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Old 02-09-2010, 03:10 AM   #18481
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Originally Posted by warnos View Post
In you guys opinion what is the best drive shaft to use in the front of the car out of;

* the ones in the WCE version #61088 - MIP CVDS CYCLONE..

* or the #61403 UNIVERSAL DRIVE SHAFT SET (VER.2/BLACK/2PCS)

I have both but was wondering which is best to use in the front.

I am not using a very powerful motor so I am after a smooth drive train rather then durability..

Cheers

The cvd's are better in front as until you reach point of chatter they will be smoother and give more corner speed!! and they don't chatter until atleast 85 to 90 % so pretty good. the version 2 will chatter at prob 70 to 75 % lock
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Old 02-09-2010, 07:02 AM   #18482
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Originally Posted by rjmracer View Post
Hi guys new to the site... i race in the uk on carpet....

Just thought id better come on here for some advice really i race on verious sizes of track so i decided to get the brushless motor mount which will allow me a bigger spur on the car (running 64 pitch) currently have a 104 on but now that doesnt even protrude through the bottom of the chassis at all so there is quite a bit of room can anyone shed any light on what spur i can get on it bigger the better im guessing perhaps a 112 but no one has one i can try on and i cant ask a model slop to open one up lol... please help so i can get down to my lhs!

Russ
Hi Russ,

With the standard motor mount, 108t is the biggest you can fit. However if you change to the brushless motor mount you can put in a 112t for sure.
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Old 02-09-2010, 01:47 PM   #18483
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Enjoy the video

http://www.hpiracing.com/news/2009111001/
http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/news/en/2009121402.html

Congratulation again Barry on your winning!
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Old 02-09-2010, 02:47 PM   #18484
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Nioce!!! Thanks Hiro
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Old 02-09-2010, 05:20 PM   #18485
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Nioce!!! Thanks Hiro

NP Fred.
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Old 02-10-2010, 12:29 AM   #18486
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nice hiro
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Old 02-10-2010, 01:10 AM   #18487
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Quick question, Could someone please give me a part no. for HPI Purple Springs?

Cheers
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Old 02-10-2010, 01:19 AM   #18488
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tamiya legacy b4, sorex 36r pre-mounts, track temps around 110 degrees. Car is easy to drive smooth and never loose. Med grip track. I like to dive into the corners but the car atm tends to push. Is there a setup change for me to create a little more over steer?

Front
pink springs
40wt AE oil
4 position on front tower
outside hole on front pro4 arm
1.4 front sway bar
1.5 front block
droop 2mm on blocks
1.0mm under all front suspension blocks.
4mm ackerm
3mm spacer under front camber tie rod
2 of camber
5.5mm ride height

Rear
silver springs
40wt AE oil
#2 pistons
4 on the shock tower
middle hole on old pro 4 arm
1.2 rear sway bar
3.0 rear block
droop 3-3.5mm
1.5 mm shims under all suspension blocks.
rear hub spacers 0.75 in front 2.0 in rear
2mm spacer under rear camber tie rod
arms all the way back (spacers in front of arms)
2 degrees of camber
6mm ride height
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Old 02-10-2010, 02:42 AM   #18489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by decibels View Post
The cvd's are better in front as until you reach point of chatter they will be smoother and give more corner speed!! and they don't chatter until atleast 85 to 90 % so pretty good. the version 2 will chatter at prob 70 to 75 % lock
Thanks I have a pair of the standard HB MIP CVDs but also have a spare single which I puchased with some spare parts.. it has a titanium end (the threaded side that goes into the wheel which is usually black) anyone know what this is off?? or who makes it?? It looks just like the HB MIP CVD but has a titanium end..

Also I have heard that there is a Losi MIP CVDs which fit the cyclone.. is this correct?

Cheers
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:50 AM   #18490
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That would help if you could give us a bit more track info. but here are my suggestions to try...

Quote:
Originally Posted by goots View Post

Front
pink springs
40wt AE oil
4 position on front tower Try #3 on the tower
outside hole on front pro4 arm
1.4 front sway bar
1.5 front block Try 2.5 deg block it should give you more initial turn in better
droop 2mm on blocks
1.0mm under all front suspension blocks. Go up to 1.5mm to get quicker responce
4mm ackerm
3mm spacer under front camber tie rod Try start with 2.0mm
2 of camber
5.5mm ride height If the track is not bumpy, try 4.5-5.0mm

Rear
silver springs
40wt AE oil
#2 pistons 1.1mm 3 holes would work better if you want the car aggresive
4 on the shock tower
middle hole on old pro 4 arm
1.2 rear sway bar
3.0 rear block
droop 3-3.5mm
1.5 mm shims under all suspension blocks.
rear hub spacers 0.75 in front 2.0 in rear change it to 2.0/front, 0.75/rear
2mm spacer under rear camber tie rod Try 1.5mm or stay with 2.0mm and then go #3 hole on tower.
arms all the way back (spacers in front of arms) Should be 2.0mm in front of arm, 0.75 behind of arm.
2 degrees of camber
6mm ride height
Let me know after you try it.
Thanks,
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:06 AM   #18491
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+1 on all the changes Hiro mentioned.

-Korey
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:22 AM   #18492
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
+1 on all the changes Hiro mentioned.

-Korey
So Korey or Hiro

Based on what was said with the setup suggestions. It seems as though there is a relationship that works best with a certain amt of camber gain vs. shock position.
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:37 AM   #18493
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Questions??

Could anybody tell me is any good if running with short camberlink?
In fact somebody from 4000Kv gave me the setup then i didn't run yet with it in my 3000KV class, due my car is still totally disassemble.

Best regards
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:03 AM   #18494
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Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
So Korey or Hiro

Based on what was said with the setup suggestions. It seems as though there is a relationship that works best with a certain amt of camber gain vs. shock position.
Yes, there is a relation that works the best with a certain suspension leverage. When we think about camber angle, there are two different things that are "static camber" and "dynamic camber (camber change)".

I suggest you to try as many combo as possible and feel the difference. You should feel like laying down the shocks like less camber change while the standing shock likes more camber gain.

Also, it also depends where the static (as 1G) piston position is.

Hope it helps.
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:31 AM   #18495
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
That would help if you could give us a bit more track info. but here are my suggestions to try...



Let me know after you try it.
Thanks,
Ill give it a try this weekend since its a by week. The track is a little bumpy with banked sweepers on each end. Thats why I keep the front ride height to either 5.5 - 6mm cuz it just scrapes and drag in those sections. Heres a link to the track and a youtube link to our 17.5 A main.

boxcarracing.org/RC_Car_Racing/rc_car_racing.html#RCraceinfo
youtube.com/user/ocsdriver
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