Hot Bodies Cyclone
Tech Apprentice
hi ,
Ive been racing for around a year now and have slowly built up my equipment , i have 2 x cyclone tc's , during the winter here in england i only race indoor on carpet , but i am having lots of problems getting my car setup right.... Ive tried the standard setup in the manual and also a few off the HB website but none with any luck...
The tracks i race on are kinda small compared to the ones ive seen in america and so on , the carpet we race on is proper race carpet but cant remember the name of it (its light grey :P)
Here is what i run :
13.5t SP 3.0 motor
5000 40c Intellect lipo
Futaba 9551 servo
SP LPF v2 ESC
Normally everyone seems to use Sorex 24r tyres and tyre warmers but no additive
Its getting quite fustrating as i am relativily new to rc racing so i dont know if its me or the car lol , the car has never really seemed to do exactly what i want it too and doesnt feel stable enough to push it to the edge
Can anyone give me some help on what i can do , maybe a starting off point for the car so i know its not the car and just my bad driving lol , everyone at my club runs xray, schumachers etc so cant ask anyone locally
Thanks for any help in advance
Ive been racing for around a year now and have slowly built up my equipment , i have 2 x cyclone tc's , during the winter here in england i only race indoor on carpet , but i am having lots of problems getting my car setup right.... Ive tried the standard setup in the manual and also a few off the HB website but none with any luck...
The tracks i race on are kinda small compared to the ones ive seen in america and so on , the carpet we race on is proper race carpet but cant remember the name of it (its light grey :P)
Here is what i run :
13.5t SP 3.0 motor
5000 40c Intellect lipo
Futaba 9551 servo
SP LPF v2 ESC
Normally everyone seems to use Sorex 24r tyres and tyre warmers but no additive
Its getting quite fustrating as i am relativily new to rc racing so i dont know if its me or the car lol , the car has never really seemed to do exactly what i want it too and doesnt feel stable enough to push it to the edge
Can anyone give me some help on what i can do , maybe a starting off point for the car so i know its not the car and just my bad driving lol , everyone at my club runs xray, schumachers etc so cant ask anyone locally
Thanks for any help in advance
Tech Adept
hi ,
Ive been racing for around a year now and have slowly built up my equipment , i have 2 x cyclone tc's , during the winter here in england i only race indoor on carpet , but i am having lots of problems getting my car setup right.... Ive tried the standard setup in the manual and also a few off the HB website but none with any luck...
The tracks i race on are kinda small compared to the ones ive seen in america and so on , the carpet we race on is proper race carpet but cant remember the name of it (its light grey :P)
Here is what i run :
13.5t SP 3.0 motor
5000 40c Intellect lipo
Futaba 9551 servo
SP LPF v2 ESC
Normally everyone seems to use Sorex 24r tyres and tyre warmers but no additive
Its getting quite fustrating as i am relativily new to rc racing so i dont know if its me or the car lol , the car has never really seemed to do exactly what i want it too and doesnt feel stable enough to push it to the edge
Can anyone give me some help on what i can do , maybe a starting off point for the car so i know its not the car and just my bad driving lol , everyone at my club runs xray, schumachers etc so cant ask anyone locally
Thanks for any help in advance
Ive been racing for around a year now and have slowly built up my equipment , i have 2 x cyclone tc's , during the winter here in england i only race indoor on carpet , but i am having lots of problems getting my car setup right.... Ive tried the standard setup in the manual and also a few off the HB website but none with any luck...
The tracks i race on are kinda small compared to the ones ive seen in america and so on , the carpet we race on is proper race carpet but cant remember the name of it (its light grey :P)
Here is what i run :
13.5t SP 3.0 motor
5000 40c Intellect lipo
Futaba 9551 servo
SP LPF v2 ESC
Normally everyone seems to use Sorex 24r tyres and tyre warmers but no additive
Its getting quite fustrating as i am relativily new to rc racing so i dont know if its me or the car lol , the car has never really seemed to do exactly what i want it too and doesnt feel stable enough to push it to the edge
Can anyone give me some help on what i can do , maybe a starting off point for the car so i know its not the car and just my bad driving lol , everyone at my club runs xray, schumachers etc so cant ask anyone locally
Thanks for any help in advance
I found that the solution ( whilst I practice and chnage my driving style- the ultimate soultion) was to use a set-up for high traction carpet- Korey posted one a few pages back and the barry baker 13.5 KO GP set-up is also for high traction. All I am doing now is slowly dialing more steering back in to suit my style: softer ft spring, rear shocks stood up one hole etc. something that I know does work is reducing the ankerman spacer, try 2mm get used to drving then start to build up, both set-ups mentioned above suggest 4mm but I prefer 3mm.
