, unsolder off battery wire, there will be still some residual charge left in the capacitor.
if the wires were to touch, with some charge left in the cap, it would short, would it do damage to the ESC?
i sure this has been tested?
I always make it a habbit of turing the switch on then off after i have removed the battery wires, is this necessary?
thanks
Last edited by BlueR1; 11-23-2006 at 01:41 PM.
#1661
Originally Posted by MoonTrap
Like a 3.5 compares to what brushed?
4.5 compares to what brushed?
5.5 compares to what brushed?
6.5 compares to what brushed?
4.5 compares to what brushed?
5.5 compares to what brushed?
6.5 compares to what brushed?
double it minus 1....
so 3.5 = 6 to 7 turn
4.5r = 8 to 9
.
6.5 turn = 12 to 13 turn
.
.
13.5 turn = 26 to 27 turn
gearing is shown in the manual. u can download off novaks website.
#1662
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by Deves
Moose, How you doing?
I don't calculate the rollout. I see your still running at So cal.... When you gonna come out and play in the parking lot?
I don't calculate the rollout. I see your still running at So cal.... When you gonna come out and play in the parking lot?
Anyhow, I think I really need to gear up SKY HIGH to get close to those brush motor.
#1663
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by BlueR1
Hi qestion to novak...
I hard-wire the battery wire to my battery.
if we turn off the ESC by the switch, unsolder off battery wire, there will be still some residual charge left in the capacitor.
if the wires were to touch, with some charge left in the cap, it would short, would it do damage to the ESC?
i sure this has been tested?
I always make it a habbit of turing the switch on then off after i have removed the battery wires, is this necessary?
thanks
I hard-wire the battery wire to my battery.
if we turn off the ESC by the switch, unsolder off battery wire, there will be still some residual charge left in the capacitor.
if the wires were to touch, with some charge left in the cap, it would short, would it do damage to the ESC?
i sure this has been tested?
I always make it a habbit of turing the switch on then off after i have removed the battery wires, is this necessary?
thanks
#1664
Originally Posted by BlueR1
rough rule....
double it minus 1....
so 3.5 = 6 to 7 turn
4.5r = 8 to 9
.
6.5 turn = 12 to 13 turn
.
.
13.5 turn = 26 to 27 turn
gearing is shown in the manual. u can download off novaks website.
double it minus 1....
so 3.5 = 6 to 7 turn
4.5r = 8 to 9
.
6.5 turn = 12 to 13 turn
.
.
13.5 turn = 26 to 27 turn
gearing is shown in the manual. u can download off novaks website.
#1665
Originally Posted by Solara
I was told by Charlie @ Novak and several experrence drive that use GTB....the spark is absolutely normal ( I too were new about that when that happened to me)....that spark tells me the GTB capacity it take charge and working normal, however, if I don't see the spark while soldering the batteries, that is the time to replace the cap.....that was what I was told.
i meant when u do this..
after the run. turn the swith to off position
un-solder the wires.
now there is still charge in the capacitor.
Now if the -ve and +ve ESC wires were now to touch, it would SHORT the residual charge thats in the capacitor.
was wondering if this millisecond short would cause problems? maybe thats why a few of them have problems?