Hot Bodies Cyclone
Super Moderator
iTrader: (1)
I am not one for the new car talk.......but what would you like on the new or next generation cyclone, for me:
Lipo Chassis ( exotek style...maybe)
Motor mount some thing like mi4 to keep tweak equal side to side and extra adjustment for weight balence, even better if this could be a 'mod' for curennt chassis
More tunabilty for suspension blocks, may be new hole in chassis but also hole so that currennt blocks would fit.
That would be it for me
Lipo Chassis ( exotek style...maybe)
Motor mount some thing like mi4 to keep tweak equal side to side and extra adjustment for weight balence, even better if this could be a 'mod' for curennt chassis
More tunabilty for suspension blocks, may be new hole in chassis but also hole so that currennt blocks would fit.
That would be it for me
So i'm now in a position where i have to.
a/ Buy new batteries even though the Turnigys work fantastic
b/ Go back to the stock chassis and batttery tape
c/ Cut up my brand new Exotek chassis
To make matters worse every position is max'd out to get the battery in, so i now have absolutely no room to adjust the weight balance.
So if HB do bring out a LiPo chassis fingers crossed they do their home work and take into account the size of batteries that are likely to come out in the next year or 2, rather than be max'd out on every adjustment straight from the off.
Cheers
Mark
Tech Apprentice
here is my setup i used the other night for carpet
Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Schumacher 45wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 1 on arm
Camber: 2.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5 degree toe block/standard FR
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm, with 2mm gap on TC swaybar link
Wheelbase: 2.7 in front of arm
Wheel Hex: std
Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Schumacher 45wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 4 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Std
Shims under camber link: 2mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: None
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard with 2mm shims each side
Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck (not cut)
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: Sorex 24R's
Body: HB Mazda 6
Also used the old cyclone/pro 4 plastic suspensions arms
Medium-High grip carpet , no additive , tyre warmers
I had so much grip at both ends it was great but when i finished the final i noticed the front tyres was alot more worn and hot than the rear , maybe i could have used a touch more grip mid corner and corner exit at the rear
any ideas ?
Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Schumacher 45wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 1 on arm
Camber: 2.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5 degree toe block/standard FR
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm, with 2mm gap on TC swaybar link
Wheelbase: 2.7 in front of arm
Wheel Hex: std
Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Schumacher 45wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 4 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Std
Shims under camber link: 2mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: None
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard with 2mm shims each side
Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck (not cut)
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: Sorex 24R's
Body: HB Mazda 6
Also used the old cyclone/pro 4 plastic suspensions arms
Medium-High grip carpet , no additive , tyre warmers
I had so much grip at both ends it was great but when i finished the final i noticed the front tyres was alot more worn and hot than the rear , maybe i could have used a touch more grip mid corner and corner exit at the rear
any ideas ?
Tech Adept
here is my setup i used the other night for carpet
Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Schumacher 45wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 1 on arm
Camber: 2.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5 degree toe block/standard FR
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm, with 2mm gap on TC swaybar link
Wheelbase: 2.7 in front of arm
Wheel Hex: std
Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Schumacher 45wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 4 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Std
Shims under camber link: 2mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: None
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard with 2mm shims each side
Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck (not cut)
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: Sorex 24R's
Body: HB Mazda 6
Also used the old cyclone/pro 4 plastic suspensions arms
Medium-High grip carpet , no additive , tyre warmers
I had so much grip at both ends it was great but when i finished the final i noticed the front tyres was alot more worn and hot than the rear , maybe i could have used a touch more grip mid corner and corner exit at the rear
any ideas ?
Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Schumacher 45wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 1 on arm
Camber: 2.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5 degree toe block/standard FR
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm, with 2mm gap on TC swaybar link
Wheelbase: 2.7 in front of arm
Wheel Hex: std
Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Schumacher 45wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 4 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Std
Shims under camber link: 2mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: None
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard with 2mm shims each side
Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck (not cut)
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: Sorex 24R's
Body: HB Mazda 6
Also used the old cyclone/pro 4 plastic suspensions arms
Medium-High grip carpet , no additive , tyre warmers
I had so much grip at both ends it was great but when i finished the final i noticed the front tyres was alot more worn and hot than the rear , maybe i could have used a touch more grip mid corner and corner exit at the rear
any ideas ?
Tech Apprentice
yeh but the rear seems ok set at this , the front is the problem
Tech Master
You have to remember, there is only a set amount of traction available to your car, so usually changing one end affects the other. If you stiffen the rear (sway bar) it will reduce traction at that end, therefore increasing it at the other, and so on and so forth.
Degrees steering
Hello Korey I ask you a question:
How many degrees of steering used on asphalt and carpet.
Thanks
How many degrees of steering used on asphalt and carpet.
Thanks
exotek chassis has arrived
Last edited by Luppi Stefano; 02-12-2010 at 03:44 PM.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
-Korey
terrible handlind
SO I decided to stiip the car down to it's kit form. On the final stage after setting the droop I discovered that in the front I can only get 4mm ride height. Could this be the bulkheds or the shock tower. this is the TC
Tech Rookie
Either you have too much Droop (I run max. 6mm on Blocks when using Sorex Tires) or your Dampers might be too short.
Make sure, that the Downstop screw doesn't limit the rideheight.
You could also check your suspension blocks and shafts if they are flat/straight.
But normaly, if I couldn't make rideheight, it were the Downstop screws.
Make sure, that the Downstop screw doesn't limit the rideheight.
You could also check your suspension blocks and shafts if they are flat/straight.
But normaly, if I couldn't make rideheight, it were the Downstop screws.
Last edited by billythekid; 02-15-2010 at 05:52 AM.
Here's a pretty cool video from saturdays practice
Laptimes around 8.4 on these laps, 6.5 turn
+ YouTube Video | |
Laptimes around 8.4 on these laps, 6.5 turn
I just drilled the holes needed for the FR blocks on a mill at work..
Is there any idea to also drill holes for the RF blocks? I dont have my TC at work so i cant check if there's enough clearance for the belt..
Is there any idea to also drill holes for the RF blocks? I dont have my TC at work so i cant check if there's enough clearance for the belt..