If that doe'nt help I hope it was interesting!!!!!!
CAN some one put links to set-up's? I am not allowed to post URL's yet
Tech Adept
This ones mine.
Hi, just messing with features and seeing if I could up-load:
CYclone tc
Exotek chassis
SP 13.5
SP esc
Hi-tec recviever
Futaba Servo
its now a hybrid using the best bits off at WCE I bought:
MIP's all round
alloy rear hubs
Tianium turn buckles
Purple alli screws
ALi diff mounts
Ali shock mounts
C/F bumper mount
ver 3 spool
Not sure if the above parts are standard but they were on the one I got second hand.
If this iamge up-loads I think I amy have found an easier way to make the holes for the suspension block mod- will post soon.
CYclone tc
Exotek chassis
SP 13.5
SP esc
Hi-tec recviever
Futaba Servo
its now a hybrid using the best bits off at WCE I bought:
MIP's all round
alloy rear hubs
Tianium turn buckles
Purple alli screws
ALi diff mounts
Ali shock mounts
C/F bumper mount
ver 3 spool
Not sure if the above parts are standard but they were on the one I got second hand.
If this iamge up-loads I think I amy have found an easier way to make the holes for the suspension block mod- will post soon.
Tech Apprentice
i tried the barry baker setup last night and found the rear to be very loose , so i stood the shocks up a bit more (like u mention) and this did help a little , also put .75 washers under the pivot blocks at the back and 1.5 at the front (both of these on the rear) to create some anti-dive and this also helped too but still felt kinda loose at the rear
thanks for the help so far
maybe the problem is too much grip at the front ???
thanks for the help so far
maybe the problem is too much grip at the front ???
That new Subaru boby is anyone here running it...on the specs it stated that the design embraces the use of a spool...is there really a difference between that and say a Maza 6 speed?
Korey-
You also mentioned that you liked using battery weight plates as opposed to putting the weights on top or to outside, is it possible to balance the car putting the weights toward the inner side of the battery and lastly I dont have access to a scale so approx hw much weight do I need to add and where PICS would be best
Equip
Battery TP 5000 40C
Servo Futaba 9451
ESC LRP SPX
Motor 13.5 DUO
Korey-
You also mentioned that you liked using battery weight plates as opposed to putting the weights on top or to outside, is it possible to balance the car putting the weights toward the inner side of the battery and lastly I dont have access to a scale so approx hw much weight do I need to add and where PICS would be best
Equip
Battery TP 5000 40C
Servo Futaba 9451
ESC LRP SPX
Motor 13.5 DUO
Tech Adept
i tried the barry baker setup last night and found the rear to be very loose , so i stood the shocks up a bit more (like u mention) and this did help a little , also put .75 washers under the pivot blocks at the back and 1.5 at the front (both of these on the rear) to create some anti-dive and this also helped too but still felt kinda loose at the rear
thanks for the help so far
maybe the problem is too much grip at the front ???
thanks for the help so far
maybe the problem is too much grip at the front ???
mi
Hey all....just signed with the HB Infantry. Got my kit on the way. Got a few questions for other Team members...
If there is anyone out there running their Cyclone on a High Traction, High Bite Outdoor Asphalt Track? 13.5 SS & Open Mod. Sprayed traction compound on surface.
I am gonna need a few pointers for set-ups. I'm coming from the AE TC5R and I have never ran this kit before and I am looking for a good set-up to start with. Maybe some hints and pointers to help out as well. Does anyone have a set-up sheet I could look at?
I'm looking forward to meeting you and being a part of the HB Team. Please feel free to PM me as well.
Thanks...
Benjamin Bailey
Kansas
If there is anyone out there running their Cyclone on a High Traction, High Bite Outdoor Asphalt Track? 13.5 SS & Open Mod. Sprayed traction compound on surface.
I am gonna need a few pointers for set-ups. I'm coming from the AE TC5R and I have never ran this kit before and I am looking for a good set-up to start with. Maybe some hints and pointers to help out as well. Does anyone have a set-up sheet I could look at?
