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Old 02-11-2010, 03:22 PM
  #18496  
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Originally Posted by michael.branth
Given the choice I would go with sorex, I find the sweeps a little bit unpredictabl on the edge. Sorex32 seem to work in just about every situation.
Thankyou sir!
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Old 02-11-2010, 06:16 PM
  #18497  
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Originally Posted by michael.branth
I am not one for the new car talk.......but what would you like on the new or next generation cyclone, for me:

Lipo Chassis ( exotek style...maybe)

Motor mount some thing like mi4 to keep tweak equal side to side and extra adjustment for weight balence, even better if this could be a 'mod' for curennt chassis

More tunabilty for suspension blocks, may be new hole in chassis but also hole so that currennt blocks would fit.

That would be it for me
Hopefully a better battery holder than the Exotek, as it's impossible to get my Turnigys sat right.

So i'm now in a position where i have to.
a/ Buy new batteries even though the Turnigys work fantastic
b/ Go back to the stock chassis and batttery tape
c/ Cut up my brand new Exotek chassis

To make matters worse every position is max'd out to get the battery in, so i now have absolutely no room to adjust the weight balance.

So if HB do bring out a LiPo chassis fingers crossed they do their home work and take into account the size of batteries that are likely to come out in the next year or 2, rather than be max'd out on every adjustment straight from the off.



Cheers
Mark
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Old 02-12-2010, 05:48 AM
  #18498  
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here is my setup i used the other night for carpet

Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Schumacher 45wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 1 on arm
Camber: 2.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5 degree toe block/standard FR
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm, with 2mm gap on TC swaybar link
Wheelbase: 2.7 in front of arm
Wheel Hex: std

Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Schumacher 45wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 4 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Std
Shims under camber link: 2mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: None
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard with 2mm shims each side

Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck (not cut)
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: Sorex 24R's
Body: HB Mazda 6

Also used the old cyclone/pro 4 plastic suspensions arms

Medium-High grip carpet , no additive , tyre warmers

I had so much grip at both ends it was great but when i finished the final i noticed the front tyres was alot more worn and hot than the rear , maybe i could have used a touch more grip mid corner and corner exit at the rear

any ideas ?
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Old 02-12-2010, 06:52 AM
  #18499  
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Originally Posted by madwestmo
here is my setup i used the other night for carpet

Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Schumacher 45wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 1 on arm
Camber: 2.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5 degree toe block/standard FR
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm, with 2mm gap on TC swaybar link
Wheelbase: 2.7 in front of arm
Wheel Hex: std

Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Schumacher 45wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 4 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Std
Shims under camber link: 2mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: None
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard with 2mm shims each side

Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck (not cut)
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: Sorex 24R's
Body: HB Mazda 6

Also used the old cyclone/pro 4 plastic suspensions arms

Medium-High grip carpet , no additive , tyre warmers

I had so much grip at both ends it was great but when i finished the final i noticed the front tyres was alot more worn and hot than the rear , maybe i could have used a touch more grip mid corner and corner exit at the rear

any ideas ?
I ve got a little to much grip where you have to little!!! Main differneces looking at you set-up- 1.2 rear sway bar, Cut Rear Deck, hole 3 on shock tower, 7mm on droop gauge on front: may be try some them to get the grip up?
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Old 02-12-2010, 10:17 AM
  #18500  
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yeh but the rear seems ok set at this , the front is the problem
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Old 02-12-2010, 12:15 PM
  #18501  
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You have to remember, there is only a set amount of traction available to your car, so usually changing one end affects the other. If you stiffen the rear (sway bar) it will reduce traction at that end, therefore increasing it at the other, and so on and so forth.
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Old 02-12-2010, 02:12 PM
  #18502  
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Default Degrees steering

Hello Korey I ask you a question:
How many degrees of steering used on asphalt and carpet.
Thanks
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Old 02-12-2010, 02:35 PM
  #18503  
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exotek chassis has arrived

Last edited by Luppi Stefano; 02-12-2010 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 02-12-2010, 04:13 PM
  #18504  
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Originally Posted by AGNO
Hello Korey I ask you a question:
How many degrees of steering used on asphalt and carpet.
Thanks
On my Ko radio, I set the steering travel to 100%, then set the endpoints till the wheels lock. Then I back off the steering travel adjustment to 90%. So it's about 90% of full travel.

-Korey
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Old 02-13-2010, 04:59 AM
  #18505  
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Default terrible handlind

SO I decided to stiip the car down to it's kit form. On the final stage after setting the droop I discovered that in the front I can only get 4mm ride height. Could this be the bulkheds or the shock tower. this is the TC
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Old 02-13-2010, 09:37 AM
  #18506  
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Either you have too much Droop (I run max. 6mm on Blocks when using Sorex Tires) or your Dampers might be too short.
Make sure, that the Downstop screw doesn't limit the rideheight.

You could also check your suspension blocks and shafts if they are flat/straight.

But normaly, if I couldn't make rideheight, it were the Downstop screws.
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Old 02-13-2010, 09:50 AM
  #18507  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
On my Ko radio, I set the steering travel to 100%, then set the endpoints till the wheels lock. Then I back off the steering travel adjustment to 90%. So it's about 90% of full travel.

-Korey
Thanks Korey, I thought that for the carpet to use less steering angle.
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Old 02-13-2010, 11:21 PM
  #18508  
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Last edited by billythekid; 02-15-2010 at 05:52 AM.
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Old 02-14-2010, 11:24 PM
  #18509  
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Here's a pretty cool video from saturdays practice
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

Laptimes around 8.4 on these laps, 6.5 turn
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Old 02-15-2010, 03:53 AM
  #18510  
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I just drilled the holes needed for the FR blocks on a mill at work..
Is there any idea to also drill holes for the RF blocks? I dont have my TC at work so i cant check if there's enough clearance for the belt..
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