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Old 10-26-2009, 07:38 PM
  #17731  
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Hi Dave, it could be caused by quite a few possible reasons.

Is your track asphalt or carpet? What were the track conditions when the problem occured? High grip, low grip, dusty?

Have you tried brand new tires?



Originally Posted by OZDC
I have been having a few issues with my WCE Cyclone suddenly spinning out on tight left hand corners recently and cant seem to figure out what is doing it.

I've played with setup (droop, ride height, diff settings,tyres, shock oil and springs) and can't seem to solve it. The car will be fine for a few laps then all of a sudden will spin out on a particular corner. After a while of taking that corner slower i can go hard again.

I'm not sure if it is tyres as it happens with 28,32 and 36's.

Before it started happening I changed to the alloy diff and changed the front drive shafts from the older type to the newer 61088.

I also noticed that the rear front toe block seems to have some scratches on the left side it where the steering linkage may have been hitting it.

Now I need to find some time to test all these things out, but has anyone had similar issues and could have any of the above be causing it.

thanks

Dave
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Old 10-26-2009, 07:52 PM
  #17732  
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Thanks Bill,

Its a med-high grip asphalt track with a few bumps.
New tyres don't fix it.

I realise it could be a million things but as this is something that has just started happening with the same setup and track it makes me wonder if it has something to do with the new diff or drive shafts, or maybe the steering linkage is hitting the toe block.


I'll be testing these out but I was wondering if anyone had similar issues.

thanks again

Dave
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Old 10-27-2009, 12:19 AM
  #17733  
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Hi Dave, if the problem was caused by mechanical problems such as the diff or drive shafts, you should be able to diagnose them at the bench. After you are sure all mechanical components are working properly, then only you focus on the setup. This way, at least you can narrow down the source of the problem.

From my experience, if the car spun out unexpectedly, the problem is most likely caused by one of the followings:

1) The rear end roll too much, relative to the front end. This usually occur when the traction is high.

2) The rear end roll too little, relative to the front end. This usually occur when the traction is low.

3) The tires wore unevenly. This could be caused by not swapping the tires correctly.

So, try new set of tires to eliminate #3, then pay attention to see if the problem was caused by #1 or #2.

Also try running more camber at the rear end, or increase camber change at the rear end relative to he front.

Remember, traction is generated by the interactions between the track surface and the tire surface, so always pay attention to how the set of tire is interacting with the track surface at that specific moment.

Post your setup here and I am sure a lot of guys could help give you some suggestions.

Hope the above helps



Originally Posted by OZDC
Thanks Bill,

Its a med-high grip asphalt track with a few bumps.
New tyres don't fix it.

I realise it could be a million things but as this is something that has just started happening with the same setup and track it makes me wonder if it has something to do with the new diff or drive shafts, or maybe the steering linkage is hitting the toe block.


I'll be testing these out but I was wondering if anyone had similar issues.

thanks again

Dave
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Old 10-27-2009, 06:38 AM
  #17734  
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Dave,

I had a similar problem on a local carpet track a few weeks ago. The car was pushing badly at some corners yet was spinning out at the rest. Turned out that chassis tweak was what was causing the problem. A local racer straightened it out for me and no further problems.

I realize there could be many things that may be causing the problem but it's worth checking if you haven't already.
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:22 AM
  #17735  
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Hi Dave,

Like the previous post said, chassis tweaked will cause a spin out problem. And if I'm you, I will also check every single part make sure they all in good condition, make sure there has no binding on the drive train, check every bearings, sway bar, and all the ball cup just for make sure besides the set up change. Hope this help.
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:57 AM
  #17736  
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I just finished building my new Cyclone TC. I haven't had a chance to race it yet, but I got to take it out to an open parking lot. Man, it is awesome. It's so much better than what I had been formally racing (HPI Pro 2)! I set it up with one of Korey's low traction parking lot setups, and it was glued to the unpreped asphalt. Can't wait to race it! I'll post some pics when I can.
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Old 10-27-2009, 06:49 PM
  #17737  
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Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I actually put a new chassis on it before last race meet and rebuilt it from the ground up. Every time I get a knock i check the top deck and tweak.

I had another look at the POM outdrives on the front spool last night. One was a bit 'grabby' so i replaced it.

Hopefully I can get to the track in the next week or so to test.

Dave
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Old 10-28-2009, 10:19 AM
  #17738  
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edit
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Old 10-28-2009, 10:20 AM
  #17739  
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Anyone able to fit the Team Epic 5000 40c battery or the IP5000 40c (same batt)? I looked at an SMC 5000 and grinding the bulkhead wouldnt work...id practically grind all the way through it. Would i have to buy the lipo bulkhead thing and how would that affect performance?
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Old 10-28-2009, 10:30 AM
  #17740  
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Originally Posted by Syber Serulean
Anyone able to fit the Team Epic 5000 40c battery or the IP5000 40c (same batt)? I looked at an SMC 5000 and grinding the bulkhead wouldnt work...id practically grind all the way through it. Would i have to buy the lipo bulkhead thing and how would that affect performance?
I'd grind mine down to about 2.5 mm on the bulkhead and good enough to fit the IP5000 40c in with about .5 - 1mm clearance.

Yes, they are the same batt.
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Old 10-28-2009, 10:33 AM
  #17741  
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Originally Posted by Syber Serulean
Anyone able to fit the Team Epic 5000 40c battery or the IP5000 40c (same batt)? I looked at an SMC 5000 and grinding the bulkhead wouldnt work...id practically grind all the way through it. Would i have to buy the lipo bulkhead thing and how would that affect performance?
i think the upper deck will let the chassis flex a little more not having the arch of metal there and u can find the lipo decks for a good deal
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Old 10-28-2009, 11:05 AM
  #17742  
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Originally Posted by louis flood
i think the upper deck will let the chassis flex a little more not having the arch of metal there and u can find the lipo decks for a good deal

guess ill try grinding it. Best deal i could find though was $44 and this still alot for that thing :/

i also want to get the DCJs but those arent cheap either :/ :/ :/
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Old 10-28-2009, 11:19 AM
  #17743  
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ive got the lipo dek and the dcjs on there way
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Old 10-28-2009, 11:21 AM
  #17744  
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boooo lol.
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Old 10-28-2009, 12:11 PM
  #17745  
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Originally Posted by Syber Serulean
Anyone able to fit the Team Epic 5000 40c battery or the IP5000 40c (same batt)? I looked at an SMC 5000 and grinding the bulkhead wouldnt work...id practically grind all the way through it. Would i have to buy the lipo bulkhead thing and how would that affect performance?
I just fitted a Team Epic 5000 in a new Cyclone TC. I had to grind the upper bulkhead, but it was extremely easy. I really didn't have to grind that much off either. I don't think it's worth it to buy the lipo upper deck to fit this particular battery.
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