Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
#4246
Tech Champion
iTrader: (108)
I would look for the usual suspects...try a different motor...check for loose wires etc.
Like I said, I have had zero problems with the lightweight chassis and parts. But that is me. I have been running it for close to 5 months with no problems at all.
If you need a good carpet setup let me know. Last setup I had on the car was awesome.
Like I said, I have had zero problems with the lightweight chassis and parts. But that is me. I have been running it for close to 5 months with no problems at all.
If you need a good carpet setup let me know. Last setup I had on the car was awesome.
#4247
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by big al
I got a chance to run mine today and had major glitching issues. The only thing that changed was that I installed the LW chassis and ran the 540silver can class. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I should look for problems. I've used the same equipment on FK04 (except the 540 silver can) and never had a problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!--Al
#4248
Does anyone have a good setup for a box stock ta05?
#4249
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
This is my set up for regular grip asphalt.
Chamber - 1.5degree all round
Toe in - Front 0degree,Rear 2degree.(2.5 or 3degree would be better)
(Using A arm mount for FF,FR,RF and E arm mount for RR with
0degree rear hub)
Shock oil - Front 450,Rear 350
Shock - Front Blue,Rear Yellow
Anti R/Bar- Front Yellow,Rear Red
Droop - Front 5mm,Rear 4mm
Tyre - Sorex 40 with C medium insert (depentd on weather temperature
in your country)
1)Arm mount spacer- Shim it as stock set up.
2)Add 1mm shim in between rear hub(415 reversible hub) and ball end to add
more roll center.
3)Front Diff was set slightly tighter than rear.
Managed to get 3rd place with this set up in the recent race,car is predictable and easy to handle..less sensitive.Im running all round diff but i set my GTB 4.5 system lesser drag brake so the car can roll faster during cornering.Hope it works on u,good luck.
Chamber - 1.5degree all round
Toe in - Front 0degree,Rear 2degree.(2.5 or 3degree would be better)
(Using A arm mount for FF,FR,RF and E arm mount for RR with
0degree rear hub)
Shock oil - Front 450,Rear 350
Shock - Front Blue,Rear Yellow
Anti R/Bar- Front Yellow,Rear Red
Droop - Front 5mm,Rear 4mm
Tyre - Sorex 40 with C medium insert (depentd on weather temperature
in your country)
1)Arm mount spacer- Shim it as stock set up.
2)Add 1mm shim in between rear hub(415 reversible hub) and ball end to add
more roll center.
3)Front Diff was set slightly tighter than rear.
Managed to get 3rd place with this set up in the recent race,car is predictable and easy to handle..less sensitive.Im running all round diff but i set my GTB 4.5 system lesser drag brake so the car can roll faster during cornering.Hope it works on u,good luck.
#4250
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by Dan the Man
Does anyone know if the tamiya carbon chassis is conductive? I remember having to use tape on my Losi XXXS chassis so my ladder packs didn't short out, and was worried about the same happening with the Tamiya one.
Can someone check this out again just to make sure???
#4252
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
Civc91:
Hi,
I ordered all the compostie parts from Spedtech last night. I'm keeping the stock suspension. I'll be running Parma foams, Ko electronics and Parma Alfa.
I have been reading past posts about the EVO/415 inner hinge pin mounts and was wondering what ones I'll need or should I just buy sets of them????
on the conductivity of the composite chassis. my XXXS G+ never shorted out my packs (all side by side) neither did my TC3 with the lowered battery placement (batteries moved inboard and lowered. battery bars were under the shaft).
I always run the solder tabs to the outside of the chassis. this prevents any shorting.
Hope this helps
Thanks
Hi,
I ordered all the compostie parts from Spedtech last night. I'm keeping the stock suspension. I'll be running Parma foams, Ko electronics and Parma Alfa.
I have been reading past posts about the EVO/415 inner hinge pin mounts and was wondering what ones I'll need or should I just buy sets of them????
on the conductivity of the composite chassis. my XXXS G+ never shorted out my packs (all side by side) neither did my TC3 with the lowered battery placement (batteries moved inboard and lowered. battery bars were under the shaft).
I always run the solder tabs to the outside of the chassis. this prevents any shorting.