I'm looking forward to meeting you and being a part of the HB Team. Please feel free to PM me as well.
Thanks...
Benjamin Bailey
Kansas
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
hi ,
Its getting quite fustrating as i am relativily new to rc racing so i dont know if its me or the car lol , the car has never really seemed to do exactly what i want it too and doesnt feel stable enough to push it to the edge
Can anyone give me some help on what i can do , maybe a starting off point for the car so i know its not the car and just my bad driving lol , everyone at my club runs xray, schumachers etc so cant ask anyone locally
Thanks for any help in advance
Its getting quite fustrating as i am relativily new to rc racing so i dont know if its me or the car lol , the car has never really seemed to do exactly what i want it too and doesnt feel stable enough to push it to the edge
Can anyone give me some help on what i can do , maybe a starting off point for the car so i know its not the car and just my bad driving lol , everyone at my club runs xray, schumachers etc so cant ask anyone locally
Thanks for any help in advance
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...487d970568721e
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
That new Subaru boby is anyone here running it...on the specs it stated that the design embraces the use of a spool...is there really a difference between that and say a Maza 6 speed?
Korey-
You also mentioned that you liked using battery weight plates as opposed to putting the weights on top or to outside, is it possible to balance the car putting the weights toward the inner side of the battery and lastly I dont have access to a scale so approx hw much weight do I need to add and where PICS would be best
Equip
Battery TP 5000 40C
Servo Futaba 9451
ESC LRP SPX
Motor 13.5 DUO
Korey-
You also mentioned that you liked using battery weight plates as opposed to putting the weights on top or to outside, is it possible to balance the car putting the weights toward the inner side of the battery and lastly I dont have access to a scale so approx hw much weight do I need to add and where PICS would be best
Equip
Battery TP 5000 40C
Servo Futaba 9451
ESC LRP SPX
Motor 13.5 DUO
Now that our min weight rules in the US are 1420 (or 1425??? can't remember), I have had to use a different method. Hiro and I offset our battery pack and run little to no extra weight added to the car itself. We just move the battery to the outside more, then tape in place. I might be making myself like a tray/brace to see if I can get something to protect and hold the battery in the car a little more securely.
Mike at Exotek has done a really nice job making a cool lipo specific chassis for the cyclone that I hope to try sometime soon. This allows you to move the battery further out, and it also acts as a retainer with those cool stainless steel wrap around weight/retainers.
Oh almost forgot. The Subaru Type be has a little less downforce overall when compared to the mazdaspeed 6. It's a tick smoother, and keeps tire temperatures cooler when running on hot asphalt tracks. I like it for running on super high bite carpet, because it doesn't make the car so twitchy.
-Korey
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
i tried the barry baker setup last night and found the rear to be very loose , so i stood the shocks up a bit more (like u mention) and this did help a little , also put .75 washers under the pivot blocks at the back and 1.5 at the front (both of these on the rear) to create some anti-dive and this also helped too but still felt kinda loose at the rear
thanks for the help so far
maybe the problem is too much grip at the front ???
thanks for the help so far
maybe the problem is too much grip at the front ???
-Korey
Tech Apprentice
Check out this set up book by Xray. Most of it should help you out with your Cyclone. Good reference for those new to on road TC as there is sooo much to learn.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...487d970568721e
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...487d970568721e
Tech Apprentice
yeah i ran 1.2 swaybar in back (never tried without any) and i use to run 3mm on front camber link with some other setup which i got from this thread where i used pink springs all round
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
-Korey
Tech Apprentice
Sounds like Andy's 2009 IIC setup. It's usually a decent starting point. I typically rarely use the same spring all around on this car though. It usually doesn't feel quite right too me. You can also try running silver springs in the rear, or moving the bottom of the front shock out to hole #1 if you are using the Cyclone TC suspension arms. That'll help calm the car down.
-Korey
-Korey
btw ive been running 45w oil all round with 1.1mm 3 hole pistons , would this be ok for carpet ? or part of my problems ?
I've got an Exotek HBX chassis fitted and i've tried using the Hudy chassis balancing tools. I'm not convinced they let the chassis pivot freely though as the holes are not far off the diameter of the spikes.
Is there another way of accurately checking the balance fore/aft and side to side without needing 2 scales??
Thanks
Is there another way of accurately checking the balance fore/aft and side to side without needing 2 scales??
Thanks