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Old 04-06-2009, 01:07 PM   #15796
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Hi guys,

Anybody knows a way to stop the spur gear wiggling? I tried using 2 screws and adjust the wiggling by tightness of the screws, but still it isnt perfect.

Any solution?

Thanks
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Old 04-06-2009, 01:14 PM   #15797
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Hi guys,

Anybody knows a way to stop the spur gear wiggling? I tried using 2 screws and adjust the wiggling by tightness of the screws, but still it isnt perfect.

Any solution?

Thanks
Remove the carbon fibre disc from the outside where the countersink screws go through to hold on the spur, and replace them with 4 button head screws, but do them up diagonally taking your time doing up each screw in turn, don't over tighten them neither.
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Old 04-06-2009, 03:26 PM   #15798
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[QUOTE=Itchy;5648166]Hi guys,

Anybody knows a way to stop the spur gear wiggling? I tried using 2 screws and adjust the wiggling by tightness of the screws, but still it isnt perfect.

Any solution?

Thanks [/QUOT

It might be the spur gear holder, I tried use 2 set screws and fixed the problem!
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Old 04-06-2009, 04:21 PM   #15799
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Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan View Post
Remove the carbon fibre disc from the outside where the countersink screws go through to hold on the spur, and replace them with 4 button head screws, but do them up diagonally taking your time doing up each screw in turn, don't over tighten them neither.
Malc
How is the carbon gear brace causing a problem? Mine works great, the only problem I have had is using spurs that are for diff's that only two holes line up not all four.
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Old 04-06-2009, 04:58 PM   #15800
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How is the carbon gear brace causing a problem? Mine works great, the only problem I have had is using spurs that are for diff's that only two holes line up not all four.
then either get the correct spurs for the car, or drill another holes in the spur so you can put 4 screws in the adapter.
Removing the cf brace reduces rotational mass, thats why I said remove it
Malc
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Old 04-06-2009, 05:04 PM   #15801
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then either get the correct spurs for the car, or drill another holes in the spur so you can put 4 screws in the adapter.
Removing the cf brace reduces rotational mass, thats why I said remove it
Malc
+1
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Old 04-06-2009, 05:07 PM   #15802
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Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan View Post
then either get the correct spurs for the car, or drill another holes in the spur so you can put 4 screws in the adapter.
Removing the cf brace reduces rotational mass, thats why I said remove it
Malc

Well the way you posed it was as a solution to a wobbly spur gear, that made no sense to me. I know why the one spur I put on with two screws was out of true, it does however have less rotational inertia with two screws than four screws so maybe you should try taking two screws out
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Old 04-06-2009, 05:28 PM   #15803
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Thanks for the input, but when i said i used 2 screws i meant in the spur gear holder. Im pretty sure the problem is spur gear holder. I use 4 screws in the spur and no fiber disk (it's the TC chassis). The spur gear itself is firmly fixed.

I tried several ways of getting the spur gear holder properly aligned, but without sucess.

Maybe im wrong, but i suspect that wigling just cost me a major race (broken spur gear after 4 laps) and i really would like to know if there is a solution for it.

thanks in advance
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Old 04-06-2009, 05:29 PM   #15804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itchy View Post
Hi guys,

Anybody knows a way to stop the spur gear wiggling? I tried using 2 screws and adjust the wiggling by tightness of the screws, but still it isnt perfect.

Any solution?

Thanks
I had the same problem until someone told me to make sure all the set screws are tightened on the flat part of the center hidge pin...I thought I was on the center but I wasnt....Now my spur spins staight with no wiggle..
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Old 04-07-2009, 01:08 PM   #15805
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I have also noticed on almost any spur gear I use, if you tighten the screw down too tight, the spur will warp. I just tighten the screws down till they are lightly snug and use some blue threadlock on the screws. That seems to prevent the spurgear from getting all wacky.