Hope this helps
Thanks
#4253
Tech Champion
iTrader: (108)
Here is my last setup:
Front: AE Copper springs
60 wt. oil
3 Hole pistons CARBON FIBER SHOCK TOWER
Stock inner camber link position and height (#1)
Upper shock position #2
Lower shock position outer hole (#2)
Front knuckles run upside down (C2)
-2 deg camber
1.5 mm Droop (measured over ride height)
0.5 deg toe out
Stock inner hinge/suspension mounts
Parma Magenta tires (yes Magenta-with the outer sidewall glued)56mm
Rear: AE Red springs
40wt oil
3 hole piston CARBON FIBER SHOCK TOWER
#2 inner camber link
#3 Upper shock mount
Outer lower shock mount (#2)
1 Degree rear hubs
-2 deg camber
2-2.5mm Droop (measured over ride height)
stock inner hinge/suspension mouts
Parma Magenta tires - 56mm
Dual diff-front diff tight-rear a little looser than the front
If too much steering use Parma Cyans up front...but if you can drive with the Magentas it will be faster
Let me know if I missed anyhting...Oh , I only use the Protoform G6.
Front: AE Copper springs
60 wt. oil
3 Hole pistons CARBON FIBER SHOCK TOWER
Stock inner camber link position and height (#1)
Upper shock position #2
Lower shock position outer hole (#2)
Front knuckles run upside down (C2)
-2 deg camber
1.5 mm Droop (measured over ride height)
0.5 deg toe out
Stock inner hinge/suspension mounts
Parma Magenta tires (yes Magenta-with the outer sidewall glued)56mm
Rear: AE Red springs
40wt oil
3 hole piston CARBON FIBER SHOCK TOWER
#2 inner camber link
#3 Upper shock mount
Outer lower shock mount (#2)
1 Degree rear hubs
-2 deg camber
2-2.5mm Droop (measured over ride height)
stock inner hinge/suspension mouts
Parma Magenta tires - 56mm
Dual diff-front diff tight-rear a little looser than the front
If too much steering use Parma Cyans up front...but if you can drive with the Magentas it will be faster
Let me know if I missed anyhting...Oh , I only use the Protoform G6.
#4254
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Too Loose?
So, today I was running my TA-05 for the first time at CEFX Raceway. Cyrul's got the track setup as a quasi-Worlds' trainer, which means straightaway, haripin, straightaway, hairpin, straightaway, hairpin. Anyways, I was having a hell of a time trying to keep the rear end under control. I was running Parma Magentas/Cyans with a fairly stock setup, with the addition of a blue sway up front and red in the rear, and white spring in the front and blue springs in the rear. I switched to a yellow sway up front and that helped. I then moved the rear end all the way back. That helped a little more. I may try moving to a blue and yellow spring setup next week. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Anyone have similar problems? Thanks for the input!
#4256
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
Civic91:
Thanks for posting your setup. I'll put it on as soon as I get the parts from Speedtech. what rear hubs are you running?? are they off a 415?? EVO IV??
How do like the G6?? after running the Losi Alfa and lexus we swicthed to the Parma Alfa. and haven't changed since.
Thanks
Thanks for posting your setup. I'll put it on as soon as I get the parts from Speedtech. what rear hubs are you running?? are they off a 415?? EVO IV??
How do like the G6?? after running the Losi Alfa and lexus we swicthed to the Parma Alfa. and haven't changed since.
Thanks
#4257
Tech Champion
iTrader: (108)
I used these... http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=245&id=1710
I have used just about every body you can think of. The G6 just seems smoother, but still aggressive.
I have used just about every body you can think of. The G6 just seems smoother, but still aggressive.
#4258
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by CIVIC91
If it is really a big concern, just take some clear nail polish and trace around the battery slots and any other area your concerned with. It may be slightly conductive, but it must not be too bad. I haven't had 1 glitch in 5 months.
#4259
Tech Elite
iTrader: (26)
About the TA05- Good for Mod?
A couple of guys have bought this kit and they claim it works really good. They own xrays and Mi2's, etc, and say this car is really good. I need a belt car, that is realiable and can handle Novak brushless 4.5, 5.5 power....can this car perform with this kind of power? I run on asphalt in sunny south florida, open mod, brushless...can the car handle the load or is this a kid's kit? I just never seen it untill some guys have told me its working great for them...thanks...