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Old 04-07-2009, 05:09 PM   #15806
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Hi guys,

Just bought on ebay a Cyclone S hopped up with this :

- Threaded Aluminum shock Set (4),
- Hi Traction Arm Set (4),
- Purple Aluminum CVD Set (4)
- Purple Aluminum upper and Lower Bulkhead Rear,
- Aluminum Front Lower Bulkhead,
- Purple Brushless Aluminum Motor Mount and
- Purple Aluminum Brace,
- Blue Metal Spur Gear Mount,
- Metal 18 Tooth Pulley's (2) (One Way Pulley Include with shaft on the car), - 2 In One Front Spool/One way Diff,
- Rear Pro Spec race Ball diff w/ 3MM Carbide Balls,
- Purple Aluminum servo saver steering rack,
- Purple Front Rear and rear A-Arm Mount 2.0 Degree,
- Also New in package Protoform Mazda Speed 6 Body Unpainted.

- Car has never been ran

Pics :










... what do you think ? ... will be used for 13.5 brushless racing,

thanks,

Pat
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Old 04-08-2009, 02:33 PM   #15807
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Default Cyclone TC durability

Looking for some feedback on these cars. I am considering a purchase in about six few months for indoor carpet racing. What are the major pros and cons? Are they easy to tune, is the durability good, spares plentiful, etc. TIA.
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Old 04-08-2009, 02:49 PM   #15808
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From my experience which dates back to the 1st black Cyclone,the main concern of breakage is front Knuckles.I have probably broken 4 steering knuckles going on 4 years,which includes the fact I have had 2 Black Versions,1 Surikarn Version,1 Hara Version,2 Mandy Moore versions and my 2 current TC version.All cars have been thoroughly raced and maintained.With a little care,the knuckles IMO are really not an issue.Having a package or 2 front knuckles,front arms,Inner hinge pins and shock shafts should suffice.In regard to maintenance,the standard stuff is good to have but not needed to be right on hand.A main Hobbies and Speedworld raceway hobbies have pretty much everything you will need to get from them online.The car is as fast as any other car on carpet on rubber with the right setup,so you can be assured if you choose the Cyclone,it will not disappoint.
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Old 04-08-2009, 02:51 PM   #15809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tabushi View Post
Hi guys,

Just bought on ebay a Cyclone S hopped up with this :

- Threaded Aluminum shock Set (4),
- Hi Traction Arm Set (4),
- Purple Aluminum CVD Set (4)
- Purple Aluminum upper and Lower Bulkhead Rear,
- Aluminum Front Lower Bulkhead,
- Purple Brushless Aluminum Motor Mount and
- Purple Aluminum Brace,
- Blue Metal Spur Gear Mount,
- Metal 18 Tooth Pulley's (2) (One Way Pulley Include with shaft on the car), - 2 In One Front Spool/One way Diff,
- Rear Pro Spec race Ball diff w/ 3MM Carbide Balls,
- Purple Aluminum servo saver steering rack,
- Purple Front Rear and rear A-Arm Mount 2.0 Degree,
- Also New in package Protoform Mazda Speed 6 Body Unpainted.

- Car has never been ran

Pics :










... what do you think ? ... will be used for 13.5 brushless racing,

thanks,

Pat
Uhm, i wonder to buy a original TC then converted it to tub chassis rather than huge modified a S.
Even you buy TC, anyway you have to buy a bunch of option stuff to put it competitive, which it's more original than WCE, from my eyesight.
I think if somebody has S then later want to hugely modified it, that makes a lot of work and "troublesome"!
I have to say that just because the "Tub chassis 3000kv" class in my homeland is competitive, a bunch of guys are using huge modified TB03D, they are fast as hell, the winner makes race times better than some guys in "4000kv open" class.
I wonder to put a non-Tamiya car in race to challenge them, honest.

Last edited by mac853; 04-09-2009 at 09:15 AM.
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Old 04-08-2009, 03:10 PM   #15810
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hi guys,

Whats the smallest spur/largest pinion i can fit on a ver1 cyclone?

Matt